Comments:
Price pulls a business card from an inside coat pocket and holds it up for their inspection: "PAUL OWEN, PIERCE & PIERCE, MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS." Bateman swallows, speechless. The sound in the room dies down and all we hear is a faint heartbeat as Bateman stares at the magnificent card.
BATEMAN (V.O.): Look at that subtle off-white coloring. The tasteful thickness of it. Oh my God, it even has a watermark...
His hand shaking, Bateman lifts up the card and stares at it
until it fills the screen. He lets it fall. The sound returns to normal.
The most beautiful chronograph!
Beauty is subjective and I have never really been impressed with chronographs as their dials were either too cluttered with the sub dials and various scales, or the watches have been too thick,. My threshold for thickness is quite ruthless at 10mm as I do not have a large wrist and when a watch is too thick, it appears to be sticking out of my wrist.
Sundays are usually safe to browse at the watch blogs but not tonight with Watches and Wonders beginning tomorrow. I was totally bowled over when I set my eyes on the latest De Bethune DB8. For a start, it does not even look like a chronograph with its simple and elegant dial. It is a monopusher and even at 42.2mm, the watch will not wear large due to the short lugs. Best of all this watch is only 9.2mm high - now when was the last time a chronograph was released at below 10mm in height?! The case is in titanium, a metal that suits lightweight me.
I have registered my interest and am happy to join the presumably long waiting list. Oh yes, it is priced at 85,000 CHF which might seem steep to many but i know of time only watches priced more so the pricing seems 'reasonable' for this watch which I believe is a tribute to the early De Bethune watches from two decades ago. Well done De Bethune on this splendid effort!
What a piece!
That movement is stunning. I cannot see any pushers - is the chronograph operated via the crown?
Best of luck with the wait, I hope it does not end up too long
Thanks Vinnie!
Yes it is a monopusher so the chronograph function is operated via the crown. A perfect example of 'less is more'! I would happily wait a few years for this masterpiece - the wait adds to the desirability of the watch and final ownership experience.
Hi Sham
Interesting to hear your preference for thickness. For me the lug to lug measurement is more crucial though. For smaller wrists, preferably this measurement should be no more than 49mm, and also depends on how curved down the lugs are. Never had an issue with thickness, for example the datograph. It sits tall but due to the overall lug to lug profile and size being sub 40mm, the wearability is great. My concern with De Bethune’s chronograph is that at 42mm and in absence of a wider bezel, it will feel larger on the wrist.
Best
Gatsby
Best
Gatsby
Hi Gatsby!
Thank you for your input. The lug to lug size is crucial I agree and for me 48mm would be the maximum which is coincidentally the lug to lug length of my incoming 42.2mm Frodsham. I am quite uncomfortable wearing thick watches simply because they are more likely to catch something and I am pretty careful with my watches. I even have had my favourite restaurant in Kuala Lumpur install cushion pads under the table to ensure that my watches are protected when I am seated! 
Absolutely stunning mono pusher photograph!
I also love it and these ogive-shaped lugs are simply superb.
But the diameter is 42.4mm if I am not mistaking and I thought you consider only restrained size case for you have a chicken wrist size just like me 
What a beautiful watch front and back side, a feast for the eyes as always with DB!
Hello Mike!
I ordered a Frodsham in 2021 and it measures 42.2mm. When I tried it on last year, I was pleasantly surprised how well the watch fitted on my wrist thanks to the short curved lugs. This De Bethune also has short curved lugs which will contribute to its wearability.
The Frodsham on my small wrist.
The Frodsham on my small wrist.
Ahhh Sham…
I tried on the watch in London last year. The prices are going to go through the roof on this one…. I cringe at the thought of how much I am going to pay at the end of my waiting…
Best
Gatsby
Best
Gatsby
You tried on the DB8 chronograph monopusher last year?
Lucky you! The wait on a desirable timepiece for me will always be worth it. I waited almost 6 years for the RW Smith Series 1 and equally as long for the Charles Frodsham watch so I am prepared for a long wait.
