Jaeger-LeCoultre

1833 Collection, an opportunity to celebrate 175 years of JLC History.

The 7th of April 2008, JLC presents 4 watches, 4 Masterpieces in Rose Gold as a summary of its long History.

- The Master Ultra Thin, revisited for the occasion in a larger size ( 38 mm ).

- The Master 8 Days Perpetual Calendar Skeleton.

- The Master Minute Repeater.

- The Master Grand Tourbillon.

I first have to say that I find this idea excellent to sum this way the History of the Manufacture, as these 4 watches represent perfectly the skill, the competence, the artistic dimensions of the Brand, and its true values.

But I think, and that my only reserve, or deception, that there was a place for the Reverso, for one Reverso, here, between these 4 Time Keepers, as, for example a Tourbillon Skeleton in the same material, in Rose Gold, instead of the Master Grand Tourbillon.

I love a lot the diversity of these 4 Master....
From the extrem simplicity, purity of the M.U.T, to the complex but artistic and intrigant Master 8 Days Perpetual Calendar, from the magical aspect of the MMR which is a pure piece of poesy, to the majesty of a Tourbillon, JLC really covered all the complications, all the faces of its own world.

So, now, the watches, individually taken...

1st, the Master Grand Tourbillon:

The " Normal" watch Limited to 300 pieces, in platinum:



Now, the 1833 Master Grand Tourbillon:



This is a LE of 575 pieces, which receives a dedicated brown chocolate dial and a radial guilloché, with brown gold numbers in applique, rose gold hands, with the writing " 1833 ", just under the Jaeger Lecoultre Signature.

Although I find this combo magnificient, we're too close from the Master Grand tourbillon in platinum, and that's a bit why I'd prefer a more radical solution with Reverso Rose Gold Skeleton Tourbi, in a GT case, for instance.

But I have to say that this Chocolate dial Guilloché is something special and magnificient which compliments perfectly the Rose gold case, so I have finally some mixed feelings about it.

With a dimension of 43 mm, the watch is a bit heavy, due to the Rose Gold Construction, but it's very pleasant to wear, too.

I didn't take pics at the SIHH, as I planned to do it the last day, but there were too many people who wanted to touch it...So, finally, no pics.

2d: The master minute Repeater:

That is a piece I perfectly know, as I own the titanium version, so I was very curious to see in the flesh what this piece would bring, compared to mine.

And I had the answer!

Here's a pic of mine:



Here's the pic of the " 1833 " Edition:



I thought a lot when I saw this new version of the MMR, and I compared to mine.

I think that the Titanium gives to the watch a more evident concept watch look, due to the combo of the polished titanium and this spectacular open dial.

Use the same open dial, and put it in a Rose Gold case, and your watch will look totally different.

Now, the watch gains in elegance what it looses in concept watch look, but the concept remains spectacular, and surprising. I love a lot!

Here are some pics I reworked on photoshop to isolate a bit the particularities of this watch.

The " 1833 " Signature...



Ruthenium finished bridges, which contrast strongly with the rose gold hands and the case...



As for the other watches of this collection, the MMR receives a chocolate brown alligator strap fitted with a double folding clasp in Pink Gold which is more coherent than the SS buckle on my Titanium, or than the WG one on the Platinum!

At the end, I'm very happy to see this piece in this collection! Great find, JLC!

NB: This watch is limited to 175 pieces, instead of the 200 pieces in platinum and titanium.

3rd: The Master 8 Days Perpetual, skeleton:

Well, you all still have in mind the Platinum version of this watch, I took in pics some months ago.











We discussed a lot about the legibility of this PC, but I still consider it as a TRUE masterpiece, with a splendid work of skeletization on the movement, and the dial.

In platinum, this watch is awesome, discret, and perfectly finished.

In Rose Gold, for this " 1833 collection ", the result is amazing.
This is really an amazing watch, a pure beauty, and here more than with the MMR, the contrast between the Rose Gold and the ruthenium finish of the movement, is less surprising, as I never considered this watch as a concept watch, but as a classic one.

