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SIHH 2016: hands on review of the Lange & Söhne Saxonia Moon Phase

The moonphase display is one of the Lange & Söhne favorite complications. Perhaps because it gives the opportunity to bring a poetic touch to the  Germanic discipline and precision which are found in the watches from the Manufacture in Glashütte. This is not the first time this complication joined the Saxonia collection since it is already used in the Saxonia Annual Calendar. However, the combination of the big date with the moonphase display, without any additional complication is a premiere in the Lange collection.

The Saxonia Moon Phase, available in rose or white gold, can be considered as an evolution of the Saxonia Automatic. It shares with it the same uncluttered aesthetic context, the same indexes, the Alpha hands of the same color as the case. Similarly, the movement of the Saxonia Moon Phase belongs to the same family as the one of the Saxonia Automatic, the  L086 family with a central winding-mass and a power reserve of 72 hours.



However, the presence of the large date and moonphase displays changes significantly our perception of the watch. While the Saxonia Automatic is perceived as an extremely sober watch, the Saxonia Moon Phase gains enormously in dynamism and presence while retaining the classic good taste that characterizes the Saxonia collection. The case gets extra 1.5mm to reach the 40mm making it a respectable size for a dress watch. The dial does not lose balance because the sub-dial dedicated to the moonphase is well positioned. In addition, the double-window of the big date avoids to pull down the center of gravity of the watch and creates a nice contrast effect due to its rectangular shape with respect to the circular sub-dial.



The solid silver argenté dial of the Saxonia Moon Phase is undoubtedly its greatest asset. Harmonious, well finished, it is nicely  enhanced by the solid gold lunar disk spangled with 852 stars, some of which are like grains of dust. This disc is very pleasant to observe and  it brings the decorative and dynamic dimension to the watch. At the end of the day, even a slow complication can give energy to a dial!

The only complaint I would mention about this dial is the presence of the tens associated with the second hand in the moonphase sub-dial. This aesthetic feature of the new Saxonia watches was introduced last year (and to be more precise: in the Saxonia Outsize Date limited edition) and is a reminder of the Langematik which were using the caliber Sax-O- Mat. These small numerals seem a bit unnecessary here although I understand their presence to be consistent with the other watches of the collection.



The movement which powers the Saxonia Moon Phase is the caliber L086.5  with a  diameter of 30.4mm and a thickness of 5.2mm and therefore is an evolution of the L086.1. It is the reason why it has a similar frequency (3hz) and power reserve (72 hours). Lange's will with this movement was to increase the power reserve compared to Sax-O-Mat. To achieve this objective, a larger barrel is used which obliges to locate the winding mass above and thus to sacrifice the traditional 3/4 rotor of the Sax-O-Mat. The winding mass is thin to keep a reasonable movement height and even if I appreciate the presence of the peripheral platinum segment, the L086.5 movement does not have the same charm than of the Sax-O-Mat. Despite this remark, it remains very well finished and offers a very enjoyable show. The additional large date display and moon phase module has a very reasonable thickness since the movement only gets an additional 1,5mm height. The accuracy of the moon phase is not the highest in the Lange world but it remains very acceptable (and totally sufficient!) with a one day correction which is required every 122.6 years.



I do believe that the Saxonia Moon Phase  is the most successful "simple" Saxonia: I was seduced by its charm and balance. It offers a very classic presentation without falling into boredom. The lunar disc enlivens the dial and the 40mm size gives it a nice presence on the wrist without appearing to be oversized. The diameter (40mm) over thickness (9,8mm) ratio of the case is well proportioned and the watch is neither too thin nor too thick. If the prize (28,500 euros) is much higher than the Saxonia Automatic (22 / 23,000 euros), the gap can be explained by the much more attractive visual rendering. But it is also close to the Lange One price and inevitably the question of the opportunity to acquire instead the most representative watch of the Lange collection arises. The undeniable beauty of this Saxonia can be enough in this context? It is at the end a matter of taste.



Thanks to the Lange & Söhne team for its hospitality during the SIHH.

Most:
+ A successful, balanced and attractive dial
+ The beauty of the lunar disc
+ The 3-day power reserve
+ The case proportions

Cons:
- The L086.5 movement, even visually attractive, doesn't have the charm of the Sax-O-Mat
- The Lange One price is relatively close to the Saxonia Moon Phase one and we may hesitate in this context