Comments:
Eight minutes past midnight, it is clear all indications aside the weekday are rapidly moving.
Eleven minutes past midnight: Happy New Year, my beloved GMT Perpetual!!! - Yikes! Why do I have warm champagne in my glass?
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2010-01-02 08:58:50 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2010-01-02 09:02:22
The UN PC is one of Oeschlin' s genious creation.
It is amazing to see how fast the date changes.
Thanks for having taken the time to share this with us, Marcus.
Best,
Nicolas
Thanks for posting this!
Somebody also posted they're UN Perpetual Diver pictures a few posts back. Great stuff.
This is the next UN I'm dying to get!!
Happy New Year!
s
. . . there are tears streaming down my face from laughter! You're a riot, Marcus . . .
Victory ! I spotted this 42mm 18k WG version on Friday, tried it on and got to play with it...Amazing indeed! I was well prepared thanks to your review. The clockwise setting is harder than I expected though even though you'd mentioned the winding in that direction.
I did find it a tad heavy and "big" on my 18cm wrist. They didn't have the 40mm models but that would certainly be a better fit. You do lose these very unusual hands though that will allow for a perfect view of the day and month at all times.
Sticker shock though, €38k for the 42mm and the 40mm is at €29k (possibly negotiable ?). We're not far from Patek territory here and even above the nice Annual Calendars and while the mechanics are probably the best "normal" money can buy, you have to think "investment" at that price level and PP can only be a better one.
As a side note, the deployment clasp was reversed from the usual , they must have read your review ;-)
And you are so right!
Best,
Nicolas
Its finest hour
During the year, several watch complications dominate the watchmaking heaven. Coveted and worshipped alike, tourbillons (at least flying, better two-, three-, multiaxis, or even multiple-tourbillonised), chronographs with at least two split indications, repeaters, that repeat minutes on three chimes at least, better four or ten chimes, striking "La Cucaracha" every quarter of an hour, and the "Star Wars" theme every full hour, and of course astronomical timepieces accurately showing where Proxima Centauri will be in 158,976 years, these highlights of genius and CAD/CAM are the absolute stars of our dreams.
But once a year, no, twice, another group of classic complications, a much more silent and discreet one, is permitted to excel - to draw the envious eyes of all others upon themselves: the perpetual calendars. Every year, at the end of February, and on the 31st of December, the perpetuals have their finest hour: What normally stands still, moves, reflecting the changes of the calendar. Suddenly, mechanisms inactive for a full year, come to life and move hands or disks. Ha!, look at this, tourbillon, who you are helplessly rotating. What do you gain by your rotation period of sixty seconds, captive of your own cage? Or you, repeater, when your ding! is lost in the whoosh! of the rockets shooting up into the sky, and the crackle of the pyrotechnics in the streets? Even if you ding!ding! your full repertoire at midnight, your midnight will always be the same midnight as the other 364 ones!
But the perpetuals make New Year something really special. Let the rest of the family look bestranged at the sight of their relative, forgetting the champagne in the glass, staring with utmost concentration on his watch, only to burst into infrequent laughter and "Yes! The month!!"-shouts. Forgotten the Vienna waltz, forgotten the kisses exchanged by all people celebrating, forgotten the good wishes for the next year ..... what do we, the secret society of perpetual-owners care about the next year? It is the next year's end we are looking forward, since it will be moment when our watch will once again have its finest hour.
To share this wonderful event with you, dear and poor non-perpetualists, I have put together this short pictorial. If my enthusiastic comments are a bit boring for you, you might draw some amusement from the imagination of the worried glances I caught from fifteen people around me, when I took out the camera and briskly stopped our ongoing conversation, only to take pictures of my watch on the table, happily giggling comments like: "Wow! the month! the month is coming! I can see the head already!!"
