Patek Philippe

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Part I: CALATRAVA

It is known as the signature collection and was launched in 1932. For some it represents the epitome of a round wristwatch. Each member of the collection is elegant in its simplicity and classically understated. Each change or new addition is observed by the critical eyes of connoisseurs. Probably it would be much easier to present something totally new, instead of the smart evolutions Patek is known for.

Ref. 5227

Patek Philippe merged the key external elements of the Calatrava collection and its Officer's models to present the new Calatrava Ref. 5227, a unique masterpiece of the casemaker’s art. Its 18K-gold case has a diameter of 39 mm (+2mm compared to 5127) and exhibits the typical Calatrava contours with elegantly curved lugs. The most exclusive feature is the display back, protected by a separate dust cover with a totally concealed hinge. As soon as the case is opened, it becomes evident that this hinge alone calls for the ultimate in craftsmanship on the part of the casemaker. The same applies to the elongated flutes that extend from the case flank into the lugs, enhancing the slender silhouette of the case. Each of these flutes is carved out of the gold and then, as all other case parts, polished by hand to a mirror sheen. The exceptionally elegant case accommodates a self-winding movement in a class of its own. It is the legendary caliber 324 SC, now endowed with the innovative

The predecessor is the Ref. 5127, a widespread watch with lots of fans. For quite a few Patek collectors it was the entrance into the world of Patek Philippe.

(5127 vs 5227)

The new model is still a very classical version, but with a twist. Some called it almost aggressive (Mr. Stern included), but I would call it “sexy” – the side view.

The watch was already planned for 2012, but because of the sophisticated case and its challenges this was not possible.

The first batch comes with an engraving inside the cover at the back, but later it should be great for personalization. Especially such a simple watch seems to be perfect as a “personal” present for very special occasions.

On the wrist:

It fits very nice and the half-hunter case is something hard to recognize. 39mm is an appropriate size for a classical watch for today and works very well with the slightly higher case. On my wrist it feels smaller than some 37mm PP´s I have tried in the past.

Conclusion:

It (still) is a very classical watch with some extra spice. One that is very nice to have, but not a must for the collection. Some will stick to the older versions for several reasons, but that is not a big deal. A worthy member of the Calatrava collection it is and I am quite sure some will love it a lot.

Ref. 5116R

Nothing changed in general and only a new version in rose gold is available.

Ref. 5298P

A new variation of the well-known Ref. 5296, for the gentleman with eclectic taste and/or for special occasions.

Ref. 7200R

Less is more - the new Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 7200 in 18K rose gold is a ladies' wristwatch fully devoted to displaying hours and minutes. It indicates neither seconds nor the date nor other extras – only the time in its most unhurried manifestation. A woman who so systematically focuses on the essence of things expresses a preference for timeless perfection in its most feminine incarnation. The personality of this new watch reflects the Bauhaus philosophy that “form follows function,” which inspired the design of the very first Calatrava presented in 1932 (as already mentioned above).

Beneath it lies sublime mechanical horology: the legendary, 2.53-mm thin caliber 240 with a 22K gold minirotor integrated in the plate as well as the innovative Spiromax balance spring made of Silinvar.

It is a beauty and not only at the back, one that asks for a closer observation.

The style of the case is Patek at its best and the size of the crown is appropriate.

The Breguet numerals, the color and structure of the indexes/lettering or the beautiful dial itself. Everything is almost perfect.

On the wrist:

Something is wrong in the pictures above, at least if one has a paradigma in mind. The watch is shown on a man´s wrist, because I could not resist trying it on. The case diameter is 34.6mm and it was introduced as a ladies watch. Not that long ago that watches would have been a perfect man´s watch. For vintage lovers it still may be nice and wearable, who knows …

Conclusion:

It is a feast for the eyes and a pleasure on the wrist. If that watch is only for woman, I am green with envy. Hopefully there are lots of woman who can appreciate it. To me it is everything a woman needs – almost

If that kind of beauty would be available with a bigger case and a slightly bigger sized movement like the caliber 260, I would fall in a second. For sure!