Horological Meandering

It's a quiet Watches and Wonders 2024 this year. And one thing I was hoping and predicting to see was more clasps with fine adjustment. So far, I'm disappointed, as I'm not seeing a lot of these clasps and bracelets with fine adjustments. Why does a clasp...  

Nice post and photos. I couldn't agree more! I had a beautiful Bvlgari Octo Finissimo that I had to let go simply because I could not get the perfect fit. Equally, I nearly bought the Chopard Alpine Eagle but did not for the same reason-it's infuriating!

It's a luxury object that's supposed to be a perfect work of art. I just think this fine adjustment for the bracelet would be an important part of perfecting a product.

The current Vacheron Overseas does have a very good fine adjustment on the metal bracelet. The leather and rubber strap clasp for it don’t need it in my opinion. The Octo Finissimo metal bracelet doesn‘t have one because of its construction, which has bee... 

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas models are hard to come by and the photos online didn't show the fine adjustment. But now that you mentioned it, I do recall now that I read a press release about it around two years ago or so, mentioning that the bracelet... 

Regarding the Overseas: Here‘s two quick pictures showing the bracelet with the extensions on both sides pushed in and pulled out. Regarding the Octo Finissimo: Here‘s two quick pictures showing how the clasp is actually integrated into the links of the b...  

You are fine! Thank you for the pictures. The Vacheron Contantin photo is a nice reminder of how the system works! The Bulgari is a nice watch! I have some too!

I can understand your reasoning, but it frustrates me that if there is no variability in the clasp, at least offer a half link/different sized links which only a few manufacturers do. Bvlgari do not as far as I am aware, and even though the links are smal... 

Especially for design lead brands like Cartier and Bulgari, the desire to create a certain look may be the higher priority. But still, the resources these large companies have are vast. And many brands spend more time and money making patented exclusive s... 

Yes, that's another thing about these micro adjustments! With the micro adjustment, one generally doesn't need a small 0.5 link or the large 1.5 link.

However, when looking at Formex and Longines Spirit (both powered by dexel) and Parmigiani for the Tonda 1950 in steel I'm not sure if the cost argument still holds water. Some of the major brands just don't seem to care too much when it comes to micro ad...  

The problem, which I didn't make very clear, in my article (for keeping it short, otherwise, it quickly gets very long) is that these higher end watches often make a lot of watches in gold. And once you have a part made in gold, the costs go up significan... 

But I still think that it's a good thing to have.

I didn't use one for a very long time. My first watch, a watch I wore nearly every day for nearly 10 years, didn't have it. Sometimes, on a warm day, the watch would be noticeably tight, and sometimes on a cold morning, the watch would be too loose. I'm c... 

Why they should pay R&D for a simple buckle?

New movements that are easier to service, cheaper to produce, more accurate, and using the latest silicon technologies that reduce servicing requirements is a priority for the brands. Not new buckles. But some of these new movements are already put into w... 

..my wirst size changes. So very much a big yes i use the clasp adjustments. Since i tend to change bands, you can also choose the pinbuckle / clasp, which also affects the overall fitment. Of course when all else fails, just add another hole in the leath... 

At home, I have tools to adjust my strap. If I really need to. This rarely happens. But when I'm traveling to Singapore, Taipei, or any of these "warm" countries where one goes from air conditioned coolness, to hot outdoors and back and forth all the time...  

Thanks for the clarifying post on the translation of R&D from steel to gold and the sheer material cost in gold does put and added factor in CoGS. I would also like to point to material properties too wrt steel vs. gold, so another point for a brand that ... 

I was really impressed with the A. Lange & Sohne Odysseus fine adjustment on its bracelet. Being able to adjust while you're still wearing it is peak usability design to me. Only just recently discovered that the Glashütte Original Seventies Chronogra... 

It actually increases the costs of manufacturing significantly to make a summer extension system. Depending on the design of the system. For example, the latest Patek Philippe system on the 5811 is a very complex high precision mechanism with a lot of par... 

The problem is that the average consumer isn't asking for them. Sure, here on WatchProSite, we definitely are all expecting them - especially on expensive watches. But the average consumer asks for three things; automatic, date, and water resistance of ar... 

While I somehow solved the issue with my PP 5711, 52701R and Royal Oak 15202 by installing a 1 1/2 link, I still have an issue with the Day Date 40. For this nearly perfect bracelet I need a fine adjustment, or at least a slightly wider link. Normally, du... 

The number one problem is that the average customer isn't asking for this. This Patek Philippe Nautilus system is super complex and difficult to manufacture. Some would also say it doesn't look very nice aesthetically when the system is extended. This FP ...  

PP micro adjusting is very similar to the VC Overseas one. I always considered Overseas bracelets to be superior to the one of Nautilus, even the older versions. Besides, they come with half a link, exactly for the reason of tge perfect fit.