But once a year, no, twice, another group of classic complications, a much more silent and discreet one, is permitted to excel - to draw the envious eyes of all others upon themselves: the perpetual calendars. Every year, at the end of February, and on the 31st of December, the perpetuals have their finest hour: What normally stands still, moves, reflecting the changes of the calendar. Suddenly, mechanisms inactive for a full year, come to life and move hands or disks. Ha!, look at this, tourbillon, who you are helplessly rotating. What do you gain by your rotation period of sixty seconds, captive of your own cage? Or you, repeater, when your ding! is lost in the whoosh! of the rockets shooting up into the sky, and the crackle of the pyrotechnics in the streets? Even if you ding!ding! your full repertoire at midnight, your midnight will always be the same midnight as the other 364 ones!
But the perpetuals make New Year something really special. Let the rest of the family look bestranged at the sight of their relative, forgetting the champagne in the glass, staring with utmost concentration on his watch, only to burst into infrequent laughter and "Yes! The month!!"-shouts. Forgotten the Vienna waltz, forgotten the kisses exchanged by all people celebrating, forgotten the good wishes for the next year ..... what do we, the secret society of perpetual-owners care about the next year? It is the next year's end we are looking forward, since it will be moment when our watch will once again have its finest hour.
To share this wonderful event with you, dear and poor non-perpetualists, I have put together this short pictorial. If my enthusiastic comments are a bit boring for you, you might draw some amusement from the imagination of the worried glances I caught from fifteen people around me, when I took out the camera and briskly stopped our ongoing conversation, only to take pictures of my watch on the table, happily giggling comments like: "Wow! the month! the month is coming! I can see the head already!!"
22:45 - the weekday disk starts to move
Wow, this seems to last forever. Twenty minutes after it started to move, the weekday indication has only passed the half way. If this speed is kept for all other indications, I will have to sit here until 6 or 7 in the morning ...
At about 23:30 the weekday had fully changed to the next day. Then nothing happened until 23:50, when the leading 3 of the big date started to move, slowly changing to 0.
Suddenly, things are happening quickly: With the big date still developing the next day's date, the month starts to move shortly before midnight.
Only two minutes later, the two numbers of the year, too, show a change.
Only two minutes later, the two numbers of the year, too, show a change.
Eight minutes past midnight, it is clear all indications aside the weekday are rapidly moving.
Eleven minutes past midnight: Happy New Year, my beloved GMT Perpetual!!! - Yikes! Why do I have warm champagne in my glass?
Superbly written and illustrated, Marcus.
The UN PC is one of Oeschlin' s genious creation.
It is amazing to see how fast the date changes.
Thanks for having taken the time to share this with us, Marcus.
Best,
Nicolas
nice post Marcus. i should have done something with mine
there's always the end of the next decade 
best
Graham
Hey! Great series of photos, Marcus!
For those of us who don't own perpetuals it was fun to see yours at work! I would love to own a perpetual one day...some day!
Cheers,
Daos
Wonderful!
Thanks for posting this!
Somebody also posted they're UN Perpetual Diver pictures a few posts back. Great stuff.
This is the next UN I'm dying to get!!
Happy New Year!
s
"La Cucaracha" and the "Star Wars Theme" . . .
. . . there are tears streaming down my face from laughter! You're a riot, Marcus . . .
I Cant wait to get my first perpetual
thx for sharing this beautiful event i am on the hunt for my first
Very impressive ! Need a perpetual too...
...my quest has started too and I keep coming back to your review from 2004 !
Thanks! ....
...After wearing mine continuously since six weeks, I can still underline every word I have written in my review six years ago.
Regards,
Marcus
Regards,
Marcus
Well deserved ! Out to spot one !
And I just realized after posting this that you had to wait 5 years to finally get a hold of it, that's very "brave" of you !
I contacted UN via their website last night and got a reply this morning with addresses of their retailers in Paris so I'm heading out tomorrow to see if I can try on the same model as yours. I saw the UN "booth" in Basel last year but wasn't aware of this stellar piece at the time so I didn't go in. They were also at the "Belles Montres" show in Paris last November and I'd read your article so I was anxious to see this watch, but I didn't have much time so I quickly walked around their booth but they didn't have it. Someone told me they had a perpetual but it was one of the sportier models.
