Baselworld/SIHH

Baselworld 2010: Editor’s Introduction
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

Dear PuristS,

Welcome to the PuristSPro Baselworld 2010 Report.  It is traditional to thank our moderators (Marcus Hanke, Don Corson, Jerome Berder) and guest writers (Jocke, Tony Axelzon) for their contributions in the spirit of PuristS.  I also thank our sponsors, PIAGET, who took all the rotating banner slots, such that they don’t actually rotate! Check out their banner at the bottom of our report pages; clicking the banner transports you to another magical place.

Even if you have read the individual brand reports before, please do read them again because this is the REVISED edition and I have added material and photos to the early drafts.

I apologise for using press photos at times because I dropped my cameras (plural). 

Note to self: Even if you have the top-of-the-range photographers' camera bag, still remember to do up the zipper!

Baselworld is a lot more difficult to cover than SIHH because it is bigger and broader. There were 292 watch brands, 40 jewellery brands and 124 ‘related’ brands at Basel this year. We would need a reporting team ten times bigger and staying twice as long to cover everything. Thus, this report is a succinct focus on the things that caught PuristS’ interest during the time that we had.

Some cynics say that all you ever need to see at Baselworld can be found in Halle 1, and more specifically on the ground level. Some even say that Baselworld is all about the central zone in Halle 1.0!

 

You walk past the haute horlogerie family firms of Patek Philippe and Chopard on one side of the avenue, to be intimidated by the Rolex Fortress on the other side. Note that the fortress appears to include 2 stone towers and 4 times the land area of other brands. The only things missing were a portcullis and drawbridge; but there was a water feature!

Then, you have to negotiate the SWATCH Bunker, anchored by Omega at one end and flanked by their haute horlogerie brands – Breguet/Jaquet Droz and Blancpain/Glashuette Original – laid out as twinned bastions.  It is conspicuous that Jaquet Droz shares the booth with big brother Breguet, reflecting the special interest that Mr N. Hayek Sr. has accorded the brand since he took the reins at the brand.

Everybody else who is anybody in haute horlogerie, either by reputation or mostly by marketing budget, scrambles for the remaining space on that floor. The Breitling aquarium is still there and seems to be the most interesting thing at that booth.

 

The Japanese giants of Citizen and ‘PuristS-favourite’ Seiko are allowed to hold the rear perimeter of Halle 1, at the boundary with Halle 5, where the highest and the lowest of horology reside. Upstairs in Halle 5, one can find the smallest independent watchmakers; amongst them are some of the best as well as ‘The Rest’…..

For those without million dollar budgets or who are related to the Hayeks, hotels in Basel are no go areas without long-standing reservations. So, I camped in a bed & breakfast in Germany for a few days. Luckily our friends at some watch brands were able to recommend hotels in Basel for the last couple of days.

 

But the upside was to be able to see real customers at the show as well as the trade delegates. I could also meet up with some PuristS including old friends that I have not seen since 2003. It’s a funny old world when we ‘converse’ with friends on the website daily but only meet physically every 6 years! Here is our long-time moderator Herr Dr Prof Marcus Hanke with his portable photo studio.

Where else can you get to taste cheese from Mr Biver’s private farm? Pretty good cheese too; as he says that he may not make the best watches in Switzerland but he is sure he makes the best cheese!

 

We got to celebrate special anniversaries with our Chopard friends.

We got to meet famous and pretty people and see a revolutionary horology concept.

We got to meet arty watchmakers from Finland.

 

 

Some old friends who had joined SIHH came back for a sneak peek.

Greubel & Forsey

 

We were entertained by the Alder Family at a dinner hosted by our SWATCH Hong Kong friends.

I managed to lose my laptop computer on Day 1 but miraculously found it on Day 2. It had all of Day 1 photos on it so this report almost stopped before it started!  I also managed to drop my camera near the end of the visit so I apologise for the funky exposures at some of the booths.

 

The show kicked off with a procession of dignitaries and horology bosses visiting the big brands down the central avenue of Halle 1.

 

The scramble of press photographers was quite amusing as they fought to get shots of Mr Hayek Sr. and his buddies.

Where were they all heading? It was the display in the centre of ‘Bunker SWATCH’ that announced developments of the old Peace Hotel in Shanghai. Now we know where the next target is.  Even some established brands told me that their designs had been skewed to attract the Chinese market.

