Comments:
That dial reminds me of a new Hautlence model that I saw at the SBM in November
the RM seems to be made very differently, fine flat wires bent and welded together rather than a single block of material EDMed to shape, but the outcome is quite similar....
A
Richard Mille makes his debut at SIHH
Richard Mille’s first attendance at SIHH was more a case of being seen, that anything new that he had to show. To pre-empt myself a little, the best from Richard Mille this year will come later in the summer months, rather than now.
That said, what he did have in the booth was stunning and I picked on four pieces that perhaps previously I had doubts on. I have stated before that the Richard Mille diver watches were not for me. I think I was wrong on that one. I also brushed over the RM021 ‘Aerodyne’ thinking it was just another base plate. Yet the effect it gives the watch is very different and I have to say that I fell in love with the ‘Aerodyne’.
Hope you enjoy the show!
Thanks for reading
Andrew H
This message has been edited by 219 on 2010-01-23 07:38:13 This message has been edited by 219 on 2010-01-29 04:09:01
That said, what he did have in the booth was stunning and I picked on four pieces that perhaps previously I had doubts on. I have stated before that the Richard Mille diver watches were not for me. I think I was wrong on that one. I also brushed over the RM021 ‘Aerodyne’ thinking it was just another base plate. Yet the effect it gives the watch is very different and I have to say that I fell in love with the ‘Aerodyne’.
Hope you enjoy the show!
Thanks for reading
Andrew H
This message has been edited by 219 on 2010-01-23 07:38:13 This message has been edited by 219 on 2010-01-29 04:09:01
RM017
This year’s new watch at SIHH. I am sucker for a square watch, and certainly one that contains a tourbillon, so right from the outset, this watch ticks all the right boxes. It is smart, elegant, yet weighs next to nothing as the case was made from titanium. The one in the photos below is a prototype as Richard is not happy with the dial; admittedly, the numbers are a little difficult to see, and hence, that will be changed in due course. But the movement will remain as you see it now.
It is the same time only tourbillon movement and the same capabilities as other watches in the RM line. That said, there is different feel and vibe to the watch – more elegance, less sport. Loved it myself.
It is the same time only tourbillon movement and the same capabilities as other watches in the RM line. That said, there is different feel and vibe to the watch – more elegance, less sport. Loved it myself.
As I said, I'm a sucker for a square tourbillon watch. One of
my favourites too. Thanks
Andrew H
I asked Giulio Papi about the development of the RM017..
Giulio said he had to try 3 different approaches to get the original tourbillon movement to fit inside the thinner case and not lose any of the power reserve!
It was quite a challenge for him. I think it's an amazing feat. I would love to get my hands on one of these!
It was quite a challenge for him. I think it's an amazing feat. I would love to get my hands on one of these!
RM021 'Aerodyne'
When I first saw the rendered photos for this watch, I have to say that I was fairly dismissive. Here was another RM002, but with another material and so what! Actually, it is a new material, but the watch has a completely different look and feel in the flesh and on the wrist.
A little over ten years ago, when Richard Mille came out with the RM001, he ushered in a whole new look at materials and haute horologie. He stressed that he was interested in technique and that his love of the materials and technique in using them was the inspiration behind his watches. While initially it was pinned on the Formula 1 car, the reference was also made to planes and flight. It is with the RM021 that Richard makes good on his reference.
Rather than use the carbon fibre baseplate, this one uses ‘orthorhombic titanium aluminide’ that has a crystalline honeycombed structure and is used as a material in supersonic aircraft wings. It is designed to be light, resistant to extremely high temperatures, and tensile. The geometric pattern gives the material extreme rigidity and very low thermal expansion.
However, the inclusion as the baseplate of the movement is where the material ‘scores’. The honeycombed pattern plays with the light and creates a visual that is different from the carbon nanofibre. Richard structured the baseplate to have the profile of a wing – that it was thinner at the edge (where the baseplate is fixed to the case) than the centre, where the baseplate holds the movement. Above the tourbillon and the main spring are the innovative bridges that resemble turbines. What the photos below do not capture is how the light plays across the bridges to give the impression that the turbines move.
This really is jet powered test watch to the future – loved it!
(note how the honeycombed baseplate is see-through)
A little over ten years ago, when Richard Mille came out with the RM001, he ushered in a whole new look at materials and haute horologie. He stressed that he was interested in technique and that his love of the materials and technique in using them was the inspiration behind his watches. While initially it was pinned on the Formula 1 car, the reference was also made to planes and flight. It is with the RM021 that Richard makes good on his reference.
Rather than use the carbon fibre baseplate, this one uses ‘orthorhombic titanium aluminide’ that has a crystalline honeycombed structure and is used as a material in supersonic aircraft wings. It is designed to be light, resistant to extremely high temperatures, and tensile. The geometric pattern gives the material extreme rigidity and very low thermal expansion.
However, the inclusion as the baseplate of the movement is where the material ‘scores’. The honeycombed pattern plays with the light and creates a visual that is different from the carbon nanofibre. Richard structured the baseplate to have the profile of a wing – that it was thinner at the edge (where the baseplate is fixed to the case) than the centre, where the baseplate holds the movement. Above the tourbillon and the main spring are the innovative bridges that resemble turbines. What the photos below do not capture is how the light plays across the bridges to give the impression that the turbines move.
This really is jet powered test watch to the future – loved it!
(note how the honeycombed baseplate is see-through)
Wow this RM21 Aerodyne is smoking hot
I really love the curves of this watch, and your pictures give us a perfect idea of the curvature and lines of this RM.
