WatchProSite|Market|Digest

Zenith

Recalling the Nataf-Era designs...

 

....many of the releases featured case diameters in excess of 44 mm, yet all of the non-Defy Xtreme models featured reasonably-legible sub-dials. Including the good Nataf-era "big case models" together with the current catalog examples you presented, it is clear that Zenith still knows how to design a large-diameter El Primero with a legible dial. I don't think it's a major issue, unless the overlapping sub-dial motif eventually takes the entire line-up hostage. But...isn't this a possibility if the wrong lessons are learned?

I'd guess that the Defy Xtreme series was poorly received because the watches were a bit over-designed AND legibility of the chrono-seconds hand was sacrificed for embarrassingly superfluous text on the dial. Had the watches been perfectly-legible, I think that the community here would have begrudgingly respected that particular model line. I think the three thematic flaws of the bad Nataf-era designs were (i) unrealistic MRSPs (ii) over-the-top design (iii) lack of legibility. Some of the Nataf-era designs were quite good, but I think that might have been overlooked in favour of a complete relaunch of the catalog. It would also appear that design flaw (iii) is being overlooked in order to ensure aesthetic balance. I understand the need to keep case diameter in the 42 - 44 mm range, but I think legibility is even more important, in keeping with Zenith's brand DNA.

My thought is that the overlapping sub-dial flaw is unlikely to show up in the AD and boutique sale figures, as it is not the sort of flaw that is noticed immediately. I propose the possibility that this design flaw will dampen the owner's enthusiasm for the piece once the "new watch phase" is over, which may dampen enthusiasm for the brand when it comes time to consider purchasing a second Zenith. One can make the counter-argument that size counts more than legibility (such that the Neo-Vintage diameter is too small for contemporary tastes), so it's worth debating until internal sales figures bear out a result.

  login to reply
💰162 Marketplace Listings for Zenith