Patek Philippe

Hi everyone,

I could handle several of Baselworld 2016's novelties lately and I will prepare some reviews for later in the year but I will try to select a few pictures showing what the watches are about.

When we are flooded during two weeks with hundreds of pictures on the net, mixing everything and having sometimes a very quick look at them, it is difficult to judge what they bring and what they would communicate from an owner perspective and regarding the brand's history. We'll have the whole year to think about them and see them in the metal. This last point is mandatory to judge them accurately and I hope that the feedback we have here and that I'll try to give will help people who don't have easily access to them.

I'll start with a reference I like a lot (my favorite with the 5204R and the two new WT refeences to be frank).

I already told you how much I think the 5227 case is a work of art and that it was natural that the case was used for the new Perpetual Calendar generation.

Believe me, the result is breathtaking, very elegant and refined in the metal. It brings a little more modernity from the last 3940 and 5140 generations . Furthermore, the Breguet numerals are maybe the reference on which it works the best.


Here is a wristshot to open the show:

Cheers, Mark

...They appear too clustered too busy here. We realize the cases have gotten bigger from 34-36mm to 39-41mm, so to accommodate the same old movements the dials are laterally spread..that shearing can give us two results - this one with bigger subdials necking each other or subs being too aloof if kept smaller. But what if we met in btwn with these larger subs and smaller cleaner fonts. Its like looking at a gorgeous face with crooked teeth. Beautiful none the less but not perfect

I think that from the 3940, 5140 to the 5327, one can find one of the finest elegant and refined perpetual calendars choice available. Thinness, shape, size, dial decoration etc... it can fit, from one generation to the next one, a wide array of tastes in that field.

I don't have the same vision and impression over the dial balance and fonts etc, but I totally understand people may do. I think that when used to seeing smaller dials and especially 3940's for instance, it is harder to go through the 5327 considering the aesthetical evolutions. And I think that the inverse is also true.

I think that different generations will have certainly different view on that matter and what is good is that they can have the offer available for what they want.

Thanks for sharing your tastes and opinion with us!

Cheers, Mark

"to accommodate the same old movements the dials are laterally spread." An opportunity was missed here to create something.

Well, I think you also bring a point that 3940 people will emphasize. And this is perfectly understandable.

On the other hand, if I take 5327 front pictures and forget the 3940, I think it is perfectly balanced. The thing is that the hour numerals are placed in the 5327 in a room that was not available before in the 3940. Thus, it is not exactly the same dial (whereas the difference was not that obvious with the 5140).

If one is having the 3940 very strongly in his mind, then he may have difficulties in reading the new "room" around the subdials.

On the other way, if someone looks at the 5327 for a long time and comes back straight after that to a 3940 picture, he will logically find that the subdials are "eating" all the numerals area.

That's why I talk about what we are used to seeing and say that the 5327's dial is perfectly balanced, as may look the 3940 for a different reader. It is the interaction with the external edge of the dial that has changed as it is larger in the new reference.


I don't have legibility problems so I can't talk about this point!

As for the 240, it is still 27.5mm in diameter, which is not too small imho. The thing is that when we are used to seeing the subdials of a 3940 coming very close to the dial's external limits (near the flange and stepping on the markers), I imagine you feel as they are too close on the 5327. I dont think they are but the balance is different in both watches. On the other hand, if you consider the room left for numerals in the 5327 and the right place of the subdials on the inner side, then it is the 3940 that seems less balanced as the subdials "eat" the numerals. Only a question of habit.

Each owner/fan will of course find which one he prefers in that respect.

Thanks a lot for your input and nice comments Kari.

Cheers, Mark



This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-04-28 16:36:52

just in the messy sub-dials. In 3940 they were clear and at least for me very readable. In the later versions the numbers are bigger and there's more "stuff" in the sub-dials. For me it kills the balance, beauty and readability.

serves every tastes.

Btw, about the more "stuff" in the subdials, it don't see what you're refering to: aside the early 3940 refs (without the "+" in the leap year subdial), the subdials have not evoloved in terms of number of info (I don't talk about the sizes that indeed have changed) from a later 3940 to a 5140 or 5327.

I've been discussing with several clients lately who told me they prefer the organized 5327's subdials layout, not stepping on the numerals compared to the previous versions which subdials looked too big compared to the indexes that were, hence, cut.

I totally disagree with them as it is an integration I like very much in watches but, you see, people have a very different opinion on that matter. Thus, why I said it was more about taste and what we are used to seeing, rather than absolute references.

Thanks for your detailed opinion Kari, I appreciate that and this also help me looking at watches differently. If I had to make a pick I would rank the 3940 without the "+" first together with the new 5327: my 2 favorite versions of the whole 3 last generations.

Cheers, Mark

- Patek 3940G with the "+":





- Patek 3940J without the "+" (there was also the first series without it):
 

I was more talking about the number of elements (you talked about "more stuff in the subdials") etc...

On the "air" matter, I agree 100% and prefer also the 3940's subdials (3 and 9 o'clock) impression. In fact I prefer the smaller fonts in the 3940 (thus impression of having more room).

As you say and as I said previously, this 3940 - 5140 - 5327 offer leaves a lot of choice to everyone, depending on our tastes and habits, collections etc....

Cheers, Mark

5140 had really weird numerals layout around its moonphase ....

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as it doesn't bother me when I have the watch in hands but, in the 5327, they indeed adopted the 3940's date homogen size all around the moonphase subdial.

