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Urban Jürgensen Reference 8 from 1999
I first saw a UJ in the flesh when I went to pick up my Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda GT last year. It was the delicious Reference Big 8, which member IM6 recently posted. I was smitten.
So began a few months of exploration - via UJ - into the overlapping influences and legacies of totemic watchmakers from the 18th and 19th centuries. The journey continued to the present day, the revival of the company and its eventual return to full Danish ownership. There is so much to admire, all of which culminates in work of exquisite quality.
Here are photos of the watch that I decided would be my first UJ: the 1999, 37mm Reference 8 in 18K yellow gold. It's currently in transit and the images you see are courtesy of @philostan from IG. So that there can be no misunderstanding, I have watermarked the photos accordingly.
I don't want to recant what members of this forum might already know about this wonderful watchmaking enterprise, but am happy to share my personal impressions based on any views you might wish to share. Of course more will follow once the watch itself arrives in a few weeks' time.
The hands are gorgeous...
...and I'm not an expert on guilloche, but they seem to rival Breguet in that department.
One of the characteristics that distinguishes UJ's craft is its insistence on hand-finishing dials from a single block of silver.
If I understand correctly, preferred materials these days include white gold or similar composites, which are then coated in a film of silver. Working with solid silver is more complex, and subject to mishap, as it's a softer metal. Silver also becomes patinated over time, which brings warmth to the dials of older watches.
The hands are polished with fine-grained diamond encrusted paper, then thermally blued to a shade that UJ calls its own. The observatory eye is asymmetric and helps to taper the hand from centre to tip. The observer's eye is gently guided by it towards the perimeter of case. It's these minute touches that make the watch a quiet, satisfying viewing experience.
The Breguet comparisons are understandable. Urban Jürgensen spent a year under the tutelage of Abraham-Louis Breguet, and also John Arnold and Ferdinand Berthoud. He went on to build superlative marine chronometers, and his writings on watchmaking became reference points for successive generations of watchmakers.
This watch was produced a decade or so after the passing of then owner Peter Baumberger and chief watchmaker Derek Pratt. Nevertheless, it carried forward their commitment to reviving classical traditions, down to its use of an enhanced Frédéric Piguet 1160 movement.
On a personal note, its proportions are part of its appeal. I have a few gold watches, and prefer them sub-40mm. The compactness allows me to enjoy them without the risk of them appearing ostentatious.
The hands are polished with fine-grained diamond encrusted paper, then thermally blued to a shade that UJ calls its own. The observatory eye is asymmetric and helps to taper the hand from centre to tip. The observer's eye is gently guided by it towards the perimeter of case. It's these minute touches that make the watch a quiet, satisfying viewing experience.
The Breguet comparisons are understandable. Urban Jürgensen spent a year under the tutelage of Abraham-Louis Breguet, and also John Arnold and Ferdinand Berthoud. He went on to build superlative marine chronometers, and his writings on watchmaking became reference points for successive generations of watchmakers.
This watch was produced a decade or so after the passing of then owner Peter Baumberger and chief watchmaker Derek Pratt. Nevertheless, it carried forward their commitment to reviving classical traditions, down to its use of an enhanced Frédéric Piguet 1160 movement.
On a personal note, its proportions are part of its appeal. I have a few gold watches, and prefer them sub-40mm. The compactness allows me to enjoy them without the risk of them appearing ostentatious.
Thanks for some of the background
I have always wondered (may be a personal thing), what are the relationships/influences of UJ vs KV? Call me shallow but I've always thought from an aesthetics point of view (the hands and guilloche dials at least) they're very similar; the lugs, case shape and movement decorations are very different, I know, but as a watch wearer the first point of focus is usually the dial.
Have always wondered if it's just coincidence or if there are actually more stories behind that.
Have always wondered if it's just coincidence or if there are actually more stories behind that.
The detent movement conceived by Derek Pratt in the mid-2000s was built, finished and regulated by KV after Pratt's passing in 2009. It's the basis for the watch that won at the 2014 GHPG.
I believe that KV also has a Reference 2 in his personal collection, so the connection between UJ and his work is more than just a coincidence.
Ah thanks for the insights!
Just knew there must be some sort of connection there - now it makes me want both UJ and KV even more lol
Congratulations! A very fine watch indeed...