Here's the pic of the press file:



All is perfectly conceived and thought, on this PC...The Ruthenium skeleton movement, the little touches of Rose Gold of the hands, indexes and numbers, the very small touches of white to make the read easier on the PC informations, the warmth of the rose gold case...
This is a true hit!

For this watch, I took the opportunity to take some pics...

I wanted to highlight the work on the movement, first.

Front side:



Through the sapphire glass:



The Back side:



Through the sapphire glass,





And the mainplate, alone...



This is indeed a sculptural work.
I love a lot the idea of the planisphere movement decoration, and the play on the light that this design gives to the watch.

As for the MMR, the movement is ruthenium finished.

It's interesting to know that each movement of this perpetual calendar skeleton requires 2 months of work!

Now, let's have a look on the whole watch, to appreciate the contrast between the Rose Gold Case, and the Skeleton movement...

On the dial side, you will notice the discrete mention " 1833 " engraved on the glass, just under the Jaeger Lecoultre Signature, and you will appreciate the contrast above mentionned...
These little touches of rose are welcome, and make the perpetual calendar maybe more legible than in the platinum version.



The case back offers the same esthetical contrast, indeed.





The platinum version of the last year amazed me a lot, this rose gold pc is not less stunning, just a matter of taste, and in both cases, a superb demonstration of the difficulty to realize a skeleton PC without sacrifices on the legibility of all the indications.
IMHO, JLC did it perfectly, and this watch is a blast!

All this in a 41, 5mm case, and in a LE of 175 pieces.
A last advice, if you're tempted by this watch...Try it on your wrist, it's something to test...



4th, The Master Ultra Thin.

Even if it's not a complicated watch, horologically speaking, this watch is complex to realize.

The Cal 849 which is exactly the same than the one which equipped the previous model, is only 1, 85mm thick, one of the thicker in the whole watch production.

Compared to the previous version JLC launched this year a new Master Ultra Thin, in 38 mm for the manual movement, and in 40mm for the automatic version.

To judge the new " 1833 " MUT, let's first have a look on the previous model, here in platinum:



Look at this dial and please note that between the numbers and Five minutes indexes, you have no minute indexes stilized with small points.

Then the movement, viewed from the case back...



Here with a different finish, white gold + grey dial...



Now, the new MUT Family:

In the automatic version: 40mm case, 8,6mm only thick, and Caliber 3, 98 mm thick...



Automatic, with the small second at " 6 ".

Now the manual wind version, the true descendant of the MUT we all know:



The Case is 38mm diameter, the thickness is 6,31mm.

Now, the MUT " 1833 Collection "...

This is a MUT 38mm, with the caliber described above, in a specific presentation for the occasion, so a rose gold case, with a plain chocolate brown mat dial, and a crocodile strap in the same color with a pin or a folding buckle in rose gold, edited in a LE of 575 pieces.

Here's the result, a pure beauty, a top class watch, my favourite in all the MUTs presented this year...



I appreciate a lot the play between the applied numbers, the small minutes indexes, and this mat dial.

Another spectacular thing is indeed is thinness...
On this pic, you can see it better.



Really Ultra Thin, my friends!

I took a lot of pics of it, but I won't post them as they are catastrophically bad, the problem being that you can't catch the beauty of the brown dial with a poor or a too agressive light, and that this watch, as the MMR in Rose Gold were the big attractions of the SIHH...

Well, guys, the truth is that I always had in front of me these 2 charming JLC women, and that I lost a bit my natural and legendary concentration...It doesn't help to take good pics, except of them! LOLOL





Hello, Caroline ( on the left ) and Benedicte ( on the right ), it was a pleasure to meet you in real!

Back to the MUT " 1833 ", I wore it for a while, and I can say that this is one of th best watch to wear.....
all in contrast.

You think small with 38mm, but on the wrist, due to the very open dial, it looks like a 40 mm one.

The thinness is something amazing, even more amazing than with the 34mm, due to the 4mm bigger case....Perfect on the wrist, as a PP Calatrava can be, but even thinner than a PP.

