Chopard

"But the most serious one is the Fleurier seal, it is the most logical quality stamp, it tests the watch and not just the movement alone."
Quoted by Philippe Dufour in the August 25, 2006 The Business Times (Singapore).







The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier (QF)  is inspired by a 1950s Chopard model.  As it is manufactured in Fleurier, it pays homage to the brand's founding father, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. 
Slightly slimmer, the new model has retained the exact proportions of its predecessor. The characteristic 1950s design is distinguished by its elegant sobriety (not surprising as immediately after WWII, it was a building period for most countries).

Though this piece looks retro and may not excite some, please hold the thoughts for a moment and read through this post

I will show you this piece of 1.5 year-young L.U.C QF.




The L.U.C Qualite Fleurier (QF) Ref : 161896-5001 is a RG case of diameter 39.50mm. Limited to 250 pieces, created to commemorate the launch of the "Fleurier Quality Certification".

The dial is of 18K gold.  The conical indices ( made of gold and looks like Turkish numeral) are arranged around a black chapter-ring, with a small seconds-hand located at 6 o'clock. 
The 3 gold hands are of "feuille" style.

There is a small detail about the small-second subdial.  It was circularly machine-turned, thus you could see some rippling-effect on the sub-dial.
The sapphire crystal is glare-proofed with double Anti-reflective (AR) coating.




With the double AR coating, legibility is no issue at any angle and even with a direct light source hitting directly.




The QF follows the traditional case-making. The case is not a single piece directly formed out.  It consists of the main body and 4 lbeautifully  finished lugs which are carefully hand-soldered to ensure of same height.
The diameter 6mm L.U.C signed crown is also of solid gold.

The Hour & Minute hands and hour-indices are coated with Super-Luminova to ensure time is readable even in the dark. The luminescent is very even and last for a while if fully charged.

See how the lugs are curved downward to embrace the wrist.
The QF is also wear pretty flat.  Total thickness is at 8.70mm...very sleek and can easily slipped under the cuff.  You could observe the solid-caseback is pretty thin from the above picture.

Markings on Case & Buckle

All gold-parts must be marked clearly as per legislation in every country.
The stamped marks are  always of close proximity.  The local assay office will carry out analysis to determine the amount of a precious metal in an alloy and to hallmark the piece if it is up to standard.

This is the manufacturer's or maker's mark which is registered with the authorities. 
L.U.C manufactures its own casing and related parts from raw to finish.

On another lug, it was stamped with the standard mark indicating the parts per thousand. 
For this is case, it is 750 gold which is 3/4 gold or 750 parts per 1000, which is also known as 18K (18parts of 24).

Finally the hallmark ( in the form of the head of the St. Bernard dog  has been used in Switzerland since 1995) which is stamped by the assay office. 
This is a compulsory mark for all watch cases which contain precious metal!




The Interesting Hand Engraved Caseback



The solid caseback is individually hand-engraved by master engravers.
Every piece is a unique piece and will display some shots of the engraving below.

One more important mark to note on the caseback is, of course the Qualite Fleurier mark.
This QF insignia is stamped on the outside of the watch to inform the watch is FQFcertified.

While deciding to purchase this piece, thought that a solid caseback is minus, as could not see the beautifully finished L.U.C caliber.
After speaking to a veteran PuristS - Dr.Bernard Cheong, indeed it is little or no sacrifice of not having a see-through caseback for a piece of craftwork.

Must say, no regret at all... after seeing the work under a loupe..... here are some pictures of the engraving.



(Shots were taken using a P&S camera and a 10x loupe... so the focus may not be sharp )

 How many bees?

A zoom-in view... every stroke of hand-engraving.
Please bear in mind, this picture is under magnification.  See the masterful cut of those extremely small parallel lines...simply marvellous.

This picture displayed hand-engraving versus tool-stamped.  The figure'250' should be stamped.

The 18K gold ardillon buckle...observe that L.U.C did not go the easy way of stamping the brand-logo instead it could be a piece which need more processing time (even by CNC milling) to give the emboss-logo.

All the marks on the back of the gold-buckle.




The superbly finished Caliber 9.96 with the solid case-back removed...a solid beautiful engine under the bonnet
The Caliber 9.96 is a 29 jewels automatic with a solid 22K micro-rotor beating at 28,000 vph.  The movement diameter is 27.40mm.  The thickness is 3.30mm and it houses double-stacked barrels to give 65-hour power reserve.