Ah yes!
If you ordered one last year, I think you should be getting it in 2029 or 2030 depending on when during 2022 you ordered it. I am partly guilty for your long wait as I have managed to introduce four of my friends to the brand so far. And yes, thank goodness for the refundable deposit offered because although I have no intention to cancel my order, one might have to reconsider if prices increase by a substantial amount.
Great news
It appears a lot of consideration was given to the dial layout and avoiding common modern chronograph pitfalls, such as sub-registers that are squished at the centre of the dial. It is really a pet peeve of mine. The use of the larger minutes sub-register reminds me of the Patek annual calendar chronograph, but the execution is much cleaner here. The dial is close to perfect aesthetically, but I do note the absence of fractional measurement ticks near the 30 second mark.
Chunkiness is another common pet peeve with mechanical chronographs, so I can appreciate your threshold for thickness. The power reserve was an issue with the original DB 8. It has been increased from 38 hours to 60 hours.
It looks to me as though the movement is sitting in stylish movement ring, such that DeBethune could later use the same movement inside a smaller case, with a smaller 30 or 45 minute sub-register. The brand has a track record of listening to its clients, but I'd have a hard time passing on this one to ask for a smaller diameter.
My impression is the updated DB 8 is functionally and aesthetically improved over the original. By a significant margin. If you missed out on the original, regret has turned into opportunity. For those who complain most of the watches today seem to be looking back on their history, this is a stylish and thoroughly modern dress chronograph.
Thank you for your informative reply!
I am glad we share similar sentiments when it comes to chronographs. Although many of the new releases have not appeared yet, I dare say this De Bethune is going to be one of the highlights of Watches and Wonders.
Something about this reminds me of the business card scene in a movie...
Price pulls a business card from an inside coat pocket and holds it up for their inspection: "PAUL OWEN, PIERCE & PIERCE, MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS." Bateman swallows, speechless. The sound in the room dies down and all we hear is a faint heartbeat as Bateman stares at the magnificent card.
BATEMAN (V.O.): Look at that subtle off-white coloring. The tasteful thickness of it. Oh my God, it even has a watermark...
His hand shaking, Bateman lifts up the card and stares at it
until it fills the screen. He lets it fall. The sound returns to normal.
What an analogy Patrick!
Well, this watch has had the same impact on me. I might even forgo the Bugatti Baby ll to help finance the purchase of the De Bethune. Yes I know, that is one huge sacrifice but that is how highly I rate this latest offering from De Bethune.
Thanks Patrick!
I know how partial you are to the Bugatti but when one is not hyper rich, something has to give when contemplating the purchase of an expensive timepiece. I actually like it that way because it makes me appreciate every purchase. Perhaps I am being short sighted here but I feel that if I had all the money in the world to buy anything I wanted, I would not be able to appreciate the item as much as if it was harder to obtain.
Thank you David for saying so.
The watch is ideal for anyone who likes simple, legible and understated dials.
No contest to be honest
The Biver triumphs with its complications but the design (let's forget about the price!!) may be deemed surprisingly unappealing to many.
Yes that is correct!
Many chronograph owners rarely use the functions on their watches. This is more than enough for my needs. More importantly is the elegant and simple dial, thin case and shape of the lugs and the well finished movement for me.
Thanks a lot!
For me, it is the dial of the watch that matters the most since this is what we see the most of, and also how well it fits on one's wrist.
Thank you my good friend!
I purposely decided not to be in Geneva to avoid being tempted by any new pieces but such is the allure of the De Bethune that it is a must have for me! Unfortunately, I am not sure if I may be allocated one but I shall try my best. The watch looks great on you and you should get one too to add to your superb collection of independents. Thanks for the well taken photos and please take care!
I think its a bit of the same like the DB10 for me
But overall a amazing and beautiful DB 👌🏻 hope you will get one my friend