What other impressions did we get from Baselworld 2010? It is the Year of the Chronograph, with new movements from Patek Philippe, Tag-Heure, Omega and Hublot amongst others. Those with chronograph movements already in their line-up were finding new ways to present the complication e.g. Breitling, Christophe Claret, de Grisogono, Jaquet Droz, Seiko Ananta, Tag-Heure, Tissot, Tudor, and Zenith,

Some brands like Bulgari and Chopard were content to bring out simple movements to act as a base for future developments.

Let’s sally forward and see rest of the show……

 

This message has been edited by MTF on 2010-08-18 01:19:50

Angular Momentum is a small brand making only unique pieces using some very unique techniques.

The Freehand Collection.
These cases are all turned by hand on a manual lathe.  Each one is different as are all the dials.  The luminous material on the dials is a special type of ceramic with very high luminous capabilities which are not visible at all in these pictures.

Freehand Pocketwatch





A "Color-Tec" watch made using hand forged color mosaic steel.





From tha Artisan Timepiece collection


Front, a forest in France, Verre Èglomisé painting on the crystal

Back, pleasures in the forest in France, Verre Èglomisé painting on the back

Verre Èglomisé painting on the dial


La Montre Chinoise





Japan lacquer dial






Martin Pauli of Angular Momentum

This material is a mixture of enamel and luminous sulfides according to the AM website.
As I understand it it needs a longer time than luminova to "charge up" the light, around 10 minutes, but thereafter remains light for much longer than luminova.  It is fired like a real enamel and becomes very hard.  AM uses it as well on the interior, dials and hands, as the exterior of their cases.
Don

 

I could not possibly cover all the novelties as Balmain produces hundreds of models in three main lines: Tradition, Downtown and Trendies. The movements are mostly quartz but there are a few automatic movements in the range. About 90% of their range is for women but there are some men’s’ watches as well. As sponsor of the Miss Switzerland contest in recent years, Balmain has also brought out a Miss Suisse collection of watches.

 

NOVELTIES

Arabesques Bijou
The arabesque is more than just a design motif. It is Balmain's signature. The Arabesques Bijou is deeply artistic, with emphasis given to the meanderings even beyond the movement case. The resulting design is a mix of jewel-watch and sculpture. The Maison de St-Imier designers have been inspired over the years by this Arabic art form, frequently using it, on the dials or on the case.

But this season, they have flagrantly displayed it as a sculptural combination of shapes (the roundness of the case and the oval formed by the arabesque structure), textures and the effects of light. The 34 Wesselton diamonds on the case rim - 0.17 carats in all - and the mother-of-pearl dial produce a strong contrast to the black, satin-polished strap.

Technical characteristics
• Case in polished steel 316 L; some models decorated with 34 Wesselton diamonds
• Sapphire crystal
• Choice of dials: black and white mother-of-pearl
• Stainless steel or black satin strap
• Water resistance: 50 m

 

Balmania Chrono Lady
A contraction of ‘Balmain’ and ‘mania’, the Balmainia line was launched in 2006. For 2010, the Maison de St-Imier is presenting its collection in a new light, with an extravagant Chrono Lady version. The case and bracelet have been reworked and are imposing; the weight and feel of the bracelet is by no means 'cheap' despite the affordable price point. The new bezel is now decorated with notches. The left-hand rim gets a logo decorated with two screws. The bracelet has a double-snap clasp for increased comfort and functionality – unusual for a ladies' watch. The sportier, more urban, more outgoing Balmainia Chrono Lady has a variety of options - 34 Wesselton diamonds on the bezel, a black and white mother-of-pearl dial and matching silicon strap.

Technical characteristics
• Case in polished steel 316 L; some models decorated with 34 Wesselton diamonds
• Sapphire crystal
• Choice of dials: traditional silvered arabesques, black lacquered, white mother-of-pearl and black mother-of-pearl
• Stainless steel or black or white silicon strap
• Water resistance: 50 m

 

Conclusion:
This brief sketch is just to capture a flavour of Balmain for our community. I was interested in the trends mirrored by Balmain with titanium rectangular chronographs in 1997, ladies chronographs in 2001 and about half of their ladies watches today are chronographs.

Not every beginner PuristS can start with a multi-million dollar grand complication. At their price point, the construction and feel of the Balmain watches seem good value and some even provide mechanical movements to look at.
Balmain has a name in fashion but is not yet within the perimeter of PuristSPro horology geek-dom.   Still, it is a barometer of fashion trends that may permeate throughout the watch industry and for that, I am ‘watch-ing’ them……

Baselworld 2010: Bell & Ross
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

It is always a pleasure to meet "Mr Ross", which we know is a pseudonym for the brand's CEO, Carlos Rosillo. Dressed in that inimitable French style, he has the Gallic way of speaking with his hands.

