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Ulysse Nardin

Does anyone else feel Ulysse Nardin is a ship without a rudder?

 

My interest in this brand started in 2000.  I own a few pieces, and enjoy seeing countless others I do not.  I have always felt the brand's ingenuity and technical prowess are second to none.


But these past few years, the ship is sinking for me.  The undying commitment to using an X or rectangle on most every watch they make now, I feel it is a huge mistake.  

This new "Diver X Skeleton" (photo credit to Ulysse Nardin website).... where to begin.  I'll admit at first glance there is excitement and intrigue.  But after that second passes, what are we left with?  A confusing mess of elements that have nothing to do with a dive watch.  I accept most people who buy haute horlogerie dive watches won't actually take them below water, but some of us absolutely do.  If you are going to call a piece a "dive watch", should it not be very legible?  I look at this piece and struggle to think of other watches that are so hard to read.  The relationship of the minute hand to the bezel is rather important for a dive watch, I see the lume but when that is over any of the 4 X areas, forget it.





I have felt for some time this brand needs a new head designer.  Maybe they don't even have one now, I really don't know.  I also feel they need a new marketing direction.  "...Diver X Skeleton is an explosive fusion between the sporty design of a Diver and technical prowess of the Executive Skeleton.  It's a match that was written in the stars."  WHAT?  Are you really serious?

As a designer, I try to never criticize other peoples work.  But given where this brand is now - the lowest I have seen them in 21 years - I can really imagine them going out of business.

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