Ladies
Fabergé - Fabergé Lady Levity. Fabergé is on the rise and focusses its excellence on women's complications. But a difficult choice in amongst rather weak competitors!
Ladies’ High-Mech
Louis Vuitton - Tambour Color Blossom Spin Time. Overall fascinating in design, technology, execution.
Men’s
Grönefeld - 1941 Remontoire. I can only reinforce Brandon. Lovely!
Chronograph
Louis Moinet - Memoris Red Eclipse. I like their recent very clear - albeit slightly baroque - strategy. Nice, emotional, exuberant, a highlight in a weak field...
Tourbillon
De Bethune - DB28 Kind of Blue TourbillonDe Bethune.
Let me again quote Brandon: "I feel like the Ferdinand Berthoud would have been more appropriately
classified here, in which case it would be my favorite. But I think the
DeBethune stands out well from its listed peers." The latter is no incidence. Quite boring entrants overall. Double escapements with some connection between (direct or via resonance) seems to be a focus. With the one even a few years old...
Calendar
Andreas Strehler - Lune Exacte. One has to see it in the metal to properly appreciate this timepiece. And at best have Mr Strehler at hand to explain every detail!
Travel Time
Fabergé - Fabergé Visionnaire DTZ. Again Fabergé. Jean-Marc Wiederrecht delivers again. the watch does not look as complicated but its more than meets the eye!
Mechanical Exception
Bulgari - Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, Chanel - La Montre Monsieur de Chanel or Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud - Chronomètre Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1. Tough choices: an ultra-thin minute repeater, Chanel's first in-house movement developed by Romain Gauthier or the new chronometric powerhorse from Chopard. I cannot decide!
“Petite Aiguille”
Hermès - Slim d'Hermès. Like Brandon: "Love the typography and a great Vaucher movement." Nothing more to say! Runners up: Seiko - Presage Automatic Chronograph Enamel Dial as well as the Zenith - Pilot Ton-Up.
Sports
(Sorry, I'd pass - nothing exceptional here!)
Jewellery
Voutilainen - Scintillante. No word needed!
Artistic Crafts
Piaget - Protocole XXL "Secrets & Lights" Venice Micro-Mosaic. Covering dial and case in the same enamelling techniwue is a feat.
Overall, I found the pre-selection to be quite uninspired and have the suspicion that some sponsors needed be served, or at otherwise presssure was issued. This is a Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève 2016that is just another watch event in the year, nothing to look particularly forward. to.
Nevertheless - good luck to the contestants!
Magnus