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Horological Meandering

placement and proportions

 

Good question Andrew.  I think subdial placement is one of the more subtle, yet important, design problems to solve.  Agree with the the note above that unless the movement and the case are matched (and who does this better than Lange?) you end up with dials too close to the center (small movement), or too close to the outer edge (typical problem with Unitas).

I like Nomos' movements and execution quite a bit, but I'm concerned that they hitched their future to the wrong star in choosing the Peseux 7001 as the layout for their movements.  At 10.5 ligne, this is simply too small to locate the seconds dial properly in the watch sizes desirable today (>36 mm).  Looking at their models, you can see they are trying to design their way around this, with dates below the seconds dial, and subdials butted up against the central hands to make the subdial look larger, but ultimately I think the ebauche is not ideal.

Why I love my Dornbluth:





Perfect seconds dial placement.  Evenly balanced between both the bottom edge of the hour hand boss and the railroad track, and also the center of the hands and the edge of the visible dial.  Slightly oversized, but a fitting nod to the oversized seconds of the marine chronometers.  Acknowedged that the 7 and the 5 are "nibbled", but frankly, eaten numbers never bothered me aesthetically.

Tom

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