 

 

NOVELTIES

B&R essentially revealed three new lines this year.

 

RADAR - An innovative display

The RADAR display is simple but takes a while to get used to its departure from normal convention. It portrays the microwave beam that sweeps the circular screen of a radar. Three brightly coloured line segments on three independent concentric disks. They indicate the hours, minutes and seconds as the eye moves towards the centre of the dial. There are two graduated perpendicular lines superimposed on the disks to indicate the time.The coloured line segments indicate a unit of time: red indicates the hours, yellow the minutes and green the seconds.
The important thing is that it works because the technological challenge posed by its design and production required some micro-engineering solutions.

Each disk weighs 30 times more than a watch hand so ultra-light disks needed to be created that maintained the watch’s power reserve and accuracy. Furthermore, each disk needed to be sufficiently resistant so as maintain its integrity and minimize friction. This dual challenge required the development of specific materials and new techniques.

Like our own PuristSPro All Black Rescue, an adjustment to the nearest micron ensures that the disks are constantly parallel; we need to do the same for the 4-hand seconds' hand on the PPro ABR watch.

 

 

BR 03-92 Military Ceramic

The new BR 03 Military Ceramic celebrates the art of military camouflage. This should go down well with the collectors with its spooky green colour.

 

 

Vintage BR 123 & 126 Heritage Collection
A vintage casing for a modern watch

Carlos likes to place the new watches at the end of a line-up of models that came before.

The round casing, traditional in form, evokes memories of the 1940s, with anti-glare matte black carbon finish is inspired by the colour of an aircraft instrument panel.

The vintage curved glass is reproduced but made from sapphire crystal for scratch resistance. The hands and dial marker colour mimics that of old watches with faded yellowing. The natural leather strap, like the watches of old, develops a rich patina over time.

 

 

BUT THERE'S MORE

Just when you thought it was all over, here is a mystery watch.....

Like Day and Night?

 

 

Conclusion:
No doubt the B&R collectors will be waiting in-line for Autumn 2010 to get their military inspired mitts on these novelties.

almost every piece in their collection is a winner. Thanks for posting mate

 

 Faisal

Baselworld 2010: Blancpain
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

Blancpain may be considered a premier brand within the SWATCH Group portfolio together with a handful of true haute horlogerie brethren. Although not quite the favoured child like Breguet, it still has a special place in the SWATCH portfolio. Mr Nick Hayek Sr. acquired Blancpain from the previous owner who had also revived the brand from modern obscurity like Breguet was.

SWATCH treats its special brands….well….specially. They get their own dedicated boutiques and to hold special client events like musical concerts and opera. We wondered what Blancpain had in store for 2010. Many brands have ‘returned to their roots’ during this economic recession and focused on their core strengths with simpler designs but executed well. These caught my eyes…..

 

NOVELTIES

 

Villeret Collection

Baselworld 2010 marks the 275th Anniversary for Blancpain and is the occasion for the debut of a new Villeret Collection. The flagship of the 2010 Villeret Collection is the complete calendar moon phase model fitted with an 8-day power reserve automatic caliber 6639 movement, with its three mainspring barrels and free-sprung titanium balance.  Blancpain used an 18th century design of blued serpentine steel hand for the date display. Two models will be offered: in platinum and in red gold with a grand feu enamel dial.

This movement offers a long power reserve and allows the owner to set any of the indications at any time without fear of damaging the mechanism. Every other moon phases / complete calendar movement forbids changes during certain hours of the day. Blancpain incorporated patented under-lug correctors that produce a clean case side profile, free from adjustment dimples, and which allow the owner to set each indication with finger pushes instead of an adjustment tool.

 

 

L-Evolution Carrousel Saphir

The Carrousel was introduced in 2008, but the 2010 edition has a new movement with plates and bridges made from sapphire. New techniques of polishing sapphire surfaces to work with the pinions, wheels, and moving parts of the movement were developed. The lugs are those of L-Evolution family, being separate parts from the case.

 

 

Fifty Fathoms Collection – Complete Calendar Moon Phase Flyback Chronograph

For 2010 Blancpain expands the Fifty Fathoms line-up to included the complications of a moon phase and a complete calendar together with a column-wheel controlled flyback chronograph.

This newest Fifty Fathoms model, with a 448-part movement, has been fitted with the latest innovations. The moon phase complete calendar mechanism is derived from the caliber F185 movement, offering risk-free setting of any indication regardless of the time of day or night.

