Mark in Paris[Purist]
10488
Only five is tough, especially when Indies are concerned :)
I would think that, even more than with traditional watchmakers, it depends on the watch itself. For instance I won't put MB&F in the 5 but I would put the Legacy Machine Perpetual in the top most interesting Independent watches today.
So I would take Voutilainen for sure.
It seems that R. Smith is interesting though I never saw one.
I would put P. Dufour for the trend he initiated in watchmaking but not for the watches necessarily (btw I think KV does the same level of finishing and a little more in terms of pieces worked in the caliber imho).
I like many of them like L. Ballouard for his talent in bringing new technical displays and aesthetical designs.
The Gronefeld brothers are very talented watchmakers, though I'm not keen on the aesthetics, simple matter of subjective taste here for me.
Greubel Forsey is fantastic, in terms of finishing, or technical mastery and development. They are now as you said held by a group for 20% but they are still working as they were and have the independant spirit in terms of talent imho.
Urwerk has done a very nice thing with their satellites (especially considering they have to withstand everyday life's shocks) but would not put them in the top5.
One other I think is part from this: Richard Mille. Not the same image than the usual indies, so that could be eliminatory but they have the skill technically and in terms of "modern" finishing as they are absolutely flawless, he entered the market alone in 2001 with something he loved (car racing) and took a lot of risks to develop something he made no compromise about, they are incredibly comfortable (not that it is really watchmaking related but it is something watchmakers forget too much taking into account I think).
So, if I had to choose for myself only (and not historical significance etc...) I would say (not in that order necessarily, except KV):
- Voutilainen: spirit, technical developement, finishing;
- Greubel Forsey: idem values than above;
- Ballouard: huge talent and creativity in technical development and aesthetical design, he is small but has 100% the Independent spirit, in every way;
- Gronefeld: talented in technical design and complication choices.
- I use a joker: DeBethune, R.Jerome, Urwerk, MB&F, Ph.Dufour, I can't not mention FPJ though I have a few objections against it.
...and in fact, I realize while typing this answer that it is not possible for me to give a top 5 ranking for indies without mentionning on what level we select them. Indeed they are so many going in different ways and still being very valuable indies (especially if we start considering the budgets...).
If one wonders where to go, he must study everyone of them and find the right watch/budget/finishing level/technical complication and originality etc...
Do you have something in mind as a new purchase?
Cheers, Mark