Not that it matters when you wear the watch, but the mitigating factor is that UN watches (or IWC, the other providers of perpetuals) will likely not appreciate over time as a a Patek Philippe would and for a large investment like this it's a bit of a concern. On the other hand there is no PP perpetual in that price range. The 5396 annual calendar would be pretty close though and that's a nice watch too.
They seem to have some decent second hand models for sale in the US (as seen on chrono24.com)
I contacted UN via their website last night and got a reply this morning with addresses of their retailers in Paris so I'm heading out tomorrow to see if I can try on the same model as yours. I saw the UN "booth" in Basel last year but wasn't aware of this stellar piece at the time so I didn't go in. They were also at the "Belles Montres" show in Paris last November and I'd read your article so I was anxious to see this watch, but I didn't have much time so I quickly walked around their booth but they didn't have it. Someone told me they had a perpetual but it was one of the sportier models.
Not that it matters when you wear the watch, but the mitigating factor is that UN watches (or IWC, the other providers of perpetuals) will likely not appreciate over time as a a Patek Philippe would and for a large investment like this it's a bit of a concern. On the other hand there is no PP perpetual in that price range. The 5396 annual calendar would be pretty close though and that's a nice watch too.
They seem to have some decent second hand models for sale in the US (as seen on chrono24.com)
Spotted the 42mm, some thoughts
Victory ! I spotted this 42mm 18k WG version on Friday, tried it on and got to play with it...Amazing indeed! I was well prepared thanks to your review. The clockwise setting is harder than I expected though even though you'd mentioned the winding in that direction.
I did find it a tad heavy and "big" on my 18cm wrist. They didn't have the 40mm models but that would certainly be a better fit. You do lose these very unusual hands though that will allow for a perfect view of the day and month at all times.
Sticker shock though, €38k for the 42mm and the 40mm is at €29k (possibly negotiable ?). We're not far from Patek territory here and even above the nice Annual Calendars and while the mechanics are probably the best "normal" money can buy, you have to think "investment" at that price level and PP can only be a better one.
As a side note, the deployment clasp was reversed from the usual , they must have read your review ;-)
Thanks! I have replied to your other post ....
... that you have added to the original "perpetual affection" thread:
ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com
The hands of the "calssic" version in 38.5 or 40mm are so slim that they do not obstruct the view on the day and months windows for long. Style decision is always difficult, and a purely personal one. Nicolas here loves the "Sonata style", I love the classic one.
Regarding the price: I love the Patek perpetuals, but their technology is eons behind the UN. They are classic, unlegible perpetuals, with tiny hands and a tiny leap year indication; pieces of art in every respect, but not pieces to use. Sorry to say that, but a perpetual I can read only with reading glasses, or a loupe even, is worthless for me. What eventually put me off the otherwise marvelous IWC da Vinci.
The UN perpetual is generally accepted as a class of its own, and as the best perpetual calendar. Unfortunately, this class has its price .... For me, this is a once-in-a-lifetime acquisition I intend to enjoy during all my life.
With best regards,
Marcus
ulyssenardin.watchprosite.com
The hands of the "calssic" version in 38.5 or 40mm are so slim that they do not obstruct the view on the day and months windows for long. Style decision is always difficult, and a purely personal one. Nicolas here loves the "Sonata style", I love the classic one.
Regarding the price: I love the Patek perpetuals, but their technology is eons behind the UN. They are classic, unlegible perpetuals, with tiny hands and a tiny leap year indication; pieces of art in every respect, but not pieces to use. Sorry to say that, but a perpetual I can read only with reading glasses, or a loupe even, is worthless for me. What eventually put me off the otherwise marvelous IWC da Vinci.
The UN perpetual is generally accepted as a class of its own, and as the best perpetual calendar. Unfortunately, this class has its price .... For me, this is a once-in-a-lifetime acquisition I intend to enjoy during all my life.
With best regards,
Marcus
Marcus, have you also...
