Independents

I am in London for a few days to attend a Patek event and took the opportunity this morning to drop by at the newly launched Philips' watch boutique called Perpetual based at 30 Berkeley Square. I had the pleasure to meet James Marks, a renowned specialis...  

The Series 2 is just amazing. The amount of detail and work on both sides of the watch is not something you get every where is is very special. The thickness is surprising though, especially for a manual winding watch. How did it feel on the wrist. I real... 

I think with the MB&F, I half expect it to bump into things as it is 16mm plus high so I would be extra careful when wearing it eg only to purists GTGs! But to bump the RW Smith into something would be heart breaking - at least with the MB&F, it i... 

Roger stressed that he would like to make a robust product but I noticed that Kari Voutilainen also offers a three dimensional view of his movement in a case 2 to 3mm slimmer. Yes 13mm will still fit under a shirt cuff but part of the elegance of watch to... 

Yes, the thickness is a concern, but I think you will quickly become used to it for yours (which is coming soon, right?). Also, I don't think the KV is so much thinner! It's 12mm, right? These are gentleman's watches, after all, not dress watches.

that the RW Smith also has power reserve indicator. I think the Vingt 8 is 11mm but I might be wrong. I know Kari would make a 37mm Vingt 8 with a height of just over 10mm. And thank you for your reply. I think I will 'get used' to the thickness. I just f... 

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1. The Lang and Heyne Friedrich III -superb movement, gorgeous dial, accurate beyond belief and light in stainless steel 2. The Moritz Grossmann Atum 37 - the piece unique that I am privileged to own is a class act in simplicity and accracy. 3. The Patek ...  

The 3 watches I showed you are the core of my collection, watches that I really hope will be keepers. The RW Smith will probably be the leader of the pack!!

I must confess I missed that interview. I have little doubt that Roger decided on the 13mm case height after taking all factors into account.

...is my only issue with RS watches. The quirky, hand-finished look is a plus in my book.

It does not help that all my other watches are quite slim relatively but I still look forward to its arrival because it is quite a league up from anything else I own. Thank you for your reply.

The RWS is a real dream watch , love every angle of it . For me the thickness would not be a problem . The MB&F is also a gorgeous watch with a stunning green dial . Would love to add a LM in the near future but then a LM101 because its 40mm and a bit mor... 

but the height of the watch remains the same making the curve more pronounced on the 40mm case than on the 44mm case of LM1. I have seen you wear your Urwerk very well on your wrist which makes me think that the LM1 would also suit your wrist fine due the... 

you have exquisite taste!

the Roger Smith series 2 before. No doubt it wears high but it has a very elegant presence. The height doesn't make the watch less elegant but it adds a very charming vibe to it. Also, the watch height makes it more prominent on our wrist and I find that ... 

There is little doubt that the RW Smith is something quite special. I doubt if it will be my daily watch and will be reserved for special occasions so the height should not be too much of a bother.

I think the RS looks amazing. I does sit proud of the wrist in your picture. I have never tried, but I don’t think it is an everyday watch. The way I’m thinking about it: It is something exquisite for when you are in the mood for something special. So in ... 

I am afraid I did not ask to try on the Journe and only focused on these two watches. I think owning a RW Smith will give me a level of self satisfaction I am not accustomed to. The brand has an aura like no other (apart from Daniels). Not many brands can... 

It is it’s own league. OMG no pic of the FPJ - Blasphemy!!

so I did not even ask to see the watch. James Marks of Philips was wearing a FP Journe Octa himself and mentioned the exceptionally high cost of servicing so I thought just as well that I did not try on the tourbillon even though I must confess that it di... 

I understand. Tourbillon are not my first choice either. I do think though, that if was I to ever own one, FPJ would be one of the best candidates

the Jean Daniel Nicolas which for me is the best looking tourbillon around! For me anyway ...  

By the old master himself.... I really like this one as well. So pure and simple - yet original... ...  

Very nice but may I politely ask what is the after sales service like for this brand? I always ask when a small brand makes a complicated gem.

I know I am boringly practical here instead of simply admiring the craftsmanship and the design of the watch!

that if you can afford the watch, you can afford the servicing cost just like buying an expensive car but I like the idea of a good reliable watch with a nice finely movement but with not extortionate servicing costs! Yes, I know I am asking for a lot

What is 'H'?!

I was just stating common knowledge. My experience is that at least one other independent watchmaker does not charge for servicing his watches- I won't say who. So not totally uncommon. Yet another wonderful service that can be gotten from the índependant... 

and I salute any brand that offers it. To have such peace of mind when buying a timepiece is quite a reassurance.

"Der Service gilt lebenslang..."

is only for his German clients?!

I had service several Resonance and Tourbillons over the years and they all range around $2500-$3500. Very similar to Patek and Lange.

had spent USD2k plus on a service which seems steep for a non complicated watch. That led me to believe that a service on a Resonance or Tourbillon would easily be double that figure.

$2k is not expensive. Wait till you have to service your RM..haha. A Patek time only is also about the same price, depending what need to be done. I believe I paid about $3500-$3900 for my Journe tourbillon but even at $4-$5000, I think it is worth it con... 

For me the after sales service is exceedingly important when buying a watch. Dufour is held at the highest regard by many but a problematic watch irrespective of how beautifully finished the movement is would be a watch I would not be able to keep for lon... 