A short note for a watch to qualify for the extremely strict  Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)


Firstly the movement must be COSC-certified.  After which the cased-up watch must passed the "Chronofiable" ageing-test (which subject the watch to 21 days of shocks,cold, heat and humidity).  
The movement is also subjected to aesthetic finishing inspection...which should be equal to Geneva Seal standard.
Lastly, the case-up watch must pass the "Fleuritest-machine" which simulates the watch being worn over 24-hour cycle comprising of alternating active and calm phases. At the end of the Fleuritest, the rate of watch must maintain 0 to +5 seconds per day!
This is about Precision (operating in a tight-band) in a non-static position.
To summarise, in order to pass the FQF, both form and function must excel!


A quote by Philippe Dufour (in the August 25, 2006 The Business Times (Singapore) by Timmy Tan):

"But the most serious one is the Fleurier seal, it is the most logical quality stamp, it tests the watch and not just the movement alone."


For more information about FQFand videos, please visit (www.fleurier-quality.com).



A few pictures of the later QF to commemorate L.U.C's 10th Anniversary

Ref : 161896-1002, dark-grey dial in WG case with see-through caseback  and limited to 250 pieces too.

A slight difference, the minute-ring and central dial was circularly engine-turned.

2 pics of the open-caseback. The QF insignia is marked on the caseback with the anniversary year.

Wrist-shots






Conclusions

The L.U.C QF is a honest watch from the angle of form, functions and price.
This piece of haute horologerie ensures the owner, he has a reliable top-of-the-range watch with exceptional aesthetic finish which will perform precisely even in rugged condition.
Also pretty versatile, could be for casual and definitely for formal wear.  Strangely this piece, I like it more as time goes by.
Like all true classics, it will stand the test of time which could possibly be enjoyed by your next few generations.


Kong


This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2008-06-01 14:32:01 This message has been edited by Kong on 2008-06-05 14:11:16

You said all and perfectly...
This is a pity you don't have the choice between a solid case back and a see through one, as to be able to admire such a caliber!
Thanks for taking the time to do this post, and to share with us!
Best.
Nicolas

the potential of L.U.C under this Marathon runner-leader.
Kong

. . . I wasn't aware until just now that the recent Chronometers are direct descendants of a previous model. This formula of an uncluttered dial and sporting a small seconds hand in a modestly sized case is my personal favorite, and if I were to build a second thematic collection, it would be centered on such designs; a Patek 9"' - 90 caliber vintage model or 5196, a Lange Saxonia or 1815, Glashütte 1845 Karree or 1878 Moritz Großmann, in addition to the Chopard chronometer . . . these are the types of watches that never go out of style, and can fairly be labeled as timeless designs . . . cordially, Art

I like them!  For the PP it will be the 5196P
The 1878 Moritz Großmann is looker.
Kong

I must say Chopard is a first rate manufacture, and this piece is no doubt a great example of such craftsmanship.

Godspeed,

Scott D

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Thanks Kong

Impressive report on an outstanding watch. This watch never fails to amaze me. Maybe the reason is that it has never fail any test !!...hehehe ;-)

cheers

joe

 

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Pity that they are yet to make such item

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and 9 years for Panerai to come out with the 232., I am now the proud owner of both. I definitely long for the 1.96 calibre to join my PP cal 240 and Langematik movements to achieve the perfect trio of micro-rotors.

Thanks Kong for this report and photos. I find the hallmark with the head of the St. Bernard dog is the most interesting to me.  Cheers.

Yes, the St.Bernard dog mark is a very important assay stamp.
Make sure it is on.

Kong

Great watch. Thanks.

the Cal1.96 will be a killer

Kong

Kong,

Thank you Kong for the wonderful photos and write up of a wonderful Horological standard.

MSB

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Kong,

Here are some of my impressions of this fine timepiece. I am glad that Dufour recognizes the value of the QFcertification.

I  wear the watch on weekends so my comments are based on casual usage. After several months with this piece I must say that I enjoy the Fleurier more than the 1.96.

I do not think the 36mm size is suitable anymore, even in a 'classic'  watch; Note that even Patek  (classic watchmaker supreme) no longer makes very small watches for men. I wore a 40mm watch for many years and even though I have a small wrist I find that size the minimum acceptable (imho). The Fleurier at 39.5mm feels so much more substantial than my 36mm 1.96 . I wear my Luc Sport daily and the dial is almost the same size as the 1.96, the 40mm case feels so much better. I think that Chopard would no longer make the 1.96 today at 36mm, witness the new Extra plate.

I like the luminous dial and i like the wrist presence of the case of the Fleurier; Pretty hard to describe, but evident when one wears the watch. The way the watch falls on the wrist is very nice, you can almost feel the way the lugs are attached to the case.

