KIH
[Purist]
12054
BaselWorld 2015: Leroy - Two Chronometre with impressive new movements
Yes, "Leroy". Used to be "L. Leroy", but now it is just "Leroy". Olivier Muller is trying to transform the brand into what he believes is good. Let's find out.
Olivier Muller, General Manager explains the new models.
Chronometre Observatoire with L200 Caliber
Hand wound, power reserve indicator at 9 o'clock (turns red when it needs winding)
The direct impulse escapement (1 impulse/ oscillation) transmits the energy directly to the balance wheel through the escapement wheel, which acts as an impulse wheel. This direct transmission allows it to be 40-50% more efficient than a conventional Swiss lever escapement.
The balance/ hair spring is being manufactured by a factory owned by the same group as Leroy (Swiss Festina Group) and features a double terminal (one inner and one outer curve) that are being made by the watchmakers at the Leroy atelier in Le Sentier.
The choice of the traditional low frequency of 2.5Hz (18,000 vph) is due to the legacy of Chronometry and triggered also the choice of a balance wheel with a big diameter.
The potential power reserve is 150 hours but limited to 98 hours by a clicket system stopping the winding, to focus on the isochronism rather than on the longest power reserve possible.
40mm... but...
38mm is available as well. I like this "anti-trend"! Fits my wrist quite well.
..and blued hands!
Very, very nice....
This one needs winding (see the red "dot" on 9 o'clock)...
This one has red gold and 950 Palladium alloy combination case.
They have chocolate, too....
All the color combination will be shown down below.
Taken from Mr. Muller's wrist (notice "L. Leroy")
"Besancon Chronometre Certified"
40mm vs 38mm
40mm... but...
38mm is available as well. I like this "anti-trend"! Fits my wrist quite well.
..and blued hands!
Very, very nice....
This one needs winding (see the red "dot" on 9 o'clock)...
This one has red gold and 950 Palladium alloy combination case.
They have chocolate, too....
All the color combination will be shown down below.
Taken from Mr. Muller's wrist (notice "L. Leroy")
"Besancon Chronometre Certified"
40mm vs 38mm
(thickness is 10.5mm and 9.7mm respectively)
40mm
38mm
All pieces will be delivered with the Chronometre Certificate by Besancon Observatory.
Mr. Karsten Frassdorf, the Master Watchmaker.
And, now, this is "The Chronometre a Tourbillon" with caliber L100
40mm
38mm
All pieces will be delivered with the Chronometre Certificate by Besancon Observatory.
Mr. Karsten Frassdorf, the Master Watchmaker.
And, now, this is "The Chronometre a Tourbillon" with caliber L100
Tourbillon, fusee chain,
Direct-impulse escapement with self-compensating mechanism for thermal variations. Direct-impulse escapement is inspired by Pierre Le Roy with two escapement wheels, one being the impulse wheel. There is a long impulse followed by a short one every oscillation, so it's, unlike a detent escapement. a 1.5 impulses per oscillation escapement. The escapement is completed by a force escapement with rearms every fifth of a second, thus compensating the energy taken out and guaranteeing a perfect isochronism.
Direct-impulse escapement with self-compensating mechanism for thermal variations. Direct-impulse escapement is inspired by Pierre Le Roy with two escapement wheels, one being the impulse wheel. There is a long impulse followed by a short one every oscillation, so it's, unlike a detent escapement. a 1.5 impulses per oscillation escapement. The escapement is completed by a force escapement with rearms every fifth of a second, thus compensating the energy taken out and guaranteeing a perfect isochronism.
The balance wheel features a thermo compensating mechanism which will compensate the expansion of two bars made of the same alloy as the hair spring.
The whole escapement is covered by three patents.
18,000 vph
Power reserve 72 hours
953 parts (including chain parts)
The fusee chain is there to ensure a constant torque over the full duration of the power reserve and thus complementary to the constant-force of the escapement.
Guilloche hinged back cover.
The dial is superb enamel.... above the enamel is a grid cut out of gold which is inspired from the Marie Antoinette watch of 1788 from Leroy's historical collection.
Thickness 15.26mm
Red gold and white gold combo.
Again, wonderful hot enamel dial. Under the grid of the central part of the dial, you can see a painted lozenge which is the indication of the power reserve. They figured out to have another piece of enamel applied from the back which rotates from 11 to 1 when the watch is unwinding its 72 hours of power reserve.
There is blue dial version.
All white gold version.
The travel clock used by Marie Antoinette... inspired the dial for the Chronometre a Tourbillon caliber L100.
