SJX
[Purist]
8540
A good question
I've always written that JLC's finishing is a bit industrial and lacking in
the fine quality of the top end volume makers like Lange or the independents
like Dufour or Voutilainen. The Grande Sonnerie shown, a prototype
admittedly, was similarly finished. Excellent finish but not superlative.
For example the anglage of the bridges just didn't possess the sharply
defined lines and mirror finish that distinguishes the finishing of Lange or
the top end Pateks.
That being said, JLC has never been about finishing for me, although the
company itself has been vocal in promoting its high-end hand finishing. JLC
to me is an ambitious company, perhaps overly so, and I often get the
impression finishing is not at the top of the agenda, rather it wants to
produce remarkably impressive watches with an reliance to a kind of
pseudo-scientific empirical process of testing that isn't widely seen (or at
least publicised) in other companies. JLC relies on various electronic
thingamajigs to measure the output of its striking watches while Patek with
its new seal merely relies on a member of the Stern family. Different
strokes for different folks.
- SJX
Launch of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret in Singapore
Last week, Jerome Lambert, CEO of JLC, was in Singapore to launch the amazing Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret. The launch was held at Capella Singapore, a 6-star resort on Sentosa Island. Continued below... This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-10-03 06...
Part I: Jerome Lambert's presentation
It is not often that a CEO flies across the world to explain a new watch, but this is what Jerome Lambert did and he watch in question is certainly worthy of his time. Jerome took the assembled group through the new Grande Sonnerie, focusing on how compli...
Part II: Grande Sonnerie demonstration
After Jerome's presentation, the group was led to the next room. Joel, a watchmaker from Le Sentier was on hand to demonstrate the movement which could be seen through a microscope. No working watch was available, and the movement shown was amplified by a...
Part III: Hybris Mechanica 55 Coffret
Just as impressive is the box. Made by Dottling, a German safemaker, it weighs about 1200 kg (1.2 tonnes). But what is most interesting about the box is not its weigh or acres of leather and suede but the built-in sound system that picks up and amplifies ...
Part IV: Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie (warning: many photos)
The Grande Sonnerie is a handsome watch (not something I'd say about all JLC high complications) and shares design traits with the Duometre a Chronograph. Both watches are from the same family and share twin barrel architecture, what JLC terms dual wing, ...
wonderful pictures. what about the buckle?
smashing pictures. I have heard that the hotel was quite a place too. It seems that the buckle of the hybris mecanica is also very special. do you have a picture of that detail?
I forgot to photograph the buckle but...
it is overly complex in my opinion. It's a fairly elaborate piece of work by Roland Iten. The clasp itself is the usual double fold 'butterfly' style but the buckle that secures to the strap is adjustable. - SJX
thx...
I think tht this is a buckle that one can (or could) adjust without having to remove the watch from the strap, no? Anyway, it seems that the only thing that has not been speciffically engineered for the hybris mecanica 55 is ... a genetically modified all...
............
one of the MOST beautiful watches I have seen in my life. Could stare at it for hours, of course, with the appropriate loupe. Pure entertainment for the senses. The movement give me thrills, would love to know how to do that. Good chemistry for my brain. ...
Part V: Hybris Mechanica à Gyrotourbillon
I never liked the original Gyrotourbillon, I found the dial undistinguished and the case thick and inelegant. But this version of the Gyrotourbillon far more attractive; the open dial gives the watch a lot more character. It still suffers from the badly d...
Part VI: Hybris Mechanica à Triptyque
The Reverso Grande Complication à Triptyque is an enormous watch and much too large for most wrists which is unfortunate because it is quite remarkable. I especially like the innovative perpetual calendar mechanism in the carriage which is activated once ...
Amazing watches from JLC!
Did Jerome Lambert demonstrate the sound from the Grand Sonnerie? An amazingly complicated piece to behold. Thanks for the report, this beats looking at tiny prototype photos and artist renderings on watch magazines.
Only an uncased movement was demonstrated
the cased pieces didn't work. I don't know what the final product will sound like but it is very promising. - SJX
Thanks for the coverage...SJX
Hi SJX, Thanks for the full review of the whole event and the pictures. Amazing and wonderful..... BHK9
LOL! Indeed
One will need a very large master bedroom with a similarly large walk-in closet for this watch box.
