Comments:
… and the second one being a mesmerising mechanical sculpture of breathing, illuminated bellows. Its movements resembled - in pace and rhythm - the dance of the Papillon hands…
The watch makes masterful use of the iconic case and copes well with the inherent limitations and challenges that do come along with designing a repeating movement in a shaped case.
The first thing that attracts the eyes is the Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It can be admired through a cutout in the dial:
Upon close look you notice that the dial is made of a sapphire disk which does not attach to the case band or bezel.
The rationale is that this construction is said to help letting the sound of the case.
The gongs are actuated by three individual hammers and strike a C-note for the hours, an E-D-C sequence for the quarters and an E-note for the minutes.
The repeater is actuated by a lever on the left case-side.
The chime is, as far as we can conclude, subtle, well timed and articulated:
Note the specific shape on the minute rack’s teeth:
The Papillon displays the time by means of a jumping hour in combination with a rotating minute hand complication.
A second timezone is displayed in the centre of the dial and can easily be adjusted with the two pushers at 11 and 01 o’clock, respectively.
The minute hand wanders from left to right on the lower half of the dial and then starts again on the left.
Its quite fun to watch:
A tricking feature is the black dial with its horizontal Geneva stripes.
Whereas traditional chronographs are generally used to measure short times on two to three counters, the Chronosprint function indicates the hours and minutes by two hands mounted on a single arbour.
The watch itself was already presented in 2010, but this year saw the addition of a rubber strap...
... and a (quite well-made and comfortable) steel bracelet:
A very wearable watch, but, while technically advanced, it does not have the carefreeness of the iconic Diagono line (see separate post below).
Baselword 2012 - Official PuristSPro Report: Bulgari
Dear All:
we begin our series of Baselworld 2012 reports with the Bulgari company.
Bulgari, formerly known as a jewellery/luxury brand made serious foray into the world of fine watches. It started already in 1977 with the launch of the BVLGARI BVLGARI watch which has received a cult status amongst collectors. Only 5 years later, in 1982, Bulgari Time, a company dedicated to watchmaking, was created in Neuchâtel.
From these beginnings Bulgari pursued the aim of becoming more and more independent in watchmaking terms, acquiring Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta as well as component companies such as Cadrans Design, a producer of dials for high-end watches, and Prestige d’Or, a specialist in the production of metal watchstraps.
In 2009 Bulgari could present its first manufacture watch with proprietary movement and all components completely produced and assembled in-house, the Sotirio Bulgari Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel, named after the founder of the company. For a presentation please click here.
Novelties – we saw several pieces from their Daniel Roth, Gerald Genta, BVLGARI BVLGARI, as well as Serpenti collections.
We will start with the first two lines which deserve special attention as both have been recently acquired and are continuously integrated within the entire Bulgari universe. We were eager to learn if and how Bulgari intends to further develop them.
We asked Guido Terreni, Managing Director of Bulgari’s watch business unit, whether Bulgari intends to further develop the two lines or whether they want to slowly reduce their visibility (and eventually abandon them). Mr Terreni assured us that Bulgari is committed to further developing the two lines. He added that Bulgari acquired much needed watchmaking expertise with those two brands. He conceded that this is seen as a valuable complement to the firm’s mastery of interpreting contemporary styles and trends (the Italian roots, sic!), it adds the credible content. With both Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta Bulgari aims to achieve a balanced level of skills in design as well as in expertise.
More concretely, Giudo Terreni suggests that with Genta the imminent task is to add balance to the watch and to reduce the overdesign, whereas the Roth watches need a more contemporary touch.
In other words: Bulgari aims to create synergies and cross-fertilsation by combining the design and execution with the watchmaking skills.
Let’s take a closer look on the novelties and see how this turns out in practice.
A first hint at what would follow was already prominently placed adjacent to the entrance lobby of the impressive two-story Bulgari booth. Two captivating kinetic/acoustic installations drew us there, the first one representing a tonewood arrangement (-> can we expect a repeating watch?)…
… and the second one being a mesmerising mechanical sculpture of breathing, illuminated bellows. Its movements resembled - in pace and rhythm - the dance of the Papillon hands…
And now, let's start!
