small-luxury-world
[Patek]
8725
Geneva 2013: De Bethune, part 2 ... conclusions & more
DB 27 Collection
It is intended to offer a more affordable (well, with De Bethune that's a relative term ;-)) but fully fledged 'De Bethune experience',
i.e. all the chronometric and design elements are there:
In our Basel 2012 report we wrote:
"The dial is wonderfully sculptured and three-dimensional. It certainly exudes the class of vintage pocketwatches of the likes of a Breguet or Leroy. The central date hand reminds of a geographical instrument, a sextant for example."
- Self-regulating twin barrels providing 6 days of autonomy
- Silicon/white gold balance wheel with flat terminal curve
- Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system
- Silicon escape wheel
- Titanium/heavy metal oscillating weight
Most of the above are patented for De Bethune. And in this case unfortunately hidden from view:
We found this an unnecessary compromise and something that could well be a deal-breaker for many. We stick (for the
time being) to this judgement. Still, it is fantastic watch, a high tech product, ultra-light and it really comforts one's wrist:
a more adventurous strap to really come to life.
Salmon/copper and blue - wow! This proves what we said about the black one...
DB28 Skybridge
Probably the most spectacular and discussed novelty shown was the DB28 Skybridge. As a member of the DB 28 Collection it has their familiar case and the movement (caliber DB 2105; hand-wound, 6 days power reserve) is not new as well. So why is it spectacular for so many people? Well, because of the mesmerizing blued mirror polished dial with the skybridge and the white gold and diamond stars. Some may say we have seen something similar before (Only Watch 2011). That is true, but “the style” of the latest one is stronger than ever before and it feels like you can get lost looking at the dial only.
The new watch shows five innovations and registered patents from De Bethune:
· Self-regulating twin barrel
· Silicon/palladium balance wheel – balance-spring with flat end curve
· Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system
· Spherical moon-phase indication
- Silicon escape wheel
·
So let´s have a closer look …
… at the blue dial first.
The concave shape of the dial with the 12 polished steel
spherical hour markers, the upward pointing titanium bridge
and the stars (white
gold or diamonds) from the night sky brings out the depth of the dial and the strong
blue color very well.
With that kind of surrounding the moon is not that
spectacular any more, but the icing on the cake.
It´s like a piece of art, isn´t it?
As mentioned above, the case and its iconic lugs are known and nothing is wrong with that.
With all those attention on the dial, what goes on at the back side?
The
movement is not new but shows some new blue details as well. Of course
therefore a transparent back is needed
for appreciating the latter. Especially
the blue (steel?) bridge is very tempting and helps to get a fair amount of
attention
when the watch is not on the wrist.
On the wrist it feels as comfortable as all their family members with that kind of skeletonized floating lugs.
Once more a picture to show where the inspiration for some of the details could come from and because dream watches
and dream cars work well together
DB28
- the simple one without tourbillon should be
already known very well. It was awarded at the Grand Prix d´Horlogerie
de Genéve in 2011, a lot was written about
afterwards and there are also quite a few proud owners here at PuristS.
De
Bethune did more than one version e.g. DB28TiS8,
DB28TiS8 “Special Edition”, DB28RS5B,
DB28TiS5B ….
Somehow it is a (or
shall we say THE current) showcase for their (impressive amount of)
innovations.
Without further introduction here we go with the latest one:
DB28TiS8
De
Bethune presented us this limited version of the DB28TiS8 (50 pieces). At first
sight we thought this is an existing
watch. It carries (almost) all the looks
of the special edition 'Aiguille d'Or' like a case made of matte Grade 5
titanium,
the black movement plates and the mirror-polished central plate...
... or the silver dial ring. But there is a decisive difference!
... and here it is:
The
minute hand lacks the red gold insert and the allover black case and lugs
remind us to another version the “Special
Edition” with anthracite zirconium
floating lugs. Some changed details but we think it complements the watch well.
Different to most pieces from the current DB28 collection you will find a display back. The back sight is dominated by
the power reserve mechanism with - like the said Aiguille d´Or version - a red gold power reserve rack:
The remaining autonomy is indicated by a gauge on the back. But this is not the only power reserve indication...
If
you pay attention you will find a second one on the dial precisely between the
2 and the 3 o'clock indications
(note the tiny pointer!). This time the indicators
(up & down) are both in red – surprisingly.
Like
all DB28 watches also this one has floating lugs who's end pieces carry the
characteristic ogival lugs
(that's how they used to call them, now they use the
word 'conical', but we like to older designation better
- its more special - as
are the watches!), here in matt anthracite zirconium:
The case itself has clear lines with the 'balcony' for the moon phase ball as an accent.
Fitting to the materials chosen the watch makes a light appearance on the wrist.
De Bethune's 30" tourbillon with silicium balance below polished steel movement plates.
This watch carries a solid gold back with a power reserve display.
We can only describe its wrist presence as: 'precious'!
better than in the DB27, partly because the watch itself has much more sui generis tension and 'drama'.
The tourbillon cut-out has a bezel with a seconds scale, and the tourbillon cage has a seconds hand as well.
One might think it is the same as with the DB28TiS8 above. A closer inspection indeed tells us that this is not the case:
the flat lever beneath the hand is missing, and ...
While we are at this: The manufacture must have spent considerable time on the dial design. We loved how different
materials, surface treatments, colours and finishes create an eye-catching event.
Geneva 2013: De Bethune, part 2 ... conclusions & more
Conclusions
Thanks for the dreamteam's conclusions
Daydreaming ... dopamine ... lots of curves ...
Debethune-Resonique?
Thanks for that fireworks of superbe pics...
