Montblanc

About 4 years ago ThePuristS.com reported on a new "alliance" of independent watchmakers.

 

 

The founding partners of this Time Aeon group consisted of a well respected, time tested member (Dufour), an inspiring and creative mind (Halter), and three experienced but relatively new independent watchmakers (Kari Voutilainen, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey).  This small group's stated objectives were to share the knowledge and skills of master watchmakers for future generations.

The velocity which Voutilainen, Greubel and Forsey have gained success in the industry continues to amaze me.  Compared to his own long and tortuous road to recognition, I am sure even Mr. Dufour is impressed.  So in hindsight the knowledge shared amongst members of Time Aeon would definately benefit new watchmakers wishing to succeed as an individual in a field dominated by large brands.

However in 2008 this small group realized that despite their own individual successes they could not fulfill their mission without help so Time Aeon formed a foundation with corporate entities as their new partners:

click here

What was irritating at the time of this press release was my impression that Time Aeon would now only serve as a creative "feeder" to Harry Winston.  Even worse were the three new "retail" partners being mentionned.  Were "Westime, Louvre, and Ginotti only "in it" to guarrentee a steady stream of the newest and hottest timepieces for their demanding clients?

I thought my fears were confirmed with the introduction of this watch for Harry Winston

 

and the announcement of the Pleiad competition in which the winning watchmaker will have a limited series of timepieces produced under the Harry Winston brand with the name of the winner featured on the watch.

Is new era of independent watchmaking selling its soul under this agreement?

When Montblanc acquired Minerva and started the Institut de Recherche, they also joined this new Time Aeon foundation to fulfill their historical mission of preserving the Villeret watchmaking tradition. Montblanc was, and still is, the only other large brand involved. 

As initial support, the Minerva Institute manufactured a Grand Chronographe Email Grand Feu in platinum from the Montblanc Villeret 1858 collection. This one-off timepiece was auctioned and proceeds from the sale donated to Time Aeon Foundation. The Institute also pledged to make its workshops, resources and expertise available to help the Foundation see its chosen projects through to completion.

So now we see the evolution of this Time Aeon concept in the creation of the Metamorphosis.

 

From the official Montblanc press release:

" Montblanc created the “TimeWriter” concept, under which the company wants to introduce projects with independent creators that have great ideas and plan to establish themselves as independent watchmakers. It is foreseen to present a project every two years. A complex industry such as watchmaking demands investments that are very often much too costly for young entrepreneurs to finance on their own, so through the help of Montblanc the Institut Minerva also contributes, both materially and intellectually, toward helping these ambitious individuals start their own business"

and later in the press release

"Only 28 pieces of the Montblanc Metamorphosis will be manufactured. Its technical achievements, which remain the intellectual property of the two watchmakers Johnny Girardin and Franck Orny, write an important chapter in the still brief history of the newly founded firm of Télôs Watch SA, which is under the direction of these two inventive men, whom it will serve as a channel through which to bring their ideas and expertise to the market. For their first creation, the Metamorphosis, Montblanc made available to them all the necessary developmental and technical resources at the Institut Minerva in Villeret, and is providing the requisite financial investments and rendering the moral and administrative support that these two young businessmen need in order to realize their ambitious projects and afterwards continue to ply their trade at their own Télôs Watch SA. "

so how much capital does it take to being a new complex watch to fruition?

Obviously a lot more than any one new watchmaker /engineer (or two in this case) can muster.  Take a look at the publically available company record for Télôs Watch SA (click here ).  100,000CHF doesn't go a long way...without Montblanc's support Télôs Watch SA would have been a non-starter.

 

 So by giving Girardin and Orny access to the Cal. 16.29 as their base movement to build the Metamorphosis complication (by itself a whopping 315 individual parts) and by working alongside Florian Broussard who was one of the constructeurs behind the creation of the Cal 16.29 the new fledging Télôs Watch SA was able to accomplish in 18 months what probably would have taken them a few years to do, if at all.

The final product is not yet available since the Metamorphosis is still in prototype production but once complete it will be a game changer...both in terms of price and novelty.

and look,  Montblanc has followed through with the original Time Aeon/ Harry Winston concept...Girardin's and Orny's names are on the dial (at least on one of the two faces)

So I am interested to hear what my fellow PuristS think of Montblanc's collaboration with Time Aeon.

Are these types of projects (think Opus series, MB&F) worth the time, effort, and resources?

Is this a "better" way of bringing attention to new independent watchmakers or is our romantic vision of a passionate, lone watchmaker working by candlelight, living on bread and water, and having their watch "discovered" by a wondering Purist preferable?

What is the future for Micromechanical/engineering consulting firms like Agenhor now that BNB concepts have gone under...Can another like Télôs Watch SA survive?

Montblanc is pushing forward though...looks like the next "winner" of the Pleiad has already been secretly announced:

" Now that this project is well on its way toward public presentation in Geneva, the experts at the Institut Minerva have begun turning attention to their next supportive project, which they plan to conduct during the ensuing eighteen months – because development must never be allowed to stand still! "

I wonder what's in Harry Winston's pipeline!

Just some thoughts on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

Mike

Since it is easier to pick nits than process the entire idea on the first read

I'd not use BNB's failure as a mark against the business model, they seem to have been mostly done in by poor accounting/collection rather than a lack of business....

A

logical "arguments" in support or against the Time Aeon concept.

Is the Time Aeon concept any different than the Confrérie Horlogère idea set up by the now failed BNB concept?

I guess it was interesting trying to understand how the independent watchmakers saw themselves relative to the real players in the industry vs. what we (as enthusiasts) saw them representing. 

Cheers, Mike

PS _ I loved the way BNB concept was "rescued" by Hublot...  Great marketing!

 

 

 

I'd buy stock in a Zepplin company if he was behind it....
A

.

Hublot's current models rely heavily on BNB products, I think at least all their tourbillons if not other pieces as well. Without BNB, Hublot is in for a world of hurt.....

A

It's hard to say whether or not if Montblanc's collaboration with Time Aeon would be beneficial or beneficial to one party or not beneficial to both parties.

The way I've interpreted Time Aeon is like a conglomerate of the small independents coming together. If this interpretation is correct, then I would consider Time Aeon to be counterproductive to watch lovers who support small AHCI Independents.

The whole point about being an independent is having a small production; small means that your business caters to a very small niche market and that as a small independent organization, you are more or less free to explore your own limits of creativity with little outside influence. This is the reason why watch collectors like independents; it's because of their uniqueness.

When you conglomorize (there's no such word, I'm being a lexicographer here) a whole bunch of independents, these independents aren't independent anymore. Thus, they will have to make decisions together, compromise together. While this is a step forward in many cases, from a certain viewpoint, it can also be a step backwards; the independents will be less independent.

Now, if these master watchmakers do decide to work together, there is no telling what could be achieved. It is conceivable that they will produce some of the most exotic watches in the world that will be tremendous works of art. However, this magnificent work of art would be a culmination of interests; and unusual. Imagine Van Gough, Picasso, and Renoir all working on the same canvas. Would you want a single piece of art signed by three individuals? Or, would you want three individual master pieces?

There are definitely pros and cons. I'm wary, of this. But I'm going to go for the ride either way; if the collaboration does produce a fantastic watch, I will still respect the watch. However, I will always wonder if something else could've been produced that would be also very impressive.

I hope I understood the question correctly and I hope my response was understandable. Thank you for reading.

of thoughts.

I was feeling a bit conflicted between my love for independent watchmaking and the Time Aeon concept.

I cannot imagine any independent watchmakers starting out with such a complicated piece...most start out with a three hand/time only model then expand from there if they have the financial ability.

Look at PSM...

Recently some are able to start out with more complicated pieces like McGonigle brothers, G&F.  Kari started with piece unique decimal repeaters.

Perhaps these relationships between large brands are a different approach.

Do we consider MB&F independent watchmaking?  Hautlence?

Still with mixed thoughts( partially because we lump everything into the AHCI and independent haute horology forum here at PPro) but I think these may be separate.

Thanks Patrick,

Mike

 

I would agree to most of your points.

However, the cross-breed of a tiger and a lion doesn't look too bad.  But I can't imagine the result of a cross-breed between a monkey and a donkey.  You got my point?

Regards

Ling

I completely understand your point.  I am not saying the final product will be bad, in fact, I'm sure it will be very good.  However, I'm just wondering if the essence of being independent is going to go away. 