Blancpain claims idiot-proof safety to set the calendar indications. Setting is by under lug correctors that eliminate the need for adjusters on the sides of the case and which allow finger-tip setting in place of an adjusting tool. The chronograph base is a vertical clutch column-wheel controlled flyback movement. The stainless steel case is 45 mm in diameter and fitted with a blue coloured sapphire unidirectional bezel and blue dial

 

 

LE BRASSUS, “Carrousel Répétition Minutes Le Brassus”, cathedral gong, grey dial, hand-winding

The press release of Blancpain’s Basel 2010 novelties has already been published. This so-called 'grand complication', combines a flying one-minute carrousel and a cathedral gong minute repeater. What it lacks is a split-second chronograph or perpetual calendar for the full Monty monicker. In any case, this new offering should work better than the Le Brassus 1735 Grande Complication, a legendary ‘prima donna’ of its time.

The minute repeater features a cathedral gong striking mechanism that is attached to the case instead of the movement, ostensibly to improve volume and clarity. The flying regulator is claimed to be idiot-proof; by disconnecting the repeater mechanism from the crown during activation, eliminating the risk of damage if the crown is manipulated. The red gold movement bridges and mainplate are individually hand engraved.

 

Conclusion:
Blancpain is still trading as an haute horlogerie brand within the SWATCH Group. Blancpain does not reach out to clients like Breguet and Glashuette Original do but still has a core fan base with a dichotomy of tastes. The classical line fans are clearly different from the diving watch enthusiasts.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms and other diving watches have an almost cult following on PuristSPro with crossover fans from the Omega and Rolex collectors.

The younger PuristS fans of the Le Brassus and Villeret lines, with no memory of the ‘1735 Grande Complication’, are well satisfied today.

your thoughts on the brand and the novelties.

Unfortunately you interchanged the pictures of the watches (Villeret and LeBrassus) in your report.

Oliver

Some of the most substantial novelties of this year were presented by Breguet. The start was marked by the stunning "Tradition Fusée Tourbillon" in platinum.

Besides its breathtaking beauty, the Fusée Tourbillon features a technical innovation: for the first time, a silicium hairspring was shaped with a Breguet overcoil. Meanwhile, it is not overly difficult to etch flat silicium hairsprings, but due to the innate brittleness of the material the spring, while able to "breath" in one flat layer, is likely to break if bent into another direction. Therefore, it is quite an effort to produce an overcoil on a silicium hairspring.

From a horological point of view, though, such a silicium overcoil is useless. The main reason why silicium hairsprings are increasingly popular with the watch industry, is not the material's neutrality regarding magnetism; the antimagnetic attributes of modern Nivarox are good enough for our watches. However, unlike a metal wire, that has always the same cross-section and thickness, a silicium hairspring, etched from a plate, can be given any shape and thickness variation wanted. Thus, the spring can be designed to breathe centrally, making unnecessary any specially shaped end curves, like the famous Breguet overcoil.


At Breguet, people are well aware about this fact, but: "What would a Breguet be without Breguet overcoil?"Of its 15 basic movements, Breguet intends to switch 8 to silicium hairprings during this year.

Anyway, the "Tradition Fusée Tourbillon" is a wonderful timepiece. The ruthenium-coated bridges and cocks make it appear modern, and match nicely the tourbillon cage and balance wheel made from titanium. The platinum case has a diameter of 41 mm.

My personal favourite of this year's Breguet novelties is the already classic "Tradition", but now in a larger case of 40 mm. Instead of simply putting the known movement from the 37mm version into a larger case, Breguet redesigend the movement, resulting in a larger dial and - consequently - greatly enhanced legibility. The new integration of the power reserve display might lead to some discussions, but I think it to be well done.


Breguet's first complication developed exclusively for ladies is the wonderful "Reine de Naples Sonnerie au Passage". This small timepiece with its distinct shape features a chiming mechanism striking every full hour on two coils. The two hammers can be seen through the white mother-of-pearl dial, while the displayback reveals the hand-engraved automatic movement, shaped to resemble a dove.


Despite its small size, this watch chimes clearly and loudly.

Several months ago, I mused about who would be the first company to release a functionl 10 Hertz-escapement, knowing that several manufacturers were undertaking massive efforts into this direction. I had just not thought that Breguet would be this company. The basic advantages of such a high-frequency escapement would be a gain in accuracy, and a smoother-moving second hand. Theoretically, a chronograph equipped with this movement would be able to measure intervals of 1/20th of a second.

