Patek Philippe

It occurs to me that, while Patek is updating the sizes of many of their new 3-handed watches to close to 40mm, they have not updated the movements to match. Thus their HW/small seconds models have their seconds hands snugged up close to the center, looking quite awkward. The auto models have the date wheel quite a way into the dial, also looking a bit awkward. These uncomplicated watches cost 25-40,000 dollars each. Does it seem to anyone else that Patek could have afforded to update/upgrade the movements?  In this class and category, physical beauty is almost the whole point of the object, and it is spoiled by their not going the extra mile. I'm disappointed. I wanted to want the 5123, but the movement is not much more than half the diameter of the case. It could easily go into a 25mm womens' watch.

from PP point of view making new cases and fitting them with old movements is a sure money maker. When people snap up PP even if it has a disproportional dial, there is no reason for PP to change its mode of operation. That is why there is a group of PP enthusiasts - including me - who appreciate older/discontinued models, e.g. 3940, 3970, 5050, 5056, 5110, 5125 and 5127 to name a few, all of which represent excellent designs with regard to both aesthetics and right sized movement. The newer versions of these pieces, and there are many many now, are essentially all larger massive metal cases fitted with the same old movements. Now, new watch designs are all about larger cases and the same old movements. 

And I have basically lost all my interests for Pateks and turned my attention to independents. 

Patek has a wonderfully beautiful caliber in their lineup, employed in their 980 series of hunter-style or Savonnette pocket watches. On their website they call it 'Caliber 17''' SAV PS'. At 17 lignes, it's just a hair over 38.5mm and 3.8mm thin. It would fit perfectly in a slim 8-9mm, oversize Calatrava-style case of 42-43mm, exactly perfect for my wrist. I have thought many times about contacting Patek directly to commission a special wristwatch for myself using that Savonnette caliber, a rose gold or platinum case specially machined for it, a white dial with Romans, slightly domed sapphire crystal and flat display-back crystal in a screw-on back, possibly T-lugs... I practically dream about it at night. I have no idea what t might cost, their pocket watches are over $32K US. But it would be unique. I would be willing to forego a lot of other watches for one of those. (Maybe they will read this and take the hint?)

are somewhat limited in size by the size of standard parts which has not changed since early wrist watches of 30mm cases. From there the goal was to go thin over the years and increase the power reserves beyond 24 hours. All this resulted in standardized parts which carry certain known loads and use only so much energy.  If you look at any watch company and note the size of the movements there are mostly 27 to 31mm in size yet they are cased in 40mm plus cases with lots of dead space, in and out. Its not just PP. To increase the size of the movements means greater thickness, larger parts, shorter power reserves and accuracy compromises from increased ratios between the larger heavier parts. In addition, the whole factory would have to be retooled to make the new parts. The technology with the new silicon parts may make the task of making larger movements less expensive and less daunting, but I think the companies are quietly betting large watches are a fad which will pass.

...but consider for a moment a comparison of 2 storied watchhouse, Patek and Vacheron.  While Patek has chosen to recycle their time proved but diameter challanged cal. 215 as the powerplant for their Calatrava 5196, Vacheron has gone a different route entirely with their similarly styled Patrimony Traditionnelle.

Patek wisely chose to hide the petite 22mm cal. 215 behind the solid caseback of their 37mm Calatrava, while Vacheron proudly displays their 29mm cal 4400 thru the saphire caseback of their 38mm Patrimony.  Add to that more than 20 hours of additional power reserve afforded by the larger cal 4400 and you'll soon discover that size does matter.

Otherwise classic and similar styled, basic hour, minute, and small subseconds watches - yet one watchhouse takes the easy road while the other chooses the road less travelled.

Wish that I were able to post a side by side comparison of these 2 models, but a quick google search should suffice.  I know that there are many more examples, but i think this speaks to the issue raised by the OP.

I own watches from each of these makers, and am a great admirer of both, but unless Patek has plans to reintroduce a 33mm Calatrava then I believe the time for a new manual wind movement is long overdue!

 

Actually there's some excellent photos now on the Vacheron Constantin forum on this same site for anyone who's interested.  Easier than a google search.

You propose a good idea.