So, I was very pleased to see such a Manufacture presenting this year a nice summary of its skill in Horology...
They made in the past some beautiful Grandes Complications, Perpetual Calendars Minute Repeaters, Tourbillons, and Ultra Thin Pocket Watches.
It was necessary , through this 1933 Collection, to have in mind this glorious Past, with these 4 nice pieces.

I think it's now time to choose which of these one will get a place into our Basket...LOL

A bonus, all the important JLD dates, I found in a press file...I believe this is the good occasion to post them:

1559 Pierre LeCoultre arrives in the Vallée de Joux
1612 Pierre II LeCoultre founds the village of Le Sentier
1730 The LeCoultre forge is established
1833 Founding of the Manufacture
1844 Invention of the Millionometer
1847 Invention of the pivoting winding mechanism
1851 Gold medal at the World Fair in London
1858 Elie LeCoultre helps his father Antoine
1866 A new building: LeCoultre becomes the first Manufacture in the Vallée de Joux
1870 First complicated calibres
1874 A new building
1880 Jaeger is founded in Paris
1888 A new building
1890 The Manufacture produces 156 calibres
1890 The first Grande Complication models
1900 Jacques-David LeCoultre is in charge of production
1903 Jacques-David LeCoultre meets Edmond Jaeger
1907 Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 145, the world’s thinnest movement
1912 Extension of the Manufacture
1915 Aviation and automobiles
1925 Invention of the Duoplan watch
1927 A new building
1928 Invention of the Atmos clock
1929 Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101, the world’s thinnest movement
1930 Chronoflight
1931 8-day twin-barrel wristwatch
1931 Birth of the Reverso watch
1932 “Baguette” table clock
1933 A new building
1937 Official birth of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand
1938 Compass miniature camera
1946 Jaeger-LeCoultre tourbillon Calibre 170
1946 First automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre watch
1950 Birth of the Memovox
1953 Futurematic
1953 Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 803, 1.64 mm thick
1956 First automatic wristwatch with an alarm
1958 Geophysic Chronometer
1959 Memovox Deep Sea. First diver’s watch equipped with an alarm
1965 Memovox Polaris
1967 Participation in the Beta 21 movement
1972 A new building
1976 Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic, thin, high-frequency Calibre 900
1982 Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 601, the world’s thinnest quartz movement
1983 Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 889
1987 Jaeger-LeCoultre mechaquartz Calibre 630
1989 Grand Réveil
1990 Géographique
1991 Reverso 60ème
1992 Master Control 1000 Hours
1994 Reverso Duo
1997 Reverso Duetto
1997 A new building
1999 Atmos du Millénaire
2000 Jaeger-LeCoultre joins the Richemont Group
2002 Master Compressor Memovox
2003 Reverso Platinum Number Two
2003 Atmos Mystérieuse
2004 Gyrotourbillon I
2005 Master Minute Repeater Antoine LeCoultre
2006 Reverso grande complication à triptyque
2007 Duomètre
2007 Master Compressor Extreme Lab
2007 Opening of the Heritage Gallery
2008 4 pink gold limited series marking the 175th anniversary of the Manufacture
2008 Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2
2008 First stone of a new 9,000 square-metre building

Hope you liked this topic, and looking forward your comments...
Best to All!
Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2008-04-15 07:31:03 This message has been edited by amanico on 2008-04-20 11:40:25

I think the rose gold perpetual squelette is my all-time favorite JLC piece. The contrast between the warm rose gold and the rhodium and the depth of the movement are stunning.

Any idea on the price?

John

Yep, the perpeutal calendar skeleton is a pice that haunts my mind, but can't tell which one, between the platinum and the rose gold is the nicer.
As for the price of the rose gold, it's 69 000 Euros, AFAIK.
The platinum is 80 000.
I think it's one of the nicest pc I ever saw, to say all.
Best.
Nicolas

Great report, Nicolas!  I think a lot of us were awaiting the new MUT with great anticipation, and what a surprise that JLC launched TWO new versions AND a special anniversary edition in that lovely chocolate brown and rose gold combo, which I think is also my favorite rendition. 

I had been holding off on selecting a thin dress watch because what I realized I wanted was an MUT, but in a somewhat larger size -- that would be perfection, I thought.  But you know what they say, be careful what you wish for. 

