Saw the new Breguet Type XX in the flesh (long rant) . . .
But I was immediately disappointed by both these releases. As a huge fan of pilot’s watches, I’ve been anxiously awaiting this release. I was excited and had extremely high expectations that a Type XX would finally join my collection, especially after the Type XX Only Watch 2019 and Type XX Only Watch 2021. But talk about a letdown. That’s on me. I take full responsibility and this is a great lesson learned!
I’ve been “networking” with the NYC Boutique for the past few years expressing my desires and hopes for a new Type XX. Not long after I finally saw the new releases, I emailed my contact and said, “Unfortunately, these are both a ‘No’ for me. I can definitely state that without having to see them in the flesh. Hopefully, they will release an option for enthusiasts. But thank you anyways, my friend!”
Well, on Sunday, my local AD actually had the Type XX in the display case. I asked the SA if I could take a look and he responded, “We have the new Type XX? Are you sure that’s what you are looking at?” 😂🤣😂 Apologies, the plastic is still on combine with the lighting:
Over on Hodinkee, Mark Kauzlarich interviewed Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet, regarding the date function, "If I hadn't included the calendar, some would've asked for one. You can never make everyone happy. We are living now in the 21st century, and given the current trends, a watch that doesn't feature a calendar wouldn't really be appreciated by the clients. So it's almost a necessity today. But if I wanted to do an exact replica of the original watch, it also wouldn't have been an automatic, it would have been manual."
Where is he getting this information from? Who do they select to participate in surveys? Do they exclude enthusiasts from these surveys? Are they outsourcing this to market research firms? If so, Breguet should ask for their money back!
I was not only able to actually see it in the metal, but I could have actually purchased that piece and walked out the door with it on my wrist. Think about that for just a minute. We’re still in this stainless steel craze. Laughing out loud, I looked at the SA and stated, “We both know Breguet executed this poorly. If this was executed correctly, you would not have this here on display and you would have responded to my request for one with the usual, ‘Let me take down your information and add you to the list.’” There’s something wrong here.
Going back to the date, I’m not one who will refuse a watch simply because it has a date. I have many pieces with the date function. Although I would prefer these without a date, I would have accepted if the date was executed at 6 o’clock, which they have done previously. But not only does this date “look off,” especially on the Type 20, they also appear to have forgotten “Swiss Made,” which make it look like and afterthought at 4:30:
Another thing to consider is that Breguet went through the effort to release the Type XX and the Type 20. This presented a great opportunity by catering to the enthusiasts by giving us at least one without a date? I’m biased of course, but the Type 20 would have a great piece to execute without a date. Yes, they will never make everyone happy. But can they at least make an effort?
Then, speaking of Hodinkee, take a look at this screen shot:
Breguet is paying advertising fees to market the Type XX. I don’t recall Chopard advertising this new Alpine Eagle 41 XPS or L.U.C 1860. I don’t believe either brand is well known outside of the enthusiast community. And look at what Chopard did with respect to the L.U.C 1860. They have a history of including the date in a few editions with the date at 6 o’clock, yet they decided to execute this stunning beauty without a date! That must be why it received such a poor reception from Watches & Wonders 2023! 😉
Well, it looks like we’re back where we started. I strongly believe that they will get this right eventually. Hopefully, it won’t take another four years. I would like to think in less than a year they will release some pieces for their enthusiasts that love the brand and the Type XX. There I go again talking about things outside of my control and setting myself up for great disappointment! 😂🤣😂
Rant over! Good night! Stay safe!🥂
Best,
Mark
Agreed on all your points
Who's a potential buyer of a Breguet Type XX/20 if not the enthusiast? And to make things even worse, they had it right with the "Only Watch".
Is like they purposely decided to screw up!
I understand they want to expand their customer base, which should be an objective for all businesses.
Thanks Mark!
I think you make really good points, not just about the date that everyone is complaining about, but also about the way the dial is balanced. Or, more correctly, not balanced. And the way the case fits on the wrist (although I haven’t yet seen this one in the metal).
Maybe someone will explain to me that the movement is indeed correctly sized for the dial and the case; but to my eyes, the whole thing is wrong, the fundamental problem being that the dial is too large. The subdials at 6 and 9 are simply too close to the centre. That’s not because the movement is too small; it’s because the dial is too big.
So I would suggest to Bréguet that they knock 2mm off the case size, not taking the width out off the bezel - it looks ok from photos - but from the dial. (When I look at the rear view with the movement surrounded by quite a bit of metal, I’m convinced they could put the watch on a diet.) Then just remove the date, or put it back at 6 o’clock if the lunkheads in the marketing department absolutely insist on having it, and…that’s it, apart from making sure the caseback is flat so the lugs can fit properly.
Best
E.
No problem, my friend!
We all agree
They succeeded.
I always wonder who's buying any Breguet from their current catalogue...
I agree on your first two sentences, not on the last. They have some great watches in their current catalogue. Alas, not this one.
Although they did disappoint us collectors . . .
I’m happy for him that this new Type XX made his ‘heart tick’ and he pulled the trigger. We have a diverse group of collectors on this site and the last thing anyone should do is not pulled the trigger based on others’ views and opinions!
That said, I would love for him to express his views on what made him pull the trigger. I know it may be tough in the ‘current climate’ on here and other sites. But I know Breguet made at least one person happy!👏👏👏
As for the proportions, I will have to see it real, which will happen next week. But the date is a total no go. And I agree on everything you eloquently said.
Thanks for your thoughts Mark.
We can only hope, Jon!
It is a bit unfortunate
I usually refrain from complaining at length about watches (new releases) if I don't like them.
And: as we all know, there is no arguing about taste.
Yesterday I had the opportunity to examine both watches, just behind the display of our Breguet shop (it was evening and after opening hours). Both models were excellently presented and really good to look at.
There are (for me!) so many - yes - design mistakes made here that I don't even know where to start.
In short: I've had problems with the current Marine series.
Keyword: Roman Numerals or those number pads that are said to be inspired by flags and are ultimately so much uglier to me than the solution in the previous series. This design put me off buying a watch from this series.
Now the new XX could have been my first Breguet (I really want one in my collection). But unfortunately I have to pass here, too.
There is so much … wrong with this watch. But that has already been explained in many posts in detail and I will save myself from repeating it.
IMHO it’s a drama and another missed opportunity for Breguet…
Best
Thomas
Breguet did get people excited as one will see across the various forums and watch sites!
The sales will tell the story
The sales data will definitely tell the story about their success at the end of the day!
Cheers, Yacomino!🥂