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PIAGET Altiplano Saga: Part 2 – GoldenEye – Automatic 12P movement

PIAGET Altiplano Saga: Part 2  – GoldenEye  – Automatic 12P movement

By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

Automatic 12P (1960) and Manual 9P (1957) movements

Previously, in 'PIAGET Altiplano Saga: Part 1', click here , we covered the iconic manual winding 9P movement (above right).

1962 Advertisement
Piaget followed up on their early ultra-thin achievements with the introduction of the automatic 12P movement in 1960; at only 2.3mm high, it was the thinnest automatic movement of that Age.

The movement was 28.1mm x 2.30mm and ran at 19,800 A/h rate with a 40 hour autonomy. The 'ex-centred' 24K golden rotor or oscillating weight like a 'GoldenEye ' was the key component. The extra wide bridge for the oscillating weight ensured robustness despite the thinness of the movement.

This is also the movement that "Grail Watch" seekers purport to have powered a few mythical Automatic Piaget Polo watches even though the official launch of Piaget Polo watches was with quartz 7P movements.

Calibre 12P specifications:

37 hours power reserve
Frequency: 19'800 vph
Number of jewels: 30
Ø: 28,1mm
Thickness: 2.3mm for the basic model; 2.8mm for the 12PC movement (with calendar)
Ex-centred rotor in 24K gold
Functions: hour-minute
Vertical Côtes de Genève decoration

For over half a century, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget re-wrote records and filled the finest pages in the history of ultra-thin movements. In 1957, Piaget caused a sensation by developing Calibre 9P, the world’s thinnest mechanical hand-wound movement (2 mm). In 1959, Valentin Piaget filed a patent for Calibre 12P (2.3 mm), which was marketed in 1960 and set a new record for ultra-flat self-winding watches.

12P Ref 12103 white dial

Within an 18-carat yellow gold case, the Manufacture Piaget 12P ultra-thin mechanical self-winding movement purred. The movement dimension of only 12 ’’’ ( 28.1 mm diameter) and 2.30 mm height had set the world record of its day for thin watches. The 19 jewels ensured a steadfast 19,800 vph beat and approximately 40-hour power reserve derived from the 24-carat yellow gold oscillating weight.

Even in a closed case, the Piaget finishing was still impressive with: vertical Côtes de Genève, circular-grained plate, bevelled bridges, and that mesmerising gold rotor.  Even Piaget admit that the design was driven by the thin form and functional reliability rather than aesthetics. The wide bridges helped to resist warping but were not too elegant.  Then again, in those days, clients were more impressed by substance than 'flashy display backs'; performance rather than internal decoration. The lubricants of the day were not resistant to UV light and it served no purpose to be indiscrete with a 'see-through' case.

In any case (sic), Piaget focused on elegance and technical prowess to build their reputation at the pinnacle of the ultra-thin pyramid.

12P Ref 12103-OJ yellow gold dial

12P Ref 12406 - laque

12P Ref 12406 black dial

12P Yellow Gold case/bracelet same pattern dial

12P White Gold case/bracelet and Ruby dial

Automatic Calendar 12PC movement models

With the added date display, the 12PC movement at 2.8 mm height was a tad thicker than the 12P.

12PC Ref 13103

12PC Ref 13401 A6

12PC Yellow/White/Pink Gold case/bracelet and dial

Building on their historical legitimacy, the Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Piaget continued to cultivate its rich know-how in the highly technical and rarefied atmosphere of ultra-thin movements. More recently, these included the manual-wind 430P (2.1 mm thick), 438P and 450P movements used in the Altiplano models (see photo below).

2009 Advertisement

The future.......

Its been more than a decade since the iconic Calibre 12P was discontinued.

The modern automatic 540P, 800P and 850P movements are thin, but still not 'ultraflat' enough to join the Altiplano Saga.

The 'PIAGET Altiplano Saga' series continues next month with Part 3........

PIAGET Altiplano Saga series: