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Bulgari Diagono Professional Scuba Chrono - An "On-The-Wrist" Review
By: pingtsai : May 6th, 2010-21:39
I have always had a soft spot for the Bulgari Scuba. The original was a distinctive and modern looking watch which first caught my eye in the nineties when it was quite a hit. However by today's popular size standards for watches and sports watches in particular, the original is considered small at a case width of 38 mm.
Bulgari Diagono Professional Scuba Chrono Watch: An On-the-Wrist Review
By Su JiaXian and Ping Tsai
© May 2010
Note : This watch belongs to Dr. Bernard Cheong, who needs no introduction. It was loaned to me for several weeks. The watch is about three years old.
A few years ago Bulgari enlarged the Scuba, making it wider and thicker. In many ways it's an improved watch especially with the addition of a flyback chronograph. The watch also retains the classic Bulgari design elements, primarily the bezel, case and articulated rubber strap. Like its predecessor, it is available in steel or gold as well as steel with a gold bezel.
The Bulgari Scuba I reviewed is the 18k yellow gold version. After spending some time with the watch, I ended up liking it tremendously despite its imperfections.
First let's explore its shortcomings. I wasn't particularly fond of the phrase "PROFESSIONAL DIVING" engraved on the side of the case. In my opinion, it is unnecessary excess wording. The watch is a diving sports watch and the design and functionality will give it its identity. The labeling is needless and kitschy and detracts from the simple clean design of the case.
The crown is on the small side in terms of both aesthetics and practicality. A larger crown would have been more convenient to grip and also more attractive. The designers were probably constrained by the position of the pushers, crown guard and case size when they considered the sizing for the crown.
Another element of the watch that I questioned is the central chronograph minute hand. Since it is yellow and similar in shape to the yellow gold minute hand, it can lead to confusion when telling the time.
Perhaps another color such as white would have been a better choice to visibly differentiate between the two hands. This will not be a problem in the steel version which has white metal hands.
Oddly enough the converse isn't true though – the chronograph hand is obvious and not easily confused for any of the other hands. When you start the chronograph, the elapsed minutes hand in the centre is evident and easy to read at a glance. The wearer is aware that it is running and therefore knows where to look.
The articulated rubber strap is of high quality and a trademark Bulgari look. The brand's sports watches have been delivered on similar rubber straps since time immemorial. However in my opinion, it doesn't provide the best fit since the links of the strap don't allow it to hug the wrist as snugly as a soft rubber strap would.
The connecting links of the strap are solid gold, which albeit add value to the watch, would also make them extremely expensive to replace. The folding clasp that accompanies the strap, while well made, could be wider to complement the watch better (I think it's 16 mm).
The above mentioned points of criticism are fairly minor and did little to detract from the positive sentiments I have towards the watch as a whole. There may be a few small reasons to dislike the watch but there are much bigger reasons to like it.
Case
At 40 mm wide and standing 16.5 mm thick, the case is quite compact but has a reassuring feeling of concentrated heft. 40 mm is not diminutive but this watch wears and looks smaller than it is because of the wide bezel and dark dial. It could do well with being a tad larger, perhaps 1-2 mm wider.
The Scuba looks modern and distinctively Bulgari, primarily thanks to its case and bezel. The case, undoubtedly the highlight of the watch, possesses a superb sculptural quality. The semi-circle cutouts on the bezel give the watch a unique look and feel. That is not unexpected since it comes from a jeweler who also owns case making facilities. (At the end of 2007, Bulgari acquired Finger, a Swiss company specialized in the creation and production of sophisticated cases for complicated and high-end watches of the most prestigious international watchmaking brands.) The competence of the metal work is tremendous, with excellent details and finishing. Take for instance the large gold screws that secure the rubber bracelet to the case or the beveled edges in the bezel.
In my opinion, the greatest strength of this watch is its case, and specifically, the case finish. The folks in Rome decided to give the case an entirely matte brushed finish – from front to back and top to bottom. This softens the brazenness of the large amount of gold.
Most other solid gold chronographs I can think of contain far too many polished bits (the Offshore 'Rubberclad' in rose gold being an exception). The Rolex Daytona, for instance, is an especially egregious offender in this regards; it contains a smart movement housed in a wonderfully made case paired with high quality dial and hands, but it blinds on a sunny day.
Since the Bulgari Scuba is entirely brushed, while by no means discreet, it is a little bit more subtle. Gold, as a result of its softness, dings and scratches more over time than steel. Matte finished gold ages far better, developing a patina in the grain of the brushed finish, compared to polished gold which just looks scratched. This gives it a uniquely worn look that is most attractive on brushed gold in my opinion.
Notably this chronograph has pushers that can be operated underwater. Omega first did it 20 years ago with the Seamaster chronograph, while TAG Heuer and Breitling have also done the same.
Dial and hands
The crystal is ever so slightly domed and evidently thick. The dial has a guilloche pattern that gives it some character. It is also lacquered and slightly glossy. The hands are one of the most standout features about the watch. They add a splash of color to the dial and give it a sporty character. However, I wish the hands were more substantial which would have given the watch more depth.
The quality of the hands and dial is evident and adequate but there is certainly room to achieve exceptionalism in this area. Bulgari Group acquired the dial manufacturer, Cadran Designs in 2005. With such a valuable resource in place, greater flexibility and quality in dial production would be an ideal goal for Bulgari going forward. Given their current capabilities, exceptional dial and hand quality will hopefully become a given for every watch that Bulgari produces.
Movement
Inside the watch sits an ETA 2892 calibre with a Dubois-Depraz chronograph module. The module gives central elapsed seconds and minute hands, freeing up the sub-dial at nine for a 24-hour indicator. It also has a flyback chronograph and is chronometer certified. Unsurprisingly, and probably thanks to its pedestrian roots, the movement is reliable. This type of movement is completely appropriate for a watch of this genre.
Incidentally TAG Heuer uses a nearly identical movement in its Aquagraph but sans flyback function. The TAG Heuer is a similar watch to the Bulgari technically but it is in a whole different segment in terms of brand image and price point.
Watch appeal
The primary appeal of this watch is in the way it wears and feels. It feels good because the gold, weight and size give the watch substantial mass and presence on the wrist. The watch also feels good because it has a complicated look, with two pushers, three sub-dials and seven hands.
The Bulgari Scuba has an entirely different appeal than say, the Chopard L. U. C. Fleurier, a recent acquisition of mine which has what I would label as more of an "intellectual" appeal. The Chopard contains a movement that is brilliantly finished, cleverly engineered and designed by no less than Michel Parmigiani. Wearing a watch like that allows the owner to savor some intellectual snobbery to put it lightly. Both watches have appeal, just in different ways. The Bulgari is like the casual buddy you want to have a beer with to de-stress from a long day. The Chopard is like the Harvard graduate you want to bring along to the company picnic to impress your boss.
What the Bulgari lacks in intellectual appeal, it makes up for in reliability, mental ease of wear, and an allusion of power from the sizeable heft and gold presence. Even with all the gold, it is a watch that can be worn everyday, a watch that grows on you, isn't offensive or obnoxious and can be counted on like a good friend.
From a personal standpoint, I tend to prefer watches that possess more of a sturdy intellectual appeal. That thought brings to mind another Bulgari, the Sotirio Bulgari annual calendar in rose gold, a watch that does have more intellectual appeal.
The Sotirio Bulgari is the brand's high horology line. All the models have solid horological credentials. The annual calendar is, in all respects, an excellent watch. It features a useful complication built on a high quality movement from Vaucher, housed in a well finished and highly complex case. From the standpoint of serious, stuffy, technical-minded horology, it is a very good watch. Despite all the intellectual appeal that the Sotirio had, it wasn't my cup of tea but I will leave that for another review.
So on one hand sits the Sotirio Bulgari which is a thoroughly fine and esteemable watch, and on the other, a solid gold diver's chronograph. I like the latter more, just because it feels better.
- SJX
Specifications
Movement: Mechanical with automatic winding. 42 hours power reserve.
Function: Chronograph with Flyback
Case: 40 mm 18kt yellow gold with unidirectional rotating bezel
Dial: Black with decorative pattern
Bracelet: Rubber and 18kt yellow gold
PRICE: $20,600.00
This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-05-06 21:47:00 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-05-13 12:58:56
Nice photos!
By: patrick_y : May 6th, 2010-22:41
I've seen this watch before. Many of my assumptions from my superficial glances have been confirmed in this review. But other interesting tidbits and advice are to be considered in the future, thanks to this review.
The biggest offense I see with this watch is the fact that it has the "Professional Diving" carved on the side of this watch. A serious poker player would call on this bluff. If Bulgari were to add a helium gas escape valve, I would consider it to be more of a diver's watch.
Lastly, I find the dial layout on this chronograph to be slightly unusual, I presume the second hand of the watch is the large center sweep hand in red. I find it is a bit unconventional to have two sweep second hands on a chronograph watch.
The overall strong point about this watch is its very humble and utilitarian nature, despite being in gold. It has a very sporty appeal and a fun attitude that makes me think "Miami Beach" whenever I see this watch. This is definitely one of the most low-key watches in yellow gold.
Many thanks to the authors Su JiaXian and Ping Tsai for the creation of this review. Also, special thanks to Dr. Bernard Cheong for allowing someone else to abscond with his watch for so many weeks.
Hi Patrick
By: 41northpole : May 7th, 2010-08:21
The chrono runs the red central hand (elapsed seconds) and the yellow central hand (elapsed minutes) . The 'going' seconds are at 3 on the dial. I agree the inscription on the side of the case is a little 'naff' but at least it's out of the way, unlike 'War and Peace' written on the dial of a certain deepsea watch ;-)
Regards
Tim
That is correct, it is a central elapsed minute and seconds. [nt]
By: SJX : May 8th, 2010-02:09
No message body
re: 'On-The-Wrist" Review..
By: DRMW : May 6th, 2010-22:52
Hello Ping and SJX!
Appreciate the photos and review, well done! Question, does the bezel with the scalloped cuts trap dirt easy?
-MW
Not any worse than other similar bezel designs. [nt]
By: SJX : May 8th, 2010-02:08
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Did the review include a test for...
By: ED209 : May 7th, 2010-17:42
Thanks Ping and SJX for the on-the-wrist review of the Bulgari Diagono Pro Scuba Chrono. I do realize that this Bernard's watch, but did you have a chance to test the chrono pushers under water?
Regards,
ED-209
Unfortunately not. [nt]
By: SJX : May 8th, 2010-02:08
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