The hand engraved caseback is a real treat that one usually admires when taking the watch off or putting it on. It will be interesting to see what other Chopard pieces apply for QF certification. Note from my picture just how thin the caseback really is and the shape of the lugs.

Best,

MSB

 

The pic displaying the relative thickness of the QF is good!  Thanks.

L.U.C has indeed move up the case size to 41mm.  Only ChronoOne, Pro One & Pro One GMT is at 42mm.
I'm still one of those who still can wear a 35, 36mm classic.

Yes looking forward to see L.U.C's next QF.... this time should have the swan-neck regulator and perhaps the variner balance .

Kong

Proof 1: This is the first time I read such a detailed write up about this watch by Kong.

Proof 2: It has only 250 pieces.  Till to date, you can still find one at the AD shop ( To be precise, I found out about one month ago in Kuala Lumpur).  How many years already since its release date?

Proof 3: It only attracts most people to count number of bees.

As an owner of LUC QF, I can only say that it is extremely difficult to find an opportunity to pay so little to enjoy so much of the high quality piece of work.

The watch surprisingly posseses hybrid characteristic of a casual watch and a dress watch.  It is very subtle at first glance but at a closer scrutiny and with a razor-sharp eye like Kong, you will be able to find out the minute details of this watch.  It wears comfortably on my wrist despite its diameter.  More importantly, it tells time clearly and accurately.

This is the first time I saw the movement posted by Kong.  What can I say? I say it is marvellous.

After reading Kong's post, I feel like I am wearing a Dufour's Simplicity and my pocket is not hurt.  I may sound a bit exaggerating but this is what I truely feel.

Regards

Ling     

when he was here at Tempus 2007.  After his talk I went to ask him a few questions...before he answered, he asked me to show him what's on my wrist!

He look at the watch for a while and said, " Very good watch".

Tempus 2007


Kong

Beginning of this year, I attended the Chopard GTG and discovered the LUC Qualite Fleurier. Immediately, I am smitten by it. The next day, I verified with the Boutique about the availability of the watch and concurrently, I asked my AD to search a piece ofr me. Just 2 days before the Chinese New Year, my AD informed me that there is still a piece available. I rushed to the shop to purchase the watch and becoming the owner of this limited edition piece(250) of the LUC QF, the first watch from Chopard passed and awarded the QF certificate.  I made the decision to buy this watch in less than 2 weeks as good watch did not came by often.

This is  a beautiful timepiece, the dial in two colour tone made it very contrasting, the hand is also unique  as it only appeared in some of the old collection. Even the hour's markers are special. This  shows that Chopard is very detailed  and derious in her work. I cannot see the movement as it does not have a sapphire crystal caseback. However the caseback is engraved witha piece of craftwork which is another beauty. This it hardly seen in other timepieces.  During the Chinese New Year, my relatives and friends compared the LUC QF and Moser Mayu which my brother owened. A small survey showed that out of 13 people, 10 of them selected the Chopard LUC QF over the Moser Mayu, because the watch is more charming, artistic, warn and classic. Moser Mayu is solid, cool and more engineered. Women even more likes the LUC QF.

The watch (LUC QF) had gone through the chronometer test, thus there is no doubt in its accuracy, but I still performed a test to see how accurate it is. I conducted a 2 weeks interval test and record the readings, the result showed that one week measurement is 23 seconds and another week is 27 seconds, i,e. the variation is between 3 to 5 seconds per day.

The QF certificate tested on the reliability, functions and surface finishing of the watch, where more paremeters were tested as compared to Geneve Seal Test. Therefore, this watch is certainly of great quality.

This is  a fantastic watch in both human an technical engineering.  I had no regret in purchasing  this watch and I am glad that I owned it.

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Wow 10 out of 13 picked the LUC QF over the Moser Mayu?  Impressive!

Cheers,
Anthony

Hi Kong,

Thanks for the review. This is one of my favourite Chopard watches; especially the rose gold version.

Regards,

Tat

have you seen the newer WG edition?

KOng

PM me if anyone wants to know where to get it .

 

George

 

You are seriously poisoning me further in my passion for LUC I am still thinking hard of a 1860...

 

 

Regards

I could not 'poison' anyone... just present the facts and the rest is up to the educated readers.

So if it is working inside you, there must be something authentic about L.U.C.

If thinking hard... there must be something holding you back ... but that's fun...especially the journey to a piece or some call the hunting process.  Enjoy!

Kong

PS : 1860 is a classic and the diameter is at 36.5mm ... so you may wish to check out the Twist or the Tech Twist.