The honeycomb baseplate is awesome!!
Cheers,
Anthony
fantastico
Thanks for the pics..............this watch is super sexy , more curves than a well endowed supermodel !
I like the crown too , I find the regular crown difficult to grip at times. Perhaps similar grooved style crowns will filter in to other models ?
re: RM021 'Aerodyne'
Wow, I really like the RM021 Aerodyne. The honeycomb structure gives it such nice depth and adds so much to the overall look of the piece. Great job with the photos AndrewH, Thanks!
-MW
-MW
I shall commit heresy
That dial reminds me of a new Hautlence model that I saw at the SBM in November
the RM seems to be made very differently, fine flat wires bent and welded together rather than a single block of material EDMed to shape, but the outcome is quite similar....
A
AaronM - hi - everyone is entitled to their opinion, however,
i think you are off base here. What matters to Richard is technique and materials in the construction of the watch, not the look as decoration. The material itself produces the crystalline structure and pattern of the base plate - its not a stuck on material as decoration. Richard Mille is where material science meets haute horologie, and there is a lightyear of difference.
But thanks for contributing
Andrew H
I wasn't speaking to intent or purpose
but appearence. I also think you are giving Mr. Mille too much credit in this instance. The openwork mesh does not appear to support the mainplate or any of the parts of the watch, they appear to be supported at the top and bottom (6 and 12 o'clock), so it is primarily decorative. Unless it goes under the large rings that surround the tourbillon and the mirror-image ring at 12 o'clock, something I can't tell one way or the other from the pictures. If that's the case, ignore the second sentence 
A This message has been edited by aaronm on 2010-01-25 14:37:50
A This message has been edited by aaronm on 2010-01-25 14:37:50
It is supportive - it is the material for the baseplate and it is structured
to the circular elements housing the main spring and the escapement.
But it is good to discuss the point - thanks
Andrew H
RM025
The winner at this year’s Geneve Grand Prix for the Sports Watch category, this was once again a watch that I was not so keen on. But again, the actual watch itself has a pull to the emotions and the senses that make it desirable; and that is a neat element for a watch to possess.
While the watch appears larger than a hockey puck, it nonetheless sits comfortably on the wrist (thanks to the design of the lugs). The rose gold lugs themselves add some weight and gravity to the watch that sets it apart from its younger sibling – the RM028 (see below). The bezel movement is smooth and functional; depressing the buttons at 12 and 6, the bezel rotates unidirectionally and you can fix it in place by lifting your fingers from the buttons. The action is smooth and response.
The same description can be applied to the functioning of the chronograph movement and the buttons are responsive and large. You can feel the start/stop and reset which would be a plus at depth.
The problems with bringing a divers watch to market for Richard Mille lay in keeping to his three-stage case design and keeping it water tight to the necessary depth (300 metres). It ruled out the tonneau shape, and in the end, required the round shape that is seen with the RM025 and RM028. The tourbillon chronograph that was used in the RM008 has been completely re-worked.
I have to say, yet again, that this was a watch that when you wear it, or see it for yourself, it is something to marvel at and enjoy.
While the watch appears larger than a hockey puck, it nonetheless sits comfortably on the wrist (thanks to the design of the lugs). The rose gold lugs themselves add some weight and gravity to the watch that sets it apart from its younger sibling – the RM028 (see below). The bezel movement is smooth and functional; depressing the buttons at 12 and 6, the bezel rotates unidirectionally and you can fix it in place by lifting your fingers from the buttons. The action is smooth and response.
The same description can be applied to the functioning of the chronograph movement and the buttons are responsive and large. You can feel the start/stop and reset which would be a plus at depth.
The problems with bringing a divers watch to market for Richard Mille lay in keeping to his three-stage case design and keeping it water tight to the necessary depth (300 metres). It ruled out the tonneau shape, and in the end, required the round shape that is seen with the RM025 and RM028. The tourbillon chronograph that was used in the RM008 has been completely re-worked.
I have to say, yet again, that this was a watch that when you wear it, or see it for yourself, it is something to marvel at and enjoy.
It is more impressive in the metal than the photos - weight
and gravitas! Thanks for reading
Andrew H
RM028
The slightly smaller and younger sibling to the RM025, the RM028 is lighter (due to its all titanium construction) and yet the watch has presence on the wrist in terms of weight because of the size of the case.
The movement is the re-worked Vaucher automatic that was seen in the RM005, 010, 011, and others. However, as the base movement itself is circular, it works better here in the RM028. More in tune with the case, and when viewed through the substantial case, looks something akin to a benign nuclear power cell!
The case design and function is otherwise the same as for the RM025. The bezel looks straightforward, but contains a great deal of work and thought. Ill admit, that with the watch on my wrist, I really did want to head straight for the Red Sea and dive – any one else around here love the film ‘The Big Blue’? Enclosed a few photos for your enjoyment.
The movement is the re-worked Vaucher automatic that was seen in the RM005, 010, 011, and others. However, as the base movement itself is circular, it works better here in the RM028. More in tune with the case, and when viewed through the substantial case, looks something akin to a benign nuclear power cell!
The case design and function is otherwise the same as for the RM025. The bezel looks straightforward, but contains a great deal of work and thought. Ill admit, that with the watch on my wrist, I really did want to head straight for the Red Sea and dive – any one else around here love the film ‘The Big Blue’? Enclosed a few photos for your enjoyment.