First of all, the MGUT is, IMHO, an entirely different piece, gorgeous to be sure, but not quite comparable to the MUT.  I am not even sure, given its height, that it qualifies as "ultra thin," although perhaps it does if ultra thin is defined relative to case diameter. Maybe some of the experts here can enlighten me. In any case it is a nice addition to the JLC line up and a good start to their renewed commitment to producing slimmer watches.

Second, the new MUT has the same 849 movement as the previous models of the MUT, but placed in a larger case.  This seems a little like cheating; but I am more seriously concerned that this decision undermines the integrity of the MUT.  The 849 movement, if not the original MUT watch itself, have achieved somewhat legendary status as "best in class", I think, and many consider the 34mm MUT and its movement both masterpieces. From what I can see, it is pretty rare that a watch is produced in any category that is recongnized by so many to be the definitive current production example in its class, and the 34mm MUT did that for ultra thins.  But perhaps I am greatly overestimating its status.

So, does the placement of a pretty small movement (even relative to the 34 mm case, as is my understanding) into an even larger 38mm case produce something less than a masterpiece?  Perhaps the 849 works perfectly in a 34 mm case, and maybe the combination with a 38mm case loses something in the translation. What exactly is happening in all that extra space inside the larger case?  Are there technical issues of concern when a small movement is placed inside a large case?  I am certain the 38mm MUT is beautiful, but I am just not sure that it is up for consdieration as best in class as the original was.  Also, at 6.31 mm thick, again, I am not sure how this places the MUT in the ultra thin category as a whole -- while still very thin, it is no longer among the very thinnest compared to the original MUT or other really fine examples put out by other manufacturers; but in terms of height relative to diameter, it may in fact be quite impressive.I don't know the answers. Again, some enlightened opinions would be appreciated. 

What do others think about how the new MUT stacks up against the original, not so much in terms of beauty or elegance, which I think are more subjective, but in terms of their each being truly extraordinary or even seminal examples of the ultra thin watch?  I think that one of the appeals of the original MUT is in its being arguably the best interpretation of the ultra thin horological challenge in recent or current production. I think another appeal is that somehow the MUT became more than the sum of its parts, creating a very rare and sublime combination of artistry and technical achievement. Maybe it was too much to hope for an equal level of achievement from JLC with a new MUT, and perhaps it would have required beginning with a new movement. But as for now, I will need to reconsider my plans for a thin dress watch. 

respo

I have to say that when I knew that JLC will use the same caliber ( 849) in the new 38mm MUT, I was a bit decieved.
Not because this movement doesn't speak to me, but only because I was hoping that JLC will also launch a new caliber, maybe a bit bigger, to fit the bigger case back better.
We psoke a lot with Jerome, and the funny thing is that, although we were both deceived when we knew that point, 2 days after, we thought that it was not that much important.
The spirit of the new 38mm MUT is still here, and totally respected, re interpreted by JLC, and that 's the most important.
As for the case now...The old MUT was 34mm for a 4,20mm thick.
The new is 38mm for 6,31 thick.
So it's 4mm bigger for only 2,11mm thicker...
The important thing, IMHI is that the proportions of the new MUT are great!
Even better when you take the rapport between the diameter and the thickness, than the previous model...
As to conclude, yes, I think that the 38mm is always a true MUT.
I don't know if it's the thinner, but certainly one of the thinner.
A last point: I'm happy that JLC made it a bit thicker.
Why?
Just becasue imagine that the new MUT is the same thickness, with a larger case?
Would it be nicer? No, I doubt of it.
As for the Grande MUT, I absolutely love it, it's a very elegant watch, but as for the purist I am, I prefer the 38mm MUT...
And in its " 1833 " presentation, it's just superb!
Best, my friend.
Nicolas

I do not know enough about watch proportions to discuss it intelligently, but, given the dimensions you cited, JLC increased the thickness of the watch by over 50% while increasing the diameter by just over 10%. And that may be just right, I don't know.  I suspect you are 100% correct in that the new proportions work beautifully, and that maintining the 4.2mm thickness for a 38mm diameter would not have worked.  And perhaps, there are few ultra thins out there that are as large as 38mm, so maybe this new version is extraordinary in that way.  Again, I just don't know.  I do know that I almost always agree with your taste in specific watches and brands, so I am inclined to agree with you here, too.