Marcus,
have you also pointed out that this is the
original UN perpetual and IMHO the one to go for.
original UN perpetual and IMHO the one to go for.
best
Graham
Since "GMT" was specifically mentioned ...
... I did not point out the various non-GMT models. Of course, the original "Ludwig" is a classic per se, but you must not forget the tonneau-shaped "Ludovico", the steel-cased "Acqua Perpetual", and the current "Quadrato", which, however, has the GMT mechanism and I simply had forgotten it ...
Regards,
Marcus
Regards,
Marcus
my fault Marcus, i neglected...
my fault Marcus, i neglected to read the
important bit 'GMT'.
important bit 'GMT'.
best
Graham
love it
Only a true Watchahilic could appreciate this article. I loved the pics. Pete
Your affection is contagious
A very fun post to read-- and browse... and one day I will again have a perpetual. Thank you Marcus.
and one day I will again have a perpetual. Thank you Marcus.Not a decade...
...but remarkable nonetheless
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-01-01 09:53:19
This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2013-01-01 09:53:19
Great to see this late addition to the thread! ...
While the change of a decade is the only chance to see both year disks moving, the annual changeover is spectacular as well, and I have to photograph it every year. Meanwhile, my friends and relatives already are used to me spending midnight with taking pictures, rather than exchanging kisses and sipping champagne.
Happy New Year!
Marcus
Happy New Year!
Marcus
Tend to agree. Tell me one thing, you seem to be under pressure with UN watches!
And you are so right!
Best,
Nicolas
I understand now much better your "finest hour" post...
...ever since I first read your in-depth review on the GMT perpetual circa 6 years ago, I had my curiosity piqued re perpetual watches, and could never quite forget the UN GMT Perpetual, especially after reading your "Finest Hour" post. Had to wait 6 years before the opportunity came along for me to acquire one for myself. Having done so, I had the chance to experience what you have written about. Some pics here along the lines of your original post.
This message has been edited by Edward Wong on 2014-12-31 20:03:19
Some pics here along the lines of your original post.Thank you for all your posts about UN timepieces; your time spent in sharing your insights and experiences with the rest of us is much appreciated. I don't know what your thoughts are about UN currently, but I guess much has changed since your post "Simply the Best" back in 2004. Still, I echo your conclusion then that the GMT Perpetual is the best simple.
I wish you a happy new year for 2015.
Pardon if the pics are not as good on the post; my first time posting, and my first time taking pics of my watch.
Kind regards,
Ed
This message has been edited by Edward Wong on 2014-12-31 20:03:19
Edward, a pleasure to welcome you here, on the UN forum and with...
Such a Watch!
Looking forward to reading more from you, in 2015!
Nicolas
Dear Ed, thank you for this nice pictorial, which indeed came handy ...
... since a fellow owner had shown me pics of the annual change on his GMT Perpetual, and there, the sequnce lasted for more than twelve hours. I found your pictures and could show him that such a long duration is not the rule.
Your model is strikingly beautiful! I always like the smoke-grey dial, but with the rose gold case metal, it looked less good than the more traditional silver one. Combined with white gold, however, it is the absolute winner!
Regards,
Marcus
Your model is strikingly beautiful! I always like the smoke-grey dial, but with the rose gold case metal, it looked less good than the more traditional silver one. Combined with white gold, however, it is the absolute winner!
Regards,
Marcus
Thanks Nicolas...and you are welcome, Marcus...
...I am glad that the pics have been helpful.
Thanks for the compliments, both of you. Marcus, you are right, the silverized dial fits much better with the rose gold case. Incidentally, I was originally eye-ing that before I came upon this which I acquired.
Am curious, though, that a fellow owner has the experience of the annual date change taking more than 12 hours...I hope that there is not something amiss with his piece.
Wish you all a happy new year in 2015.
Best regards,
Edward
You haven't by chance seen the post in a Swiss watch forum ...
... with the pictures of this indication change? I replied there, linking to your pics, to show that such a long period is not common.
Marcus
Marcus