Vacheron Constantin

Quick-Look Review: Vacheron Constantin - Historiques Ultra-fine 1968

 

For the Historiques collection Vacheron Constantin delves into its heritage for inspiration in creating watches for today. For some of the watches in the Historiques collection, the influence comes from design (American 1921, Toledo 1952, and Aronde 1954), and at other times, from technical excellence (Chronometer 1907, Ultra-fine 1955, and Ultra-fine 1968.). The 1955 and 1968 were introduced at SIHH in January, 2010 and have been slowly trickling out of Vacheron Constantin’s workshops since late last year.

In this era when the oversized watch reigns supreme, and even Vacheron Constantin’s classic dress watch, the Patrimony Contemporaine, is 40 mm in diameter, it feels like a bold move to bring out a pair of ultra-slim, elegant dress watches. While the 36 mm of the 1955 is large compared with the original 31 mm, and with a similar increase of the 1968 to its current 35 mm square, they can only be described as understated in this day and age. I will focus on the Historiques Ultra-fine 1968 today.

The precedent for the Historiques 1968, reference 43043, is the reference 7614, which debuted in 1968.


The 35.2 mm case is crafted in 18K 4N rose gold, an alloy with a hue that is between the 3N yellow and the 5N pink gold that Vacheron Constantin employs for most of the bulk of its non-white metal watches.


The case back is held down by 8 screws and the watch has 30 meters of water resitance. While 35.2 mm is not large by contemporary standards, it wears larger in a square case than it would if it were a 35 mm round case. It has almost the same presence as a 38-40 mm round watch.


The glossy black crocodile strap with rolled edge enhances the elegance of this timepiece.


And on the wrist it sits quite nicely, don’t you think?


The subtle tiered step of the lug follows the line of the main body of the case and frames the bezel.


The flanks of the case curve in delicately from bezel to case back.

The silvered dial is given a vertical satin grain finsih and the hour markers are applied in a way that outlines a circle, a beautiful counterpoint to the square frame. The baton hands reinforce the minimalism of the dial. I applaud Vacheron Constantin’s decision not to print “AUTOMATIC” on the dial.


What makes the watch so thin - the case is only 5.5 mm thick - is the use of the legendary caliber 1120, which Vacheron Constantin debuted in 1968. This ultrathin full-rotor automatic winding watch is all of 2.45 mm thick. It is a gorgeous movement, one of my all-time favorites, and in some respects it is a shame that there is no sapphire case back though which one can admire the movement.



The Ultra-fine1968 is another compelling addition to the Historiques collection. While form watches will never be as popular as round watches, I do suggest that you try this particular one on your wrist. The Historiques Ultra-fine 1968 is a watch that is meant to reveal its subtle charms while being worn.

Bill