The whole point about being independent is the simple fact that you are independent; when you join forces, you're no longer independent. 

But I agree with you, whatever they produce will definitely be very good! 

Any new acquisition lately?

Mike

With a "Different Spin" on Metamorphosis - I was totally amazed at seeing the official presentation at SIHH a month ago on the large screen.

Even more exciting was the time I spent with Johnny Girardin and Franck Orny and their in-depth presentation of a working movement out of the case. The movement is simply fantastic.

The most enjoyable part of talking with Johnny and Franck was seeing and feeling the pride and passion they had for their work.
Metamorphosis is a very large step forward in the Art of Horology. In my opinion Montblanc and the Minerva Institute should all be proud that they are preserving and promoting the skills of these artisans and at the same time exploring new horological developments such as Metamorphosis for future generations to enjoy.

How many collectors in 50 to 100 years from now will be trying to get their hands on or to even see in person one of the 28?
I know I would love to own one. For now I am still extremely happy with my Rieussec and looking forward to my first Villeret.
However, I will always have the memory of a pleasurable afternoon in Geneva, a wonderful first hand look at this beautiful watch, and the time of my life just talking watches for an hour with two young watchmakers that clearly love what they are doing for a living.

Regards jay

your impressions of the watchmakers behind the Metamorphosis

One thing is for sure, the Metamorphosis does stir up immense emotions, love it or hate it.  It is a unique complication.

Hope to hear more about your Rieussec soon...perhaps even about your future Villeret purchase!

 

Cheers, MIke

Mike,

Metamorphosis by Montblanc is like the ultra-luxe Duesenberg automobiles in the early 20th century.  Top line and made of Unobtainium.

The 'Duesies' (Doozies) were the most advanced American vehicles of their time in engineering innovation and aesthetic. Few were made and fewer survived. They had celebrity/royalty endorsement coupled with actual track perfomance in their marketing armamentarium. But the company went bust...twice!

To make legend, you need People, Process and Product. 

The People part includes investors and collectors as well as the creators.

The Process part requires a rich knowledge base that may be greater than one independent man could have in his head. Process also includes the financial know-how to run a business.  Countless innovators have fallen by the wayside from lack of fiscal prowess........BNB?    F.A. Jones?    Cedric Johner?   A.N. dePatek & J-A. Philippe?

So, I see Time Aeon as an official organisation doing exactly what has been done by so-called independents for centuries  --  sharing knowledge.  When A.L. Breguet didn't know something, did he consult Ferdinand Berthoud or his excellent textbooks?  Well, probably not when it came to those two protagonists!     But you get my point.

Nowhere in the charter of Time Aeon does it state that more than one 'independent' watchmaker MUST work on each project.  So, those that are worried about the products losing 'independence' due to 'group-think' or having to sign each piece with three signatures can be assured that only as many creators as needed will be used on each concept.

Creators have always been used in the background by big brands e.g. Mr G.Genta for AP, PP, VC, IWC, Cartier, Omega, Bulgari, Seiko (!).  Vincent Calabrese is another prolific 'consultant'  -- Corum, Blancpain etc.. But it was decades before we were told. Nowadays, it is 'sexy' to have an 'independent watchmaker' consultant and the cooperative creator business model has been exploited by HWRT,  Max Busser & Friends, Maitres du Temp and others.  Marc Newson Atmos, anyone?

Bottom line: Cooperatives like Time Aeon and others may provide the platform to attract investors so the whole thing actually survives, to do business and help start up businesses. Why would you not be assured by luminous names like Voutilainen, Gruebel, Forsey and even Dufour?  With those 'assets', you can convince some people to bring their cash.

At the end of the day, the proof of value is each completed piece.  I don't care whose name is engraved on the dial if the product excels in aesthetic form and function. Nobody paid big money for a van Gogh whilst he was alive. Are his paintings any more beautiful with a price tag? Like blind wine-tasting, we need to know what tastes good without a label.

Therein lies the problem.....how do we gather enough knowledge, experience and opinion to be able to recognise excellence without a signature on the dial?

Answer: Use the combined knowledge base on PuristSPro? 

 

Regards,

MTF

This message has been edited by MTF on 2010-03-08 01:18:33

to tell whether or not these relationships will create worthy watches.

Cheers, Mike