Horological Meandering

It's Watch Week Time in Manhattan!  Various brand boutiques which line Madison Avenue have grouped together again for the third year to host this event.  I had only a few hours in the Big Apple but I managed to visit a few stores to see some special pieces which were made available only this week.

My first stop was at the Chopard Boutique where I was lucky enough to see the SuperFast models.

These models are obviously inspired by automotive design. Mr. Scheufele's team has successfully combined his two passions: motor racing and horology.

The Arena case with its sloping case back to highlight the new in-house movements from Chopard's own manufacture.

The Chopard Madison Avenue boutique exclusive Mille Miglia GT with the blued hands

An eight-day desk clock which I would love to have

A larger clock made for the Madison Ave Boutique which was not for sale

As always it is a treat to see the Lunar One...the only watch in the world honored with the PuristSPro Purity Prize.

Three special watches are at the boutique for PuristS to examine.  The LUC Tribute.

The LUC XP Urushi Snake.  This is the first specimen here in the United States.  The dial is truly amazing, no words can describe the various shades of glitter, the vibrancy of the colored laquer...I now understand why Mr. Masumura is considered by Japan as a living national treasure.

By far the Chopard model which captured my heart was the LUC XP Skeletec, a perfect mix of traditional and modern watch design elements...more refined than the Chopard Tech Twist.

Next, I wondered into the boutique of a brand that I have not followed for a long time.  I don't know why it dropped off my radar screen, but the visit changed my mind and I look forward to seeing their novelties at this year's Basel Fair.  Anyone guess which brand it is?

They actually had a wall clock version of the model which I am saving for my wife.

Of course being a Jaquet Droz fan, I gravitated towards the Ref.5247.  What impressed me was the one-piece grand-feu dial with the sunken counters and the sharpness of the printing.

The Breguet Marine Royale alarm is a substantial piece.  THICK and HEAVY in rose gold.

My two favorites from the Boutique...one way out of my range, the other just right.  The Tradition is the less often seen automatic version.

Three "oldies but goodies" which highlight Breguet's timeless style.  What looked good centuries ago, still looks good today.

 

What struck me about the Breguet boutique was the fact that in every showcase there were tourbillons...more tourbillons here than any other store I have visited in the past ten years.  This is definately a place to visit for anyone interested in this specific complication.

Right next door to Breguet was the Blancpain Boutique.  I felt right at home after seeing the Orrey tucked away on a shelf.

Of course my home doesn't have one of these large standing hall clock!

Simply one word...BEAUTIFUL.  I think every brand has tried to incorporate a moonphase and triple calendar complication into their model line .  However I think Blancpain's Villeret captures the crown in this catagory.  Mechanically it incorporates an "idiot-proof" calendar mechanism which allows for worry-free adjustments, an eight day power reserve, and a free sprung balance.  Aesthetically, it has a grande-feu black enamel dial and the innovative under-lug correctors so that the case profile remains fluid.  What else can a WIS wish for? 

The Chinese Calendar arrived in town for Watch Week.  As much as I tried to like this watch, it is just too hard to read...even for a Chinese WIS.  Technically though this watch is probably the most innovative model I saw along Madison Avenue.

It wears a lot thicker than 15mm.

Le Brassus Equation Marchante

Notice the elliptical EOT cam

The Villeret Inverse is Blancpain's approach to incorporate a modern aesthetic to its otherwise very traditional designs.  The "liquid ceramic" dial is really translucent...it mimics and probably achieves a superior and more consistent appearance than grand feu enamel but I am sure it is a simpler, more efficient, and cost effective technique.  I really liked this watch too

Of course I couldnot help but stop by the Montblanc Flagship Boutique before catching my flight back home.  The Villeret Pulsometer greeted me at the door.

This was something new.  It reminded me of something out of Star Wars...a display case which superimposed moving holographic images on a real watch.

The display can be seen in 360 degrees.

For Watch Week, Montblanc will be showing all the novelties from SIHH 2013.  The new Northern and Southern Hemispheres will be on display.  Although the Northern Hemisphere model is only available on a leather strap, the boutique manager will order and install a bracelet on special request.

When I saw this year's TwinFly release at SIHH 2013, my initial impression was "So what?  No big deal."  Afterall, it was a simple dial color change.  However once I had an opportunity to try it on the wrist, I completely understood why this version was created.  It is so much simpler to read.

The monochromatic look is appealing

One of the very few Twinfly Greytech that has made it to North America.  I think this is the only example available in the USA right now.