I look forward to pics of the caseback to see how small the window into the movement is, and I look forward to seeing both the new MUT and the Grande in the metal some day.

respo

Actually, I was quite surprised when reading that the new 38mm "ultrathin" is 6.31mm thick.
That a very significant increase in thickness, from the previous 4.20mm

I would have imagined that JLC would have increased slightly the thickness of the watch, in proportions to the increase of diametre. That would have given a thickness of 4.69mm.
But 6.31 that is quite a lot of additional thickness, and I wonder why they did need to increase thickness so much.

The classic Ultrathin had a thickness ratio of 12%  (Thickness / Diameter). That was the proportions which somehow defined the standard for ultrathin.
The other classic JLC ultrathin, the pocket version, had a similar ratio (I have a very old ultrathin ("couteau") JLC pocketwatch which, at 45.0mm for 5.0mm thickness is at 11%, so comparable, but even more remarkable as the movement is very large at 38mm, not 21mm!) 

Now, the new watch has a thickness ratio of 16.6%, so it is proportionally 38% thicker than the classic Ultrathin. This is such a difference that I don't consider it ultrathin anymore.

The new watch is definitively good looking, relatively thin watch, there is no doubt about it, and its proportions might work very well altogether, but IMHO, it is not an ultrathin anymore.
It is now more a "hand wound master classic" than an ultrathin .

 

(now, that is what I call ultrathin.....)

 

nt

I don't totally agree about what you said on the new MUT which wouldn't be a Ultra Thin watch.
I think that the new MUT 40 mm cannot be compared to a new MUT, but as a thin Master Automatic.
But the 38mm handwound is still for me a MUT.
I always bad in Mathematics, so the rules of the proportions, and the calculs are not my cup of tea..LOLOL
BUT, visually speaking, you don't notice the additional 2 mm thickness.
As the proportions of this MUT are pefcet and its thinness is simply something amazing.
Another thing, a bit ot ouf topic, is that JLC reworked the cases of the Master Line...
I'm waiting for some pics to share with you all this new line, with thinner lugs and cases...To see in the flesh.
Best.
Nicolas

I like the other three but not the skeletonised master 8 days perpetual.  IMHO, the skeletonised work is so shoddy and it looks like a pile of scrap metal being arranged to look like a watch.  This is certainly not the standard of JLC.  I believe they can do a much better job.

I need a few days to get over this nightmare.

Anyway, thanks Nicolas for the report.

 

Regards

Ling

 

I persist on saying that the work on this watch is as fine as it is impressive...
as I had the chance to see both of them in live.
But to take in pic this watch is a pure nightmare.
Best.
Nicolas This message has been edited by amanico on 2008-04-16 06:48:31

But, don't you think this skeletonised work makes it very difficult to read the calendar and time?

Unless one is told that practicality is not important here.

 

Regards

Ling

You asked if it was very difficult to read this pc due to the skeleton.
I can honestly tell you that you have to be used to, and it doesn't take too much time, once you get how to read the hour...
You have a white marker in each indication of the pc, which hilight the information.
After, it' really a matter of taste.
For example, I appreciate the skleleton work on the Reverso platinum Nr1, but it's not for me.
The thing you have to see in the flesh is the work on this skeleton, which has a deep impact on the play of the light, the contrasts, etc...
But this is very subjective, as each time we speak about taste..
See one, and we'll speak once.It will be interesting to know your opininon!
Best.
Nicolas

The JLC strikes me as existing more on the side of the Richard Mille aesthetic spectrum than the Vacheron side. It is surely not skeletonized in a traditional manner like a Vacheron or Patek--it has a very modern flair and IMO exhibits the movement wonderfully. While I love the romance and craft associated with traditional skeletonizing, generally speaking, I can't bring myself to buy/wear a traditionally skeletonized piece because I perceive it as perhaps too feminine, too delicate. However, the JLC squelette does not appear feminine or delicate whatsoever and I could fully see myself buying and wearing one regularly (except that it costs about as much as a Porsche Carerra S...but that's another issue).  Just my opinion...