I recently acquired a UJ Ref. 2 perpetual calender from start/mid 90's. It's build upon a Frederic Piguet 71. Derek Pratt developed the perpetual module which is very finely finished.
It's dial, hands and case are sesond to none. So beautiful!
Cheers!
The Ref. 2 is a simply magisterial watch.
Close-up photographs and macros have their role, but there is nothing like observing and holding pieces as exquisite as these in the palm of the hand or on the wrist. It's one reason why I prefer my nicer watches - especially those in golds - to be sub-40mm. That gorgeous sea of barleycorn guilloché handworked with a century-old machine, the proportion and distribution of the complications... stunning.
Correction: The guilloché on the dial is 'Grains d’Orges'. The barley corn is present on the small seconds sub-dial.
Huge Congrats (in advance) thats one elegant and beautiful UJ
I really like the overall look of the watch , those hands and lugs are so gorgeous 👌🏻😘
Looking forward to see your pics soon
Looking forward to see your pics soon
Huge congratulations on acquiring this sublime piece!
I’m a huge fan of UJ, I love the history, the gorgeous pocket watches they created, but the new dimensions are a bit brave for my wrist size! Fantastic dial and case work.
Yours is an absolute beauty! Enjoy in good health...
Zsolt.
Yours is an absolute beauty! Enjoy in good health...
Zsolt.
Thank you. Perhaps like you, I prefer the classical sizing of watches that seek to emulate the past
This is what led me to UJ watches from before the current catalogue. It came down to the utterly magnificent Reference 2 perpetual calendar and this 'simpler Reference 8. Glorious as the former is, I didn't have the appetite (or budget!) for the former so was more than happy to find the latter at the same time. There aren't too many of these in the wild, so I'm more than happy. And yes, the histories of the company - past and present - make their watches an important cog in horological history too.
A beautiful watch, many congratulations.
Question for you, and perhaps our Danish friend who shared is beautiful UJ, at which point did the text on the dial no longer include “Copenhagen”?
I would also fall into a similar thinking re gold watches, in general preferring a smaller case. Although I have conceded to 40mm in some instances.
Hello and thank you. My uneducated guess is that the 'Copenhagen' banner existed on references released before UJ returned to full Danish ownership.
As you've correctly noticed, it doesn't appear on any of the current catalogue.
I'm speculating that this is a company's attempt to connect back to a heritage that was in reality a little beyond its contemporary self. In other words, an act of product differentiation through branding. This would be rather like Bvlgari stamping 'Roth' twice on the dials of some of its Daniel Roth watches after the man had left the premises.
This is just a hunch. I would not be surprised if there is a better explanation.
I'm speculating that this is a company's attempt to connect back to a heritage that was in reality a little beyond its contemporary self. In other words, an act of product differentiation through branding. This would be rather like Bvlgari stamping 'Roth' twice on the dials of some of its Daniel Roth watches after the man had left the premises.
This is just a hunch. I would not be surprised if there is a better explanation.
Regarding "Copenhagen" on the dial...
I don't know for sure. I will ask John Knudsen who wrote the Jürgensen dynasty book, which I can highly recommend.
Being a resident of Copenhagen I of course find it a small part of the enjoy ment ;-)
Being a resident of Copenhagen I of course find it a small part of the enjoy ment ;-)
Much appreciated. I've spent my watch career to date skirting around the foothills. Nothing wrong with that - it's been hugely rewarding.
That makes this latest catch particularly special: I feel as though I've earned and educated my way into this moment, rather than leapfrogged into it without a proper journey.
UJ make some sensational pieces. Always liked their design language and exquisite guilloché dials 👍
I think so too. My personal journey is reaching some interesting nooks, and I'm thoroughly enjoying it as a learning experience
Beautiful piece with amazing craftsmanship! A pleasure for the eyes! Thank you for sharing
Thank you for sharing your appreciation. I've warmed to maisons that make so few watches they don't have to tout the 'LE' nature of their production runs
That made finding one of these in the wild - pre-owned of course - all the more pleasing. Best regards.
Excellent choice, huge congrats !
I think you have chosen the perfect iteration in 37 mm size, and the yellow gold has a touch of vintage flair that will match perfectly with the look of this UJ. Looking forward to seeing the pics of your actual watch when you receive it 