As far as I know, Breguet's "Type XXII GMT" chronograph now is the first fully mechanical 10 Hertz watch. The full escapement is made from silicium, with its low mass being the main condition for such a high oscillation frequency.

While being technically groundbraking, the rest of the "Type XXII" is a bit weird, to say the least: First of all, the chronograph second hand does not cover sixty seconds with one circulation around the dial, but only thirty. So it passes the distance between two minute/second indexes in half a second. This should make it easier to distinguish the 1/20th of a second stopped. However, when we recall how impossible it is to really read the 1/10th of seconds on the chronograph dial of a Zenith "El Primero", it is clear that reading 1/20th on a distance twice as long will not be better. In the contrary: the legibility of the 30 seconds-chronograph hand is as far away from intuitive as it can be. The user of the chronograph has to re-calculate every reading: is the chronograph hand at 6, it has passed not 30, but only 15 seconds, is it at 7, it has not passed 35, but 17.5 seconds, and so on ...


Additionally, the central 60 minutes-counter does not jump and therefore does not permit a really clear reading of the (half-)minutes elapsed. Therefore, the Breguet designers had to add an additionally, somewhat strange display at 12, indicating wether the chronograph hand is in the first or the second half of the minute.

To lead weirdness even further: What appears to be a conventional 12 hours-counter at 6, is in fact a second time zone hand. To permit the distinction of a.m./p.m. of this display, a separate 24 hours-display has been added at 3; apparently overlooking that the latter alone would itself be completely sufficient for showing a second time zone, without the loss of the chronograph's 12 hours-counter.


Personally, I think the first 10 Hertz-movement could have been housed in a watch designed with more care for useability, and more worthy for such a highly innovative technology.

The massive "Marine Royale" alarm watch had been displayed already last year. This year, the large 45 mm case is complemented by matching white or pink gold bracelets. The overall weight of this combination is not disclosed, but in case that the watch is really worn by divers, a lead belt is clearly unnecessary.


Finally, a highlight of this year's Basel fair is shown by Breguet's "haute joaillerie" department: the "Crazy Flower". This is much more than a diamond-encrusted lady's timepiece. Its 116 baguette diamonds arranged around the case in three rows, are all hinged on one side, permitting them to move up and down. Depending from the movement of the wrist this extraordinary piece of jewellery is strapped upon, the diamonds move like a flower opening and closing its petals. The 226 diamonds on the dial are but an additional detail, the show is made by the moving baguettes.

EDITORS NOTE:

Breguet may be considered a premier brand within the SWATCH Group portfolio together with a handful of true haute horlogerie brethren. Like a good thoroughbred, you know it has a special place in the stables with special rations and its luxury stall, when the chairman himself continues as head groomer after relinquishing daily management of the whole Group to a successor.

 

Having revived the brand from modern obscurity, Mr Nick Hayek Sr. polishes this jewel in the SWATCH crown personally and carefully manages its image. Many people still don’t ‘get it’ when they see Breguet as the sponsor of cultural and architectural restoration projects, asking: “Where is the profit in that?” They do not grasp Mr Hayek’s subtle and integrated campaign to recapture the patrimony that is Breguet’s with a history and personal links with famous and infamous people, real and fictional characters, through time. The restoration of the Triannon at Versailles is a portal to the past, before the 2^nd and 1^st Republics and to Marie Antoinette, a contemporary of A.L. Breguet.

 

Having stunned us with the revolving dual tourbillon and Messidor watches in the past, we wondered what Breguet had in store for 2010. Many brands have ‘returned to their roots’ during this economic recession and focused on their core strengths with simpler designs but executed well.  Breguet did not disappoint me that much this year. My favourite was also the 'Tradition with Silicium'- what a melding of two opposing words! For the ladies, the steel Queen of Naples watch is a master stroke in marketing and should be a commercial success.

 

Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

 Is the star of the show,

 

 Thanks

 

 Faisal

Baselworld 2010: Breitling
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

The famous Breitling Acquarium was there again, and still the most interesting thing to see at the Breitling booth.

 

This year, Carl F. Bucherer, the technical brand, fully concentrates on its new "Patravi EvoTec". Since CFB had presented its cal. A1000 movement, critical minds had expressed some doubt whether the unique peripheral rotor would develop enough energy to reliably wind the mainspring barrels. Therefore, it was a logical step to continue the movement evolution with the cal. A1002, adding a power reserve indication.