John

...if I may.

First, the report is outstanding, and what we have now come to expect from each of our 'Duetto' moderators. Thank you - merci millefois - Nicolas.

Second, the watches are a credit to JLC. We will perhaps agree to disagree amongst ourselves on what is thin and what is ultra-thin; whether the classic MUT needs indices or not; whether a new calibre was mandatory (would we have expected this of anyone but JLC?); even whether the finish of the QP is or is not up to standard. What cannot be denied, however, is that JLC has 'delivered' right across the spectrum this year: a magnificent Reverso Gyrotourbillon (sigh...); a new AmVox (a sports tourbillon no less!); not one, but  two Polaris re-editions (and so faithful to the original!); not two but  three new Atmos clocks (each one a bold statement, either horologically or artistically); a new worldtimer, jewellery pieces - the list goes on. Now here, some favourites (old and new) in a classic combination to mark a key point in the history of the manufacture. You asked - JLC listened. Where else have you seen such energy this year? Bravo M. Lambert, Mlle. Metrailler et al.

Finally, just as we have been spoiled with a wealth of treasures from JLC,  so also we have been given service sans pareil  by Nicolas and Jerome who have elbowed their way into receptions, shows, boutiques and workshops, who have studiously avoided the free champagne and canapes, who have pointed cameras in improbable situations and typed into the small hours, fingers bleeding, to bring to us immediately not just pictures, not just news, but passionate, knowledgeable, balanced (hmmm....) and deep reviews of all the things that might interest JLC aficionado and newcomer alike. Without doubt the best coverage of any brand, anywhere. Gentlemen: thank you !

 

Cheers,

pplater.

Thanks to Jerome and Nico. Great work and unique insights. Thank you.

nt

As I said to pplater, I will prepare for the next days a summary of all the new JLC watches...
Thanks a lot, much appreciated.
A pleasure to share with guys like you!
Nicolas

nt

Compliments from you, and to know that you had enjoyed our posts, here and there.
Well, the choice is quite simple...Or you copy and paste the press files, but who needs that?
Or you take more time to give, share, and put in ( bad ) english words what we thought , felt, and saw during the launch of these new watches.
I prefer, and Jerome too, the 2d option.
This 2d option is more conform to our device " Passion, Opinion, and Information".
To say all, Kevin, we had some " Canapés" and Champagne, even an old Vintage Rhum which killed us for a while..LOL
Bu the most important is that all you said is much , deeply appreciated...
Thanks, Gentleman.
PS: I'll prepare a post which will sum all the new watches presented by JLC this year...
It takes just time and new fingers..LOLOL
Best, and thanks, my friend.
Nicolas

Hi Kevin,

I'm touched by your kind words. Thank you for your support.

It was again this year a hard pleasure, but a real pleasure (and it's far from being over yet).

I'm glad you and hopefully many others here appreciate our work.

We're going to share a lot more, all together!

Dje

ps: OK I appreciated the champagne too! 

It is indeed a fantastic collection

 

Asi

The funny thing is that I don't like colored gold, but with these one and some very few others, it not a problem for me...
I was amazed by this observation...
A MUT 1833 would have a great place in my collection...
Best.
Nicolas

No message body

The Cal 896 in the MUT Auto is not a true new movement.It is a reliable movement, thicker than the 38mm MUT ( 3,98mm ), and to say all, I prefer the cal of the 38mm.
Best.
Nicolas

I like the Master Grande tourbillon, especially with the black dial. The 1833 edition ultra-slim looks great too.

I don't like the skeleton perpetual though. In fact, none of the JLC skeleton watches so far really appeal to me, I find the skeletonised JLC watches slightly industrial looking, and lacking the fineness and delicacy of Vacheron or the Daniel Roth Lumiere. That is more a question of style than of quality, even though I dislike the style of the skeleton watch, the finishing is as good as all the other high-end JLC watches.

- SJX