Service is not really something the brands make money from. I spent a day at Pateks service center in Munich. We got to talk directly to the watch makers without interruption. One guy, I spent half an hour with was making a regular service on a PC. This w... 

Yes I too admire the dedication of watchmakers who look after the watches years after the watch has been made. That to me is part and parcel of a great brand and a great watch. I too adopt a similar ethos to you in that I do only keep a small and select c... 

In fact I think of myself more as a watch enthusiast than a collector. A collector, in the true sense, is more concerned about fulfilling and completing a certain theme. Minimalist is not the correct term, but I feel owning a lot of stuff I don’t use weig... 

But I can total relate to you when it comes to watches because I too am arguably more of an enthusiast than a collector (owning 6 watches does not allow me a collector status! ) And like you, I too would like to own what I feel are the best watches for me... 

A lot! It’s my curse but I can only choose to live with it so it is bearable. But it can also be a great driver.

cursed me too Christian and yes I agree it can be a great driver but it also means we will seldom settle due to our quest for the best! I am massaging our egos here!

And lets not speak about how difficult it can make life for oneself sometimes!! ;-) perfect is not good enough. I can completely see the sense in buying that RWS. I am having the exact same thought sometimes! It’s a summit in this category.🏔

Any other brand producing a dress watch with a 13mm thickness would be frowned upon but here we are talking about not just any other brand! And as far as that 'difficult' life is concerned, I think I have got used to it and would not have it any other way... 

But of course the perfectionist will immediately spot the “problem” haha. It will be amazing, Sham. Hope you will let me see it one day. I’m also getting to an acceptance. Changing who we are, is not an option. Only strive to make the best of it.

and then you can tell me everything that is wrong with it compared to a FP Journe!

If you are still hanging out in London we could at least kill some of the waiting time with a beer and some watch ogling

I always assumed it was in Denmark but I may have been wrong. I fly off on Friday and have the Patek travel time event to attend on that day too. But I am due back in December or January and hope to meet Mahesh, Nico and Mike in Paris It would be great to... 

Lets make it happen some time. We can try when youre back in January

I shall let you know my plans as soon as I have arranged them. Thank you so much!!

I am at the mercy of Patek and Cartier for my December/January trip. The have both promised me watches in December but I shall believe it when it happens.

you just let me know and we try to make it happen

would be ultimately mine Christian!

No message body

I would be in the company of all the big shots!! For me it is all dependent on when the Cartier Crash and the Patek 5212 will be ready for collection.

I will try to make it best, my friend

Or yours is 40mm? I have only worn the 38mm version.

Apparently there was one last rose gold case in 38mm which Roger kindly reserved for me before he went down the 40mm route. I thought I heard somewhere that he will be also offering the 38mm case in the future once again.

I am used to anything below 39mm. Once it hits 39mm and above, I will start to resist it. Personally, RM is a better watch than a Dufour Simplicty... much better but not as great as Dufour Duality. In term of exquisiteness, it also beats Kari's pieces or ... 

I too like to have a watch which In know I will be wearing often. I think with watches, size is one thing but I have also discovered lugs are mighty important. You just try any Breguet with straight lugs and you will understand my constant predicament wit...  

It has to be below 39mm. It is a rule to save me from this addiction :P 5212 looks soooooo NICE... what have you done to me???

The 5212 looks great in photos but when I set eyes on it and tried it on, it was so much better as if that was possible. I dare say that it will be one of those watches that will stay with me forever. Yep, it is that good!

it fits my wrist very nicely too. Mainly due to the smaller dial. The watch looks nice but what stops me is the WG monobloc metal. As for 5212, the week calendar is confusing for me as I'm not accustomed to such calculation. For those who are familiar, it... 

so the usefulness of the week number for me is probably minimal at best. It is more relevant to doing business in Europe where I was quite familiar with customers placing an order in a particular week number to be delivered a few week numbers down the lin... 

it is close to a Rolex in thickness which isn’t bad to slide under a cuff! on the other hand, MB&F is a tad bigger. Well done with RM, it is a beauty to look at ! Best, Mahesh.,

I guess one expects a sports watch like Rolex to generally be thicker than a dress watch but yes, the RW Smith will fit under most cuffs. I guess I am just a little concerned due to the high value of this watch of the possibility of it making contact with... 

Watches are an emotional purchase and a lot of romanticism drives our decisions. He used to make the case by hand using 3 bands of metal which may explain the historical thickness...hard to beat KV on the reverse of a watch....

I think the English style of movement finishing is quite different from the Swiss style. Some prefer the former and others the latter. How would you compare Kari's movement finishing for example to Rexhep Rexhepi's Chronometre Contemporain which is perhap... 

This is the Charles Frodsham Double Impulse watch with a very unpocket watch finish. The movement to me is quite spectacular and I dare not say Kari's is visually better. Photo borrowed from and compliments to SJX. ...  

I’m visiting london In 2 weeks and CAN’T wait to visit philips. That RSE piece is 2 die for 😀 Amazing

There will be more pieces for you to ogle at while you are there but for me it was the best watch shop that I had visited in London.

I’ll also try to go and see the chaos at acollectedman. Although there’s always a chance they may not let me in 😀

Ans Silas Walton is very knowlegeable too!

Thanks for the report and pictures. Had no idea they were opening up a boutique at the Phillips London location (I last visited there for the independent watches exhibition last year). Will definitely stop by and check it out next time I'm in London.

they will have a selection of 20 to 30 watches of a varying price range so there will be something for everyone!