This indication is attractively integrated into the EvoTec design, blending into the right dial side. As the CFB staff assures, the power reserve display confirms the excellent winding capabilities of the peripheral rotor. Even after the inactivity of a long night's sleep, the indication is said to be still at "high".


Not everybody likes the rubber-coated bezel of the EvoTec. Therefore, a variant is launched with a bare steel bezel, which changes the watch's overall impression from "modern" to "massively masculine". Personally, I prefer the original version, which has the added advantage of a very high rresistance against scratches, whereas the brushed surface finish of the steel bezel shows scratches a lot quicker.


A new stainless steel bracelet offers a cleverly integrated fine adjustment, permitting to adapt the length to changing wrist circumferences during the day.


Last, but not least, the EvoTec is now also conquering the domain of ladies' timepieces: With smaller dimensions and without the weekday indication, the "Patravi EvoTec BigDate" features a sportive design, luminous indications and a big date.

Editor's Note

I have to confess to being a sceptic about the CFB A1000 movement with circumferential winding rotor but am able to admit my mistake. It works.  And it has fooled more than one casual observer that it is a manual winding movement because they cannot see the 'central rotor'. 

The new advertising campaign that emphasises the technical prowess at CFB is a very good idea. I can see clearly what we are getting for our money in the complications and engineering Smart Simplexity®. For example, I did not know how intricate the mechanism to adjust the East-West time zone changes in their TravelTec was until the recent advertising pictures.

One comfort I got from the Ladies Patravi Evotec Big Date is that the A1000 movement can be made into a smaller watch than the current Mens' version. Thus, it is logical that a reasonable sized Mens watch (40mm) can be made in future...even in a round case.

Melvyn Teillol-Foo

This message has been edited by MTF on 2010-04-05 09:26:38

or are the adjustments for the date and day via the crown only?

Thanks for the update Marcus,

Mike

nt

Baselworld 2010: Bulgari
Including an Interview with CEO Frencesco Trapani
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

Before we look at the novelties from Bulgari, we cannot escape the backchat about the Daniel Roth and Gérald Genta lines within the Bulgari brand.  On 15th January 2010, Mr. Francesco Trapani, CEO of the Bulgari Group, announced that the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth collections will be part of the watch assortment under the Bulgari brand starting from September 2010.

Trapani said: "Now it is time for a further step: to complement Bulgari watchmaking with a strong presence in the high-end and grandes complications watch creations. While preserving their technical and aesthetic qualities, the Daniel Roth and the Gérald Genta timepieces will from now be fully integrated into the collection of the Bulgari Brand. This alliance is sealed on the new watch creations, where the Bulgari Brand is featured along with the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth logos."

The fevered discourses amongst the watch collector and connoisseur community raised a notch or two, after confirmation of the rumours that had been swirling in the undercurrents of chatter on French websites. Much emotional currency was expended in tirade and bluster for and against this ‘merger’. Most of the rants were in opposition and directed at the perceived loss of some sort of value as Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth products.

Others worried about the ability of Bulgari sales teams to sell a technical product rather than rely on the cachet of the Bulgari name. The most vehement criticism was directed against perceived bad treatment and termination of the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth corporate and boutique personnel. Counter-arguments opined that regular customers would not care about the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth names on the dial nor the movements, as long as they like the designs.  Thus, there was much anticipation by the journalists and attendees before the presentation of the 2010 novelties; what would Bulgari Group produce?

Interview with Mr Francesco Trapani (FT), CEO Bulgari Group

PPro: Did you always plan to incorporate Gérald Genta (GG) and Daniel Roth DR) into Bulgari brand instead of remaining group members?

FT: When we purchased both companies in 2000, we had in mind to purchase two things. We wanted the brand names but more than that, the technical expertise in high-end watchmaking. We wanted to upgrade all our abilities. We then acquired the dial maker, the case constructor and the base manufacture, in order to integrate all this know-how. The objective was to have a fully integrated Manufacture to give us the ability to be successful in the market.

To be honest with you, the idea was NOT to do what we announced a few months ago. This idea came about because of the global economic crisis. We thought the market would have been difficult, especially for the small brands. We decided to try to leverage the strength of Bulgari on one side with the Manufactures on the other. Bulgari is a big brand, very appreciated and prestigious on a global basis while the smaller brands have fantastic products, really high quality and watch expertise. We tried to match the two things to have something stronger; to make 1+1=3.

PPro: How will the design cultures of the previous brands maintain their identities in Bulgari?