This message has been edited by pingtsai on 2012-03-24 09:23:03 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2012-04-24 08:16:29
The Daniel Roth Collection...
Daniel Roth watches are characterised by their distinct case shape. In a 2003 description of the first iteration of the Papillon (more on that later!) Alberto Shileo writes on the occasion of the presentation of the original Papillon:
“Enough has certainly been said over time about the unique Daniel Roth case shape, which has been from the very beginning one of the symbols of the brand (all boxes and papers from that time are thus shaped). As far as I can tell from what I have seen, this has been one of the very few truly innovative case shapes to be introduced on the market in the past few decades. The combination of elliptical and straight segments makes the watch appear round, rectangular and tonneau all at once, and is one of the features which first attracted me to the brand.”
A second defining feature are the small and large complication which often represent unique implementations.
NOVELTIES:
- Daniel Roth Carillon Tourbillon
- Daniel Roth Papillon Voyageur
- Daniel Roth Endurer Chronosprint (steel bracelet, rubber strap)
Carillon Tourbillon
The first novelty to present is already what we would call a beat of the drum. Repeating tourbillons are ‘commonplace’ these days, but a carillon repeating mechanisms is still quite a feat.
The watch makes masterful use of the iconic case and copes well with the inherent limitations and challenges that do come along with designing a repeating movement in a shaped case.
The crown carries the individual watch number (limitation 30):
The first thing that attracts the eyes is the Tourbillon at 6 o’clock. It can be admired through a cutout in the dial:
Upon close look you notice that the dial is made of a sapphire disk which does not attach to the case band or bezel.
The rationale is that this construction is said to help letting the sound of the case.
Actually, for a good reason since there are actually three stacked cathedral gongs, each of which individually shaped and bent by hand and then annealed at 900°C, cleaned and fired at 500°C.
The gongs are actuated by three individual hammers and strike a C-note for the hours, an E-D-C sequence for the quarters and an E-note for the minutes.
The repeater is actuated by a lever on the left case-side.
The chime is, as far as we can conclude, subtle, well timed and articulated:
On the backside, a marvellous repeating mechanism can be seen.
Note the specific shape on the minute rack’s teeth:
The movement houses two barrels providing a commendable power reserve of 75h. Its reserve is indicated on the back as well:
327 components make up this movement. Bulgari is rightfully proud of having developed and produced this watch in-house.
How does this 43mm watch wear on the wrist? Decide yourselves!
Papillon Voyageur
Bulgari also showed an upgraded version of its classic Papillon watch.
The Papillon displays the time by means of a jumping hour in combination with a rotating minute hand complication.
A second timezone is displayed in the centre of the dial and can easily be adjusted with the two pushers at 11 and 01 o’clock, respectively.
The minute hand wanders from left to right on the lower half of the dial and then starts again on the left.
Its quite fun to watch:
A Girard-Perregaux calibre drives this watch.
Endurer Chronosprint
The Endurer Chronosprint is the sporty complement to the Daniel Roth line. It has a somewhat unique complication consisting of a Grande Date mechanism and a simplified chronograph function which serves to measure long times.
A tricking feature is the black dial with its horizontal Geneva stripes.
Whereas traditional chronographs are generally used to measure short times on two to three counters, the Chronosprint function indicates the hours and minutes by two hands mounted on a single arbour.
One press on an ergonomically notched push-button at 7.30 positions the hands at 12 o’clock and starts the chronograph.
The movement is an automatic one based on Girard-Perregaux:
The watch itself was already presented in 2010, but this year saw the addition of a rubber strap...
... and a (quite well-made and comfortable) steel bracelet:
A very wearable watch, but, while technically advanced, it does not have the carefreeness of the iconic Diagono line (see separate post below).