These are the all color combination for L200 (both available in 38mm and 40mm)
Chronometre a Tourbillon with caliber L100
953 parts (including chain parts)
The fusee chain is there to ensure a constant torque over the full duration of the power reserve and thus complementary to the constant-force of the escapement.
Guilloche hinged back cover.
The dial is superb enamel.... above the enamel is a grid cut out of gold which is inspired from the Marie Antoinette watch of 1788 from Leroy's historical collection.
Thickness 15.26mm
Red gold and white gold combo.
Again, wonderful hot enamel dial. Under the grid of the central part of the dial, you can see a painted lozenge which is the indication of the power reserve. They figured out to have another piece of enamel applied from the back which rotates from 11 to 1 when the watch is unwinding its 72 hours of power reserve.
There is blue dial version.
All white gold version.
The travel clock used by Marie Antoinette... inspired the dial for the Chronometre a Tourbillon caliber L100.
These are the all color combination for L200 (both available in 38mm and 40mm)
Chronometre a Tourbillon with caliber L100
Very impressive work. Can't wait to handle the production pieces. Kudos, Mr. Muller and Leroy team!
Ken
This message has been edited by KIH on 2015-04-03 09:12:56
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BaselWorld 2015: Leroy - Two Chronometre with impressive new movements
Yes, "Leroy". Used to be "L. Leroy", but now it is just "Leroy". Olivier Muller is trying to transform the brand into what he believes is good. Let's find out. Olivier Muller, General Manager explains the new models. Chronometre Observatoire with L200 Cal...
Very impressive effort on the part of this "new" brand.....
I like both of them quite a bit. The time-only is right up my alley, but I suspect the pricing will render it one to enjoy on others' wrists. Thanks for sharing these. Darren
I don't know, but you already know the price for L200....
... so, it's up to you :-) Ken
Nice return for this brand...
...and I hope it will be on the long run this time, otherwise people may lose confidence. I really liked the previous Marine Chronometer L. Leroy I tried several years ago (I would like them to use the case and dial in the future again), even if I have a ...
Couldn't agree more....
... Olivier has certainly learned a lot at Laurent Ferrier. LF's loss is Leroy's gain :-) Ken
38 mm one is very interesting, aesthetically speaking.
Now mechanically, I till have to figure out how the principle of the direct escapement is different from the one used by some other brands, such as Ulysse Nardin. It would be interesting to know the retail, too. A collection to better understand, I guess....
I am not 100% sure I understand it as well...
.. but sounds interesting and would like to see it in action in real life! Ken
We are not coy about MRSP on PuristSPro
No need for PM. We only deter discussing multi location global street prices that are out of control of the manufacturer or even unverified with regards to authenticity of merchandise and provenance. Back to the prices of the two new chronometers. Final p...
It could go either way with Festina Group
They want to establish or re-establish the brand name and credibility. They need to certify all movements at the Observatory. They have Gerald Roden overarching the CEOs of both Perrelet and LeRoy that have worked together before on brand positioning and ...
Great report Ken!
I did not know of Leroy before. These are some impressive offerings and I look forward to hearing more.
Yup!
I was not following this brand, but since they got the new CEO, who happened to be the guy who made Laurent Ferrier successful thus far, I got interested. Ken
What is the price for the Chronometer Observatoire with L200
caliber; the first watch in the article?
More information than I remember
Thanks Ken, for the report. Vey helpful to remind me that 38mm cases are coming back. The trend for back-to-normal size 38-40mm diameter gents' watches also permeates through otherhaute horlogerie brands like Chopard and Patek Philippe. I like the diamond...
I spend a looooong time at the booth :-)
... and he is an old friend, so he told me many, many background info as well. Thanks, MTF! Ken
Thanks Ken
I love the L200 with salmon dial, absolutely gorgeous, one tone or two tone case. Very good news. François
The Prices and Availability....
The Chronometre Observatoire with the caliber L200 - Available October 2015 - The prices for the Swiss market in CHF excluding Swiss VAT (8%) and EXQ Le Sentier) will be the following (prices are the same for 38mm and 40mm_ Red Gold or Bicolored Red Gold/...
The Chronometre Observatoire 38mm to me...
....has a similar appeal as the Dufour Simplicity, with a similar dial layout and beautifully finished back. The frosted finish, the enormous balance wheel, and the overall very interesting architecture really make this movement stand out. I am a fan, tho...
You are welcome!
Feel free to contact the company. CEO, Olivier Muller is a good friend of mine. Ken