Nevertheless, they even improved it in the 5327 by keeping a date font size more in line with the other day/leap texts whereas the date was much bigger in the 3940/5140 than the other wordings/figures in other subdials.

Thus more balance imho in the new 5327 you can see in G and R here below:




...compared to the 3940 here:





Interesting picture input.

Cheers, Mark

 


This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-04-29 05:44:06

and added pictures to illustrate.

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but the irregularity seems to me to be unintentional as its too random and perhaps not realizing this was happening.

There are 3-4 different sz on that subdial there...7-9 are not coherent with rest at all not even the mirror opp 23-25...Similarly, 13-15 are incoherent with 17-19 where the max compression is seen. Then 5-27 are the smallest scripts. That print doesnt even form a proper oval shape around the circular disc....no sense of gradation here.

The Brequet numerals look great but made the dial too busy!

Baton hour markers + this new groove lugs would have been PERFECT !

Your thoughts on such combination?

Cheers

Gordon

This is a watch I greatly enjoyed wearing.

As for the choice between Baton vs Breguet, I must say this is the same question I've been asking myslef concerning the 5396

I prefer the 5327 with Breguet much more than the previous generations but I must say I'm not sure I'll come the to same result when comparing each 5396 Batons and Breguet versions. The batons make the watch purer and a little more classical. The Breguet make it more interesting and with more "fun" as something is happening in the dial. Thus it depends on the watch and how we want to wear them.

They don't look busy to me but that's totally subjective and I think we'll all have different opinion on that matter.

Batons would look nice with the new grooves indeed but I wonder if then the room available between the subdials and the dial's edge wouldn't look too large? The Breguet occupy the room a better way imho. But again that's very subjective!

Thank Gordon for your feedback and input.

Cheers, Mark

Hi Mark,

Wow that's a great watch and an even greater picture!

Love the Breguet Numerals .. Fantastic!

Yes, the Breguet numerals are an excellent choice for this new generation of Perpetual Calendar, epsecially in accordance with the slightly wider case.
It brings much evolution compared to the 2 previous references 3940 and 5140 without overshadowing them. It is now like we have 2 very different offers for anyone looking for a fine and elegant Perpetual Calendar.
Cheers, Mark

I really like 5327 more than the 5140 for sure,The 3940 is nice but small In modern proportions specially for some one with 7+ inch wrist,I think both of the 3940 and the 5327 are well balanced in there own way.But I like the newer version more.
Please try to post more wrist shots ...Thanks again Mark
Best,
Ahmed

I will post more from time to time.

I'm glad to see that diversity among Patek owners/fans. Some are more 3940/5140 and others are on the 5327's side. This is something we can see in other references as well.

I love them both but we all have our favorite nevertheless

Thanks for your comments Ahmed, have a nice week-end.

Cheers, Mark

better than the 3940 IMO. the case is also more modern. I wish they have made the 3 circles similar size for more balance. 

The dial is definitely totally different in terms of spirit and not only a slight evolution as the 5140 was from the 3940. For the case it is even more true.

The dial is more decorated with these numerals and, while it brings IMHO more charm, it is of course less stripped down. Some will like that and how it works with the case, in an homogen way, while others will prefer the cleaner older generations.

Thanks for your interesting input!

Cheers, Mark

Do they come in plain time and date or time only with breguet dial in the patek series. I imagine uncluttered dial in the neighborhood of 38-40 white gold with black dial would look mighty handsome.

Just by judging your picture the successor of the 5140 and 3940 looks like a "standard" watch now and not like the famous marvel of an ultra flat, slim watch.

I have to see it in real first to have the best impression but your picture is telling a lot, already.

It looks like a very nice piece of watchmaking/ jewellery that demands more attention than the previous models.

Thank you for the quick picture.

Best

Moritz

with the 5139, but I understand your point of course.

By the way the 5940 which is still in the collection is 8.6mm (3940 was 8.5mm if I'm not wrong) whereas the 5140 was 8.9mm (I would not have said so before looking at figures). The 5140's bezel is covering the glass's side and upper edge (thus protecting it from shocks compared to the 3940): this certainly gives the impression it is thicker than that.

I think the 5327 remains quite thin (in spite of what the new design may communicate) with 9.5mm (thank you Patrickh for the figure!)). Though the +0.6mm make it in another field from the 5140 and even more so from the 3940 reference.

When I could see the 5327 R and G together with the 5140P, the difference of case shape and its thinner look was what striked most though.

The way the 5140's case looks is really unique, especially compared to the 5327's. The rounded profile is of course sheding even more light on this point compared to the more important work on the 5327's case.

The case of the 5327 is definitely more complicated when considering crafting and design (grooves, change in curve orientation from a lug to the other) and this brings so much in terms of aesthetics.

On the other hand, the pure line of a 3940 and 5140 bring a feeling that is impossible to compete with and that I will miss too... if I want to buy new. Because yes, the watch will always be available in second hand and this is something I appreciate. Having decades of the same thinness would be too much IMHO. I'm glad it will remain specific to a certain period, whithout being impossible to get either because of a much too low production.

Thus, the time of the very very thin PC cases is not behind us yet.

It is always difficult to choose between the immense pleasure of a clean line compared to the pleasure of a more elaborated style. And both are not compatible though.

We'll love to get your opinion when you see it.

Thanks for the comments and interesting thoughts Moritz.

Cheers, Mark


This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2016-04-29 11:28:31

A new alteration should always be a gain and not a loss.

I must say, this year's last hurrah of the 5140 seems to be a knock out ...  I am also exited to see this one soon.

Best

Moritz