Nice to see the Endurer Chronosprint is available with a rubber strap
If the rubber strap is as comfortable as the Diagono X-Pro rubber strap (looks like similar construction), it'll make the Endurer an even more comfortable watch to wear on the wrist.
And those who like bracelets will be happy to see a bracelet available for the Endurer as well.
Cheers,
Anthony
The Carillon Tourbillon repeater is exceptional
As you mentioned in a world where tourbillon repeaters are common place, (which is pretty crazy when you think about that sentence) there is something delightfully different about this one. The smokey grey collor and beveled edges of the movements is really something else. I admire the shape and construction of the case and profile and the movement is a real joy to look at. I imagine in person it is outstanding, I even think the size is not too big and just right. There is sometihng about the movement on this one that really does it for me. Bulgari has a lot to be proud at with this one and rightfully so, 30 very lucky people out there will have a watch for the ages thats for sure. Thanks for posting, this is in my top 8 for watches this year.
"tourbillon repeaters are common place"...
that of course was written with a twinkle in the eye. Modern design and construction technologies make it much easier to construct complications (and combinations thereof) which were just impossible a few years ago. That still does not mean its easy, but the obstacles are a few meters lower now.
Which is a tragedy I think, as it diminishes the inherent value of complications, makes it more difficult to appreciate them per se, and - ultimately - may contribute to horofatigue.
(Not only) In this sense the Bulgari Carillon is even more welcome!
Cheers,
Magnus
The Gerald Genta Collection...
This Collection dates back to the late famed watch designer bearing this name, Gerald Genta. Famous mostly for this iconic case design such as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and later the Mickey Mouse watches. Currently, the Octo Collection still bears his name.
NOVELTIES:
- Gerald Genta Octo Maserati
Octo Maserati
The Octo case design was one of the last creations before Gerald Genta was integrated into the Bulgari company. The new version is a co-branding version with the sports car manufacturer Maserati, but a rather subtle and tastefully implemented one (not many are such!):
It’s 45mm case is a sculpture of geometric, complex shapes comprising of 110 facettes all of which are solely made of 45° and 90° angles.
The dial shows a unique implementation of time and chronograph functions: On the top half you find the jumping hours and retrograde minutes, on the bottom half from left to right the chronograph hours, the date as well as the chronograph minutes subdials, respectively.
But where are the Maserati insignia? As we said, subtle and tastefully done! First, take a look at the strap: leather (calf) and stitching are directly taken from the upholstery of the Modena car:
Furthermore, at the back you find a semi-transparent (does not come well in the pictures of this prototype) case back with the Maserati trident:
Overall, a very convincing package that would well appeal not only to owners of Maserati cars:
The BVLGARI BVLGARI Collection...
The collection that first comes to mind when talking about Bulgari watches. Established since 1977!
NOVELTIES:
- BVLGARI BVLGARI Diagono Ceramic
Diagono Ceramic
As the name already hints, ceramics are a major feature of this year’s rejuvenation of this timeless collection. Most prominent beneficiary is the bezel, formerly made with rubber and now crafted from brushed black ceramics. Note how precise the BVLGARI BVLGARI logo is engraved (quite a feat Bulgari rightfully is proud of, considering how hard the material is!):
Also the pushers and the crown inserts are made of the same material:
Strap and strap attachment have been revised to offer better fit and wearing comfort.
Bulgari offers this watch also with pink gold case and in two feminine versions in 37mm with mother-of-pearl dial and steel or pink gold case, respectively.
Movement wise there is not much to report. The Cal. BVL 130 is rated with a power reserve of 42h and a frequency of 28.880 vph, enough data to hint an ETA 2894 modular chronograph engine. At least a very reliable movement with column wheel and vertical clutch.
Overall, a distinctive sporty watch. Not overloaded and sporting a fine balance of design elements and features, just enough to play with a little. Easy to wear in a (not too formal) business environment and later on the Adriatic beach… Its (by today’s standards) modest diameter of 42mm helps a lot, too!