FT: As a Bulgari-Brand man and not as Bulgari-Group man, I was in love with some of the products from GG and DR that I thought were very ‘Bulgari’ in their DNA because their shapes were strong and daring. We decided to redesign the dials that in our opinion were not Bulgari enough. In the case of GG, they were a bit too extravagant and not long-lasting. In the case of DR, maybe a bit too classy and ‘dusty’. From Bulgari side, we have added some longer-lasting elements, very refined….very Italian. We are offering to the final client a much stronger product portfolio with three collections – Bulgari, Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth – within the Bulgari brand and marketing organisation. We keep the technical competence of the GG/DR lines but expose the products to a wider audience.

PPro: Do you think that the GG/DR clients to date have been too ‘geeky’ or interested in the technical aspects of the movements; too specialised? Do you think the design modifications will attract a wider customer base?

FT: I think so. There will be some – the ‘extremers’ – who may miss the old style, but the number of people who are interested in the new proposals will be high enough. We have something that should increase the business not just because of the bigger resources of the Bulgari organisation and boutiques, but also because the intrinsic quality and aesthetics of the products are more appealing.

PPro: Although people understand the benefits of the Bulgari brand and organisation, some have commented that you may be losing some ‘love’ and passion from the GG/DR fans in losing the stand-alone brands; how do you respond?

FT: I would like to say two things. First, GG/DR will remain as the ‘centre of excellence’ in Le Sentier; involved in the development of new movements for the two collections and in fact for the Bulgari collection too. Second, we live in a very dynamic world and have to recognise when changes make certain things unaffordable. To be honest, today it is difficult to be viable with a limited base. Without doing this, probably we would have seen GG/DR going bust and disappearing from the market.

PPro: Can you comment on the chat-room rumours that GG/DR employees were treated badly during this absorption of the brands into Bulgari? That has been the biggest source of rant and rage amongst the fans.

FT: There are three things that should be said:-
1) We are keeping the ‘centre of excellence’ in Le Sentier and will invest to increase capacity because we hope it has to respond to larger needs as we become more successful tomorrow.

2) There is a huge respect within the Bulgari Group for the GG/DR centres of excellence because the upgrading of the Bulgari collection and quality in recent years was driven by the experience of Le Sentier.

3) A certain number of employees in administration and sales at GG/DR may leave the organisation because of the re-structuring; but they were not the only ones. Together with the people from GG/DR, we also lost Bulgari employees because of the re-structuring at Bulgari that was much larger than the GG/DR part. Unfortunately, we lost a certain number of people but the rumour is totally ungrounded!

PPro: Some people have commented that we know about the movements from GG/DR are inside the watches so why not leave out the old names and just move to Bulgari brand in one swift move?

FT: We heard this also but I think it is important to be honest with our history. It is true that these Bulgari branded pieces now are based on the history and know-how from GG/DR as the centres of excellence; it adds something to the products.

PPro: Thank you from the PuristS for your candour.

*****************************************************************************************************************************

The visit to Bulgari ‘booth’ at Baselworld is an amazing experience. First, it is not a mere booth but the whole basement of Halle 4 approached by the steepest staircase in Basel. Inside, there are many levels of exhibition rooms, private salons and a full size restaurant.

 

NOVELTIES

 

We see the history of the brand and the various Manufactures. The 2010 novelties have been well covered on our Bulgari forum so I will only highlight the models that caught my eye.

 

Various updates to the GG/DR models were seen and new colours made available.

Lumiere Tourbillon in rose gold for the first time

 

 

 

 

Bulgari Collection Daniel Roth Endurer Chronosprint

This is going to be a winner for Bulgari. The cleaned up dial and detail is now cohesive and appealing. A great starter sporty Bulgari watch from the Collection Daniel Roth.

 

Bulgari Collection Gérald Genta Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph

The first reaction was, “What a mouthful of name!” I understand that Bulgari wanted to “seal the alliance on the new watch creations, where Bulgari Brand is featured along with the Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth logos”, to quote Mr Trapani; but “Really? 19 syllables?”  When the dust settles, we could just call this the Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph. Those who care – already know about the Octo case and Gérald Genta movement as used before. Those who don’t care – must just like the watch on its own merits. Some commented that it was not as ‘bold’ as they would have expected; Gérald Genta was known for numerals that ‘popped’ out on the dial. Other said they liked the subtle refinement overlaid on clearly Gérald Genta motifs.

 

Some wished for a switch in position of the Bulgari and Gérald Genta logos but I thought that was irrational and petty bluster as they were not complaining about the design but just the precedence. Overall, it was received well and the current Mrs MTF (final arbitrator) pronounced it ‘Acceptable’. Quod erat demonstratum.

