this excited about a watch in a very long time...the Boutique edition looks fantastic, i am very happy that JLC decided to silver up the numbers on the bezel...made the watch perfect...and elegant for a sport watch and the 68 is a classic in every sense of the word...
I cant wait for the 65 to land... and even possibly the 68...LOL ....
Your pictures are true inspirations....
Cheers
Mark
I'm really hapy for you that you finaly got your babies. Wear them in happy days. They both look gorgeous. We should celebrate them, shouldn't we?
Cheers my friend!!!
Sincerely
Ahmet
Straps...
What do you think the strap options will be from JLC on these...
Mark
Really want to see one 1965 edition in flesh. Cannot wait longer .....
1965 in flesh one day ....
I find that faked patina a little disturbing. It looks just that, fake and mismatched with lume on the hands.
A couple of questions concerning the re-editions:
1) Do they use plexi crystals?
2) How faithfully does the case construction match the original EPSA case?
Still, lovely watches, new or old.
Hi Nicolas,
Thanks for the reply.
The problem is that the difference in lume is unlikely in a brand new (original) Polaris. For sure, hands and dials do have a tendency to fade or discolour in different manners, but not as presented on a new watch. Hence my comment re: patina. (It gets worse on some vintage/classic cars, where the patina is completely destroyed during restoration, only to be painstakingly 'reproduced' after completion. That's why I prefer the (overused) phrase Wabi Sabi...it has to be real)
In the course of your enquiries, is it possible to see if you can unearth any further information on the case construction? The external features of the case are, of course, faithful to the original.
But my real interest lies in how faithfully the watch replicates the EPSA cases, particularly the internal bezel Super Compressors which have an interesting (and frustrating, if you are trying to reassemble) construction whereby the bezel float is controlled by the lower flange of the crystal.
Also of interest is the layout of the pinion gear that drives the rack of the internal bezel.
And lastly, are you (or any of the other purists) aware of whether the bayonet style caseback is used on any of these EPSA style reissues - from JLC, Longines, etc?
Hi Nicolas,
On the old EPSA cases, instead of a screw-in caseback, the caseback was an approx. 1/4 turn to lock down on the o-ring. Three slots on the caseback engage with 3 tabs on the case itself.
Concering the pinion: One of the drawbacks of the old cases was that the depth of the crystal as loaded into the case determines how much float the internal bezel has. The problem as I understand it, with this arrangement is that too much depth can put radial load on the shaft of the upper (2 o'clock) crown. I think this is why so many compressors have an incorrect 2 o'clock crown - the shaft has broken and the crown has been lost (pure speculation). It would be interested to see what IWC have done here.
These old cases are fascinating (after all, look who used them...) but information is scarce. Crystals are as difficult to find as orginal hash-marked crowns, so I dare not delve too far into my watches to understand futher.
All the above wouid be instantly answered if a cross-section of the watch is available. Have you seen any?
(by the way, I agree with the Green Lume on the IWC, it's just that artificial patina also detracts from a watch, particularly a watch like a Polaris that is near, in my eyes, to perfect: The right amount of complication (actually useful: alarm and elapsed time), the water-resistance, the legibility, the history...etc)
Thanks again,
BDLJ
No rush.
Any info on the EPSA cases is interesting, underwater alarm or not.
The pin in the case back for the alarm...I forgot about that.
I have been playing with a Vulcain Cricket recently, so the requirement for non-twisting caseback should have occured to me.
I guess, then, that the bayonet question can be shifted to the Longines and the IWC... Anyone know?
Suitbert,
In your restorations of these vintage cases, can you comment at all about the upper crown "weakness" or is it in my head?
Also what is the calibre # for the auto alarm? I am interested in the central pin placement through the rotor.