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Parmigiani

My impressions: The Tondagraph isn't a direct comparator to the Daytona, which you've noted

 

The bracelets of the two watches are, for instance, designed for quite different purposes. The one on the Tondagraph is delicate and decorative; on the Daytona it's robust and sturdy. Both are good examples of what they want to achieve, and I would find it hard to make an either-or call.


The watches too are rather different propositions beyond some superficial similarities. PF's watch evolves out of its rather esoteric niche, trying to offer something that it hoped would have wider appeal. The results are mixed. The Rolex we all know about and its been decades since it emerged from neglect. Unlike the Tondagraph, it doesn't have anything to prove.

That said, your hunch about the Tondagraph echoes the very first reactions to it upon its release in 2020. Yes, there is just too much superfluous text on the dial. We really don't need the word 'month' next to the month window, for instance. What were they thinking? I know PF scaled back on this with later iterations in the line, but it was too late for the Tondagraph. Also there is probably not enough anti-reflective coating on the crystal, which explains how the dial can look black, grey or even blue at times. There's nothing wrong with that, but it's there.

When I was weighing up whether or not to buy the Tondagraph, I couldn't get past the irritating text. So I went instead for the much simpler - and for me more satisfying - Tonda GT (its three hander sibling) on a bracelet. Very happy I made that choice. It's a more refined option in steel than a Rolex (i sold a GMT-Master II at the time because I only wanted one 'steel sports watch').

As for the new PF line, I happen to think that the new CEO Guido Terreni is laying it on way too thick. Here is what we read on the homepage of the site: "A maison with historical expertise for purists in search of contemporary timepieces." Note the italicisation from the original. This is marketing schmaltz. I would argue that as collectors we don't need to be told by a brand's marketing efforts that we are "purists." It's way too didactic and preachy. If they toned it down to couple with these new, toned-down watches, they can trust that people interested will get what they're trying to convey.

And indeed, the watches have a more restrained look than the GT line and yes they are decidedly more expensive. They are even less like the Daytona in this respect than the GT variants were last time round. I'd be interested to look back at this effort in five years time to see where it went.

Anyway, just some spot reflections. All the best.


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