Really great report and thoughtful article SJX. This just struck me
that it is the quality of articles like this with in depth reporting and absolutely compelling photographs that makes The PuristS such a great place. Many thanks for the time and talent that went into this piece. I am still spellbound by the Hybris Mechan...
Thanks Tim
keep a look out for Nicolas' own article, I am sure it will be even more comprehensive. - SJX This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-10-03 21:11:31
I wish...
...I could be miniaturized temporarily in order to experience the movements in these three watches from the inside. They are all amazing, beautiful pieces. It's a collection to dream about certainly. The Grand Sonnerie in particular is very much to my tas...
Now that's a post about the Hybris Mechanica, SJX.
Honestly, this is the first serious post about these watches, and most particularly, about the Grande Sonnerie, which is the TRUE, and certainly most important novelty of the year 2009. This watch deserved such a post, and I was sad to see, here, and ther...
Thanks for the kind comments Nicolas
I am looking forward to your post once you visit the manufacture. - SJX
Will not be able to post anything before
November.... I will have a visit at the Maufacture in the next days, and will need a lot of time to preapre something dign of this watch! Best, Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2009-10-04 00:14:06
Is this the future of high-end marketing
SJX: Thanks for the sneak peak of the set. Do you think this is the future of high-end watches' marketing? To package three hefty pieces that could stand alone proudly in the horology firmament, but package them with other luxury goodies like that leather...
I don;t believe sale sales of these watches individually or as a set
are high KPIs for JLC. I see this attepmt as more of a serious statement of intent on the positioning front to try to claim pole position on several front which Jerome mentioned. Whether it will work depends I guess on many other factors and I do believe ...
Could be! AP Cabinet Pieces? Still three to go. However
MJLC have taken the cabinet a step further. Andrew H
Wow!
Just a sample that why JLC is one of the BEST brands ever. Amazing works of pure art (to me). Thanks for sharing. Would love to see them in the flesh and spend some time with my beloved loupe. Vte
This is absolutely fantastic!
So JLC will soon have the most complicated wristwatch in the world! Again, fantastic reporting, thank you so much! By the way I was pleasantly surprised to see a Patek Philippe wristwatch around JLC's CEO.
Are you sure Jerome Lambert is wearing a PP?
I met him several times, and I never saw him wearing a PP, alhough he has a lot of admiration for watches coming from other brands. So, I think the photographer may answer to this question: Who was wearing a PP? Best, Nicolas
That is not Jerome's wrist
it belongs to someone who's keeping his watches for the next generation. - SJX
Incredible watchmaking....
it will take a while to absorb the impact of this trio at a personal level. Hopefully, they will be available for perusal in certain settings (ADs) at some future time. Appreciate the report. tempusfugit
Thank you SJX for this report
truly an amazing concept, and that GS is indeed a masterpiece. Cheers, Asi
Thanks for the report SJX. Great photos and insight. Question: how
does the innovation and finish compare to something that is more artisanal? Not the product of a large firm with a number of contributing individuals, but more the work of one or two people? Different animals I grant you, but there is still something in t...
A good question
I've always written that JLC's finishing is a bit industrial and lacking in the fine quality of the top end volume makers like Lange or the independents like Dufour or Voutilainen. The Grande Sonnerie shown, a prototype admittedly, was similarly finished....
Not quite correct nor incorrect
Patek Philippe have "all the electronic thingymajigs" too to test their striking watches. Except they use the objective data to weed out the pieces that are not good enough to even reach the human listening test in the Stern offices. The subjective final ...
The point is more subtle that that...
In the same way that component parts can be assembled, why is it that the machine does not understand how the end product can differ, where as the human senses can? It is not that the machine on average will always get it right, but that the smallest of c...
Parma ham
I was just reading in the FT Weekend a short story on the production of Parma ham. As the salted ham is aged (by the thousands), inspectors check the hams by sticking a sharpened wooden stick into the ham, pulling it out and then taking a whiff of the sti...
Formidable
What incredible pieces. I think JLC is really doing a special work these last few years. Bringing innovation and this kind of retro-futuro-classy look that matches the brand tradition and past. Great post, looking forward to seeing these beauties in perso...
Wonderful report SJX
I really enjoyed every word. JLC has introduced so many important watches over the last few years. The Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie is an unbelievable piece, not only technical but also the incredible looks. GEO
