Horological Meandering

Echi
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Hi Andrew, I basically have the same approach...

and it really helps that I don't have a lot of cash to play around with as the choosing becomes really more refined.

1)  Speedmaster Professional - it's the regular production moonwatch for me... for EVERYTHING chronograph.  i understand that there are a ton of more sophisticated executions out there but the dial simplicity and the (what i would assume) robustness of the movement becomes a key reference for me.  give me a choice between an iwc auto port and a regular production moonwatch and i would go with the latter anytime... even with a rolex daytona.  From an Omega standpoint, I've stopped really looking at their other offerings because I think that this is it from that company.  If they reinstated the 60's connies, I might change my mind

the only weak spot for me with the design of the watch is the bracelet because my key reference bracelet will ALWAYS be the Rolex Oyster.  of course, i couldn't say that the oyster look will work well with a speedy but in terms of bracelets, it's like peas in a pod for the Rolex sub or the Explo series such that you can ALMOST NOT imagine these watches with anything other than an oyster bracelet.  With the speedy, it becomes a two-edged sword whereby the case design and dial lends itself EASILY to variation.  you don't see a whole lot of guys doing strap changes on a rolex... at least for the new ones but with the speedy, from NATOs to leather straps.

2)  Rolex Sub no date - for EVERYTHING dive watch.  ok, this one, i'm still in the process of digesting.  personally, i like the Omega SMP300 but you can't quite say that the wave dial is a design reference.  The bezel design, most probably a better looking bezel than the current sub (my opinion, of course) although it doesn't twist as nicely as some of my other dive watches.  But it's not quite there as the moonwatch such that I'd ditch my SMP300 for a sub... not just yet but it surely is on my list.  i think the older subs would be a better reference if we were to dissect this particular class.

3)  JLC Reverso (GT case) / Patek Calatrava (40mm) .. (time only) - for ELEGANCE.  The sizes work best for the average wrist.  I've tried on the 34mm JLC MUT and while it is a VERY elegantly executed watch, I find the Reverso to be more ... i don't know ... comfortable in a sense.  Of course, I understand that a 1931 reverso might be more "reference" but with today's changing average size, it might be the GT.  I LOVE these two watches.

4)  Rolex Exp2 white dial - for WHITE DIAL sports watches.  This is what I compare the rest of the white dialled world of sports watches to... Unfortunately cleaner than a Daytona (I'd love to have a cleaner looking modern day Daytona).  Black is easy.  White... another beast altogether, imo, and nobody does it better than the Exp2.  But then again, I do have issues with a no quick set option for the date.  I understand GMTs like the ones from UN are easier to adjust.  So it is not a surprise that after much negative feedback about the white dial milgauss from my friends, that i am still absolutely in love with it.  It takes off nicely as a white dial sports watch.  takes a bit getting used to with the orange markers but it will work well nicely with my Exp2.

5)  Pam0 - for anything BIG.  Like I always think, one cannot upsize elegance in a straightforward manner.  But Panerai proportions had "big" in mind such that it really works well from bezel width relative to font relative dial etc.  I've tried on a Pam for my small wrist and it works perfectly... which I think should be a criteria for doing big... how does it fare with smaller wrists?  the range for the Pam in terms of wrist sizes is pretty huge versus, say, an AP ROO where the lugs don't droop as close for smaller wrists versus the Pam.  Of course, there are limits (that's why they came out with 40mm Pams I suppose) but they certainly are more flexible than most where wrist size is concerned if you want the BIG look.

So, I need to get these watches first before I can do fancy.  They're like pre-school type watches.  Basics first before hitting elementary school.

All this my opinion from 5 years of watch lurking and with not a whole lot of history or technical background to defend my list with : )

I can't go further yet past these ones.  I'm kinda slow : )

Great reference examples, Andrew!