Horological Meandering

Hi All,

I am looking to make a moonphase watch my next purchase and have researched many and it seems that the two that attract me the most are the IWC Perpetual in rose gold with the black face...and / or the Breitling Montbrilliant Olympus which comes in red gold as a limited edition.

I find the IWC a pretty comprhensive watch and appreciate the Northern and southern Hemisphere applications of the moon.

Then the Breitling, while not as much watch does have the circular slide rule which could be useful.

I would appreciate any comment on these two watches as to their readibility, practicality etc.

I would also like to see any photos of alternative suggestions.

Kindest regards,

jack

You would notice that the IWC is of much higher quality.  It also utilizes an inhouse movement which happens to be one of the best automatic perpetual movements ever made.

If price is not an issue, I would definitely suggest picking up the IWC.

Thanks SteveH...

I agree and I think IWC is where my preference lies...as I understand there are none in Australia and so to see one I have to order one...or go to HK or Singapore. I do not like to buy without seeing the product.

The Brietling is here and available...but I have patience and for this watch I will be sure and may be enjoy a week overseas. It keeps the wife happy to have a holiday.

Kindest regards

Jack

to my eyes, it is vastly more artistic, a 'deeper' watch. However, I am not saying the Breitling lacks substance. But the IWC seems to me to be, very definitively, the finer timepiece on all levels.

IWC, my friend, without any hesitation...

You'll get with the IWC a perpetual calendar, and a serious one!

I love the North /  South Moonphase on this model.

Since you're looking for a Moonphase, I'd say that the choice of a perpetual calendar, even if more expensive, is a better choice, IMO.

If you're not stuck on a perpetual, you can also consider the Lange 1 Moonphase, a very elegant watch!

 

If money is not a poblem, the perpetua Lange is a nicer choice... A rare beast, but very nice , elegant, and maybe underated is the GP WW TC Perpetual Calendar...I really love it!!! Why not also a PP Nautilus 5712? Sporty, with an original look, this may be another interesting option! Even if, for me, one of the sexiest PP Moonphase is the Celestial... Some Vacheron Constantin, now...Exclusive, expensive but very exciting... My favourite... Another nice bird: An esoteric Perpetual, now, made by JLC: In a more normal presentation: Available also in Rose Gold, this may be an interesting and elegant option, as you have a PC, 8 Days Power Reserve and an original display of the moonphase... And the last, but not least, the De Bethune wqith its 3 dimensionnal moonphase, one of the most stunning! But sadly I don't have any pics of it... Hope this help. best. Nicolas

Some nice ones there...some beyond my budget.

Many thanks,

kindest rgeards,

Trevor

Between the two watches, IWC wins by a mile....there is no question about it. A couple of his suggestions (e.g. VC Toledo and Lange 1 Moonphase) are excellent. Most accurate moonphase watches miss 1 day per 122 years. 

The IWC Perpetual is a fine watch. In my opinion, there are only two flaws:

1. It is thick. You need a rather big wrist for it. But I presume you have already taken this factor into consideration.

2. If you need to reset the date/moonphase/month/leap year, it's very cumbersome, unlike some other perpertuals. for example, if you need to set it forward (e.g. you stopped wearing it for some time and the watch then stopped), then it's fine. But if you accidentally messed up the dates and need to set it backwards, then you need a rocket scientist to help you.

 

Hi Samwan,

Thanks for your advise  ...I think VC is a beautiful brand...and also the Lange but the small dial on the timekeeper of the Lange is not for my eyesight.

I accept and appreciate what you say about adjusting the IWC and dificulty if set forward and needs to be wound back.

It seems that most opinion is for the IWC and that is good with me...my wrist is big and I like 39mm watches...but I have a Breitling Seawolf Avenger as a work watch and it is about 44mm by 17mm from memory...about the same size as the IWC...but being in Titanium it is not so heavy ...I tink the IWC is around 162 gms.

Many thanks and kind regards,

Jack

 

This message has been edited by justpen on 2008-07-16 02:49:45

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. . . with it's laterally bifurcated dial . . .



. . . and delightful in-house movement . . .



[photos courtesy of Hugh L]

. . . 42 mm vs 39 mm, but in precious metal only . . .



[photo courtesy of Jocke]

g

. . . shown here on Gerd's wrist has to be the quintessential version. Cordially, Art

The moonphase is unique and great looking!!!  I love mine:

As someone else already observed, it wears large.  That being said, I have a small wrist and it fits fine.  The OEM strap is a bit too light.  I purchased a Camille Fournet that is slightly darker and a perfect compliment.

