Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin has long been considered one of the “Big Three” watchmakers along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet. Each brand has been expertly creating timepieces of the highest order for over a century. When I collected vintage watches my tastes in horological appreciation have always been most sated by the models of Vacheron Constantin, which, more so than with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, have a flair for the bold, especially in regards to case, lug, and dial design

When it comes to the chronographs I would always choose a Vacheron Constantin 4178 with its tear drop lugs and square button pushers, or the ultra-rare 6087, with its “cornes de vache” lugs, round button pushers, and screwed-down case back over any of the fine designs from the other Big Three watchmakers.

And even when it comes to the calendar watches, I too preferred the designs from Vacheron Constantin (References 4461 and 4240) over the legendary Patek Philippe 3448 and 3450, though I wished that Vacheron Constantin had competed more directly by making a perpetual calendar complication.

There is one complication combination on the vintage side, however, that Patek Philippe has all to itself, the perpetual calendar chronograph. Though extremely rare, models such as the 1518 and 2499 are beautiful, useful, legible, and desirable. I only wished that Vacheron Constantin made them starting in the 1940’s as well.

It wouldn’t be until 2000 that Vacheron Constantin would produce a true competitor with manual winding chronograph and perpetual calendar, but it would be worth the wait! One of the two crown jewels of the new Malte collection, the other being the Malte Tourbillon, the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph represented a triumph of design


The movement is Vacheron Constantin’s workhorse manual winding caliber 1141, based on a Lemania ebauche that also powered the Historiques Chronograph, to which Vacheron  Constantin’s watchmakers added their own calendar module


The case is 39 mm in diameter, and pleasantly chunky at 14 mm thick and was available in either in 3N yellow gold or platinum. A hinged case back offered the owners a wonderful opportunity for a custom engraving and the chance the view the finely finished movement.


In 2007, the Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph was updated for a limited run as part of the Excellence Platine collection. The case expanded to 42 mm and the platinum dial was give a sand blasted Finnish. The movement is the same calibre 1141 QP as in the predecessor.


the watch is thinner than the original, and does away with the hinged case back cover.


There were only fifty made.

The focus of Vacheron Constantin at SIHH 2009 was the extension of the Patrimony Traditionnelle line, originally introduced in 2007, with new complications, and among them was a perpetual calendar chronograph, now in a 43 mm case:


True to the times, the yellow gold of the original Malte design has given way to the rose gold case preferred by today’s watch buyers.

Finally, in 2011, the platinum cased watch has been offered with a ruthenium finished dial that distinguishes Vacheron Constantin’s platinum watches from its white gold cousins.

The next step that we collectors anticipate will be the introduction of an entirely in-house chronograph movement with the addition of the perpetual calendar.


Bill Lind
VC Forum Moderator

 

The first and the second perpetual ccalendar chrono from VC made me dream for a long, very long time.

These are watches with character and elegance.

Maybe they were late in producing such a combination of complications, but theey did well with their two first PC Chrono.

I will come back later on this topic, as I prepared a post dedicated to it. Just have to find it in my mess.

Best,

Nicolas

...dial layout but don't suppose there is much chance of a return to that case size

 

Ed

I agree with eelstub, that I much prefer the first version in 39mm where I prefer the balance of the dial.  I think I can live with the thickness having tried it before without the means to buy it at the time.  I would find great enjoyment in having the open up the half hunter case back to see the movement as I do with my PP5059.  Its a great feeling.  If I can live the with balance of case width and height on that I can certainly love the first Malte Perp Chrono!

This has without peers the best moonphase of all watchs in my opinion.  This watch is incredible in all metal colours.  Rare for me to say so!

Happy Watching and much appreciate the write up Bill,

justindependent

i certainly hope , the new chronograph caliber , without the limitation of lemania's size, can have the balanced dial layout of the first perpetual chronograph you have shown . and hopefully and wishfully, draws inspiration from the designs of their heritage pieces. that will be my grail and i will porbably sell a few pieces of my collection to fund it.

bill, thank you of the reminder that a chronograph movement is on its way and a good article.

 

What could be better than spending some time with these VC perpetual chronographs?

I did not realize that the original Malte Perpetual Chronograph was 39mm.  I, too, would like to see a return to that size.  14mm does seem a bit chunky for a 39mm watch, but was the reduction in thickness (to what size, by the way?) for the 47212 due completely to the lack of the hunter hinged case back cover, or was the watch put on a diet for other reasons? 

I think many of us are waiting to see what an in-house chronograph movement will do to the various lines of Vacheron.  I suspect that a new choronograph caliber wil lbe used most often in the Overseas line, but without a display case, the size of the movement is not such a big issue, and VC might well choose to create a smaller caliber that will fit, say, 38-40mm cases without overcrowding the dial and also filling out a display caseback nicely.  I have to say, I find the dial and the rear view of the original Malte Perptual Chronograph as well as the simple ref. 47101/47111 chronographs more harmonious.  At the same time, when I am staring at that sculpted moonphase, not much else seems to matter.  ;-)

Regardless, VC reserves the use of the best moonphase in the business for these perpetual chronographs.  I would really like to see a simple moonphase watch with the sculpted moon disc.

Thanks for this great overview, Bill.  These perpetual chonographs remain aspirational for me, but a guy can dream, can't he?

Best,

respo

 

 

 

I like each version, but settled on this one.

Gary

It's spectacular. I chased one for a while and burned out... then other watches took over... I'm happy with my journey, but I must have dreamed of this chrono-perpetual for at least 3 years before the independents stole me off the scent... Incredible VC Hewitgar.

And thank you for your kind words.

Thanks Bill, for more views of that lovely moon phase peeking out...

done the moonphase to add some dimension to it.