The Rieussec Rising Hours is being introduced to the USA during Watch Week.  This will be a hit no doubt about it in my mind.

The rose gold version is equally attractive.  I think both of these will be gone by the end of the event.

Like the Blancpain Villeret above, this is Montblanc's Moonphase/Triple Calendar.  Which one do you prefer? Would it affect your decision if you knew that you could buy eight Montblancs for the price of one Blancpain?

This was last year's Rieussec release.  One detail that escaped my attention was the new bracelet design which was introduced with this model.

Mirror polished, each link on the new bracelet is composed of five separate pieces.  It is much more flexible and comfortable on the wrist than the original three piece bracelet.

A special surprise arrived just in time.

Anyone guess?

Here's a hint.

This message has been edited by mkt33 on 2013-04-11 07:25:08 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-04-14 12:58:14

LUC Tribute and Breguet enamel dial Chronograph for me, please.

One café, and the bill, please.

I hope you did take several pictures of theis Luc Tribute, my friend!!!

Best,

Nicolas

However my vote would still go to the P10 monopusher

Best, Mike

You know how much I ove this P 10!

Best,

Nicolas.

I learned quite a bit from your post as I am not up-to-date on these brands' offerings. There are some very interesting and unusual pieces presented. The liquid ceramic dial/layout from Blancpain stands out as a brave effort.

Thanks again for extending this event across the Atlantic!

Nikolaj

process.

The bridges are chamfered so that the edges essentially form a well in which the liquid ceramic is poured.

I just wonder if it is the same "ceramic" compound used in coating other metals.

Best, Mike

Breguet clock is so beautiful.

Chopard and Montblanc deserve good credit as well.

Regards

Ling

The Reine De Naples is just so right for the classic lady. 






I tried finding a wristshot but could not.  But I remember seeing one on the lovely wrist of a Purist companion.  Perhaps he can share ?

Warmest regards,
Mike
 

I got the stainless steel version (without moon phase) for my wife. She wears it everyday.

Regards

Ling

Thank you so much.

NT

instead of having a 5K or 10K run, we should just do the annual PuristSPro WatchWeek Trot!

Best, Mike

NT

What a great report!  Thank you for sharing this.

I posted some more photos of Madison Avenue Watch Week over on the VC Forum, sadly not up to your standard of quality and commentary, but I hope enjoyable nonetheless. 

http://vacheron.watchprosite.com/show-forumpost/fi-14/pi-5818283/ti-856343/s-0/

 

Best,

respo

I didn't get enough time to visit all the boutiques so your efforts are greatly appreciated. 

Next year we should pair up!

Best, Mike

...and maybe you could teach me to use a camera properly.  ;-)

Interestingly, there was pretty much no overlap between our two walks, so between the two of us we covered a good amount of ground. 

Thank you,

respo

Thanks for taking us with your stroll, Mike!

Blancpain has made some interesting dial.... interesting....

Ken

Actually it is a very nice stroll with all the other world class boutiques in between the watch stores.

For my part, I miss my strolls through Ginza

I recently made a trip to Taiwan.  My cousins took my to Taipei 101 where we visited all the watch stores....there were at least 10 boutiques all distributed within 4 floors.  It was too much in such a confined space.  The Madison Ave. set up is preferable.

Cheers, Mike

Mike,

Thanks for covering Chopard and it is notable that they showed many of their best pieces at the same time. Madison Avenue must be the place to be.

The 'arena' style case back on the SuperFast range seems a good idea because it takes the viewer "into the movement". The finish on this industrial production in-house movement is very good and stays high despite the higher numbers produced.

That attitude is the reason for their PuristSPro Purity Prize.

 

PuristS Chopard fans: Just wait until Baselworld 2013 to have your "socks blown off"...

 

MTF

 

Thanks Mike for the stroll at Montblanc.

The big story for me this year is their focus on the middle high affordable range from 2013 onwards.

There is where most watch lovers are.  Of course, they have the high price finishing in the Villeret range that adds credibility to their serious investment into haute horlogerie.  But we should have already known that since they have more than a century of history in that other precision luxury instrument.....the Pen.

 

Any Rieussec seems to be a success; its like magic!

 

MTF

That's a great casual stroll.  The watches from Chopard definitely look very interesting, especially the Urushi snake.  

Great post Mike, looks like plenty of nice things to see at the boutiques on Madison.

Regards,
ED-209

All the temptations.

I admire you if you walked away clean after seeing so many beauties.

Thanks for the virtual stroll down Madison Ave.

Best

Bill

Great pics, thanks for starting the itch...

TM

No message body