I also love the moonphase on my Roger Dubuis Hommage Perpetual:

Lastly, someone mentioned the JLC Perpetual.  The current 8 Day is a manual wind, which I think is nuts for a perpetual.  I have the automatic Master Grande Memovox Perpetual and it has a good looking moonphase:

Regards,

Craig

i havent got any pics but it can be set to the MINUTE not just the day and the moon is much larger than on other watches. to add to the piece he also does one with meteorite dial.

here's a pic i've just got off the website. 

its worth visiting the website and reading up about it. ok its not a perp, but it is one heck of a moonphase

Graham

Hi Grahame,

How are you/

That is not for me.....I am too conventional...but having said that.....that is one hell of a watch and the moonphase is really a Moonphase...the fact it has a space rock dial is also awsome...thanks for the picture and info...

Kindest regards,

Jack

Hi again Grahame,

Well I appreciate natural things...like Sandstone, Marble, granite....give me a solid cube of brass and I will love it more than a gold plated cube of the same brass...the fact that that watch has a decent size moon is one thing .....making the dial from a piece of outer space is something that grabs me...but then comes my conventional side...the booring part of me...it must be natural..classic...and traditional.

That is the cross that I bear.

kindest regards,

Jack

No message body

Hi Craig, Thanks for your info and photos on the JLC & IWC in particular.

Although it is the IWC that I prefer and all advice seems to push the IWC as a great watch, I checked out the JLC as it has been in the back of my mind also...Tell me please....is the deploymnet clasps shown on the photos you sent of the IWC the original IWC deployment clasp or did you put this on when you changed the strap?

Kindest regards,

Jack

Fr.Xavier

Sorry no pics to hand, but if you do a forum search for:

Paul Gerber Cal 33

De Bethune DBS

you will see two lovely examples.

 

Marc.

Fr.Xavier

Exactly this one!

One of the nicest 3D Moonphase I've ever seen!

Best.

Nicolas

That is an attractive watch...but finding their website is not so easy...unless Gooogle has gone to sleep.

I found a few of their watches but not as nice as the one you present...then I found one in Gold...the very same...Very nice watch!!!!!!...but finding the link to their site is not a happening thing...I will keep lookijng...and then look for prices.

Many thanks  for your input and help..

Kindest regards

jack

On the rather expensive side , and this on a more modest price th GP vintage 1945 perpetual

both are extremely precise and beautiful...
After this wide selection the Purists gave you, if IWC and Breitling are in your shortlist, go for the IWC...
Except that IMO it is a more good watch it shows the moon phase for the South hemisphere, and as you live in Australia it is perfect...
Your friend
Tassos

Hi Tassos,

The Breguet 5327BA is a very nice watch..but it is not unlike my Reviel du Tsar in looks.... and I already have three Breguets...they are all exceptional in my eyes...but.... they are all yellow gold.... all  with beautiful silver dials.... and all have the beautiful blue Breguet hands....like all things in life if we get too much of a good thing we take them for granted..besides I don't want to become a Breguet Stockist or Dealer.

I now need some colour and contrast in my life and the IWC, Breitling and JlC look like the final contenders.

I think the IWC Perpetual in Rose Gold with black dial is winning this race.....but I will possibly have to travel to Singapore to see one in the metal....Kong has offered me a welcome...I hope he enjoys a cold drink in a nice bar... and also my wife and daughter will love  the trip...I will love the food....and my wife will not complain too much if I just happen, by accident, to buy a watch while I am there..I delude myself but live in hope..she will love me for my taste.

Kindest regards my ciber friend,

Jack

 

This message has been edited by justpen on 2008-07-17 05:31:14

..also the moon in the correct phase for the southern hemisphere...
Be well dear friend..
Tassos

I have a slightly different version of the IWC which is slightly smaller (42.3mm) than the original and only has one moon. Mine is the 5022 in white gold with a hard to capture ardosie/gray dial. Get one, you won't regret it

Thanks for your adviced and comments.

I went to a function at my AD's last night and touched and held the Breitling Navtimer Olympus.

It was a beautiful red gold limited edition watch, with a magnificent relief of the Leon Breitling factory on the case back. The circular slide rule was clear enough to read and the dial and hands ...very nice.

What I did not like so much was the straight sided tank type case which shape seemed to acuentate the thickness.

Now I wat to find and touch an IWC Perpetual....

Thanks for all your comments.

kindest regards,

Jack