 

 

 

Bulgari Collection Gérald Genta Grand Sonnerie Tourbillon

Those that are in the know, are cognisant of the strides that Gérald Genta has taken in developing striking watches over the last decade, spearheaded by their work on the measurement of musicality. Having developed their proprietary analysis program, we are expecting better strikers from Gérald Genta.

This dial aesthetic is polarising. The retrograde-hours arc complements the arc window of the minutes display. One can understand the balance of the linear segments of hour markers on the left of the dial with the 4 circles on the right side; but the (E)mpty – (F)ull indicators seem incongruent with the refinement expected at this level of luxury.

 

Collection Gerald Genta Octo Jumping Hour Bi-Retrograde

Cleaned-up dial , not too extravagant, or wider appeal but stil with that unique movement Cal 7722.

 

The Gefica lives!

 

 

Calibro 168 and Sotirio Bulgari

The most important novelty is actually the Bvlgari in-house base automatic movement Calibro 168. This simple basic movement is the most important step for vertical integration in haute horlogerie. It sets the scene for less reliance on other movement manufacturers for future all-Bulgari watches.

 

The Sotirio Bulgari Calibro 168 is a winner as an entry level all-Bulgari watch.

 

 

Diagono Professional X-Pro

The updated Diagono Professional is another winner with chronograph and GMT function. The new strap is very comfortable although some will miss the old rubber/metal linked bracelet.

 

 

Serpenti
Vintage and new models were displayed as were the Tubogas models

 

 

 

Il Giocatore Veneziano
New dial colours are available for this minute repeater gambling dice display watch. A working automaton was also shown.

 

 

A real Il Giocatore Veneziano automaton was demonstrated.

First, you had to wind it up

Cups lifted to show '2' and '5'.

Cups dropped.

 

Right cup lifted and the '2' has changed to a '3'.

Right cup dropped.

 

Left cup lifted to show the '5' has changed to a '1'.

Ergo, don't gamble with the Gambler !

Conclusion:
Bulgari design culture and motifs are usually described as bold, colourful, earthy, dramatic, raw emotion, lusty, and generational. Their celebrity clientele have also been bold, larger-than-life characters, dramatic (Richard Burton), emotional (Elizabeth Taylor), lusty (Audrey Hepburn), and generational (Kirk and Michael Douglas). This may answer those who worried that the Gérald Genta style may have been too flamboyant for Bulgari to assimilate.

The vertical integration of manufacturing at Bulgari Group is now ‘complete’, with internal expertise to make every part of the watch – dials, cases, bracelets, movements, and gem-setting – if they wish. Obviously, for pricing reasons, some outsourced components are used in the more affordable models. The acquisition of Cadras Design, Prestige D’Or, Crova, Finger, Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth appear to complete the game plan started in 1984 but accelerated after the 1995 listing of Bulgari SpA on the Italian Stock Exchange.  Bulgari is sounding the warning to the likes of Cartier and Chopard: they are seriously in the watch business now!

[Typographic error edited]

This message has been edited by MTF on 2010-04-07 07:09:31

I have been waiting for this!

no loss of essence for DR or GG took place and The Gefica lives on with a bit sport touches if i may call it so.

 

 Thanks for posting

What is that beast of a watch?  Looks like a "genta with a skeletonized dial and a tourbillon? "

The Sotirio is a winner.  Love that bracelet design.

 

Thanks MTF,

 

Mike

Baselworld 2010: Chopard LUC
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

 

 

Although Chopard LUC thrilled us with a useful complication in 2009 – Lunar Big Date – we all knew that they were saving their best novelties for 2010 because this is their 150th anniversary year.  We were not disappointed. 

Chopard LUC brought out 4  (count them) new calibers for 2010; remarkable indeed!

 

 

 

LUC Louis-Ulysse – The Tribute

Nearly 2 years ago, we interviewed Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele and guessed correctly that LUC would re-introduce a pocket watch movement for their 150th anniversary. click here

 Although Mr Scheufele was stunned by our psychic abilities, he swore us to secrecy and explained a little more about the patrimony and modern need to train young watchmakers at the Geneva School of Watchmaking, that Chopard LUC supports. Young apprentices need to learn their craft on large movements and there were no quality movements produced anymore.  The new Cal EHG (Ecole Horlogerie Geneve) has been used in tribute to Louis-Ulysse Chopard with 150 pieces that are finished to the ultra-luxe standards befitting the celebration. Finally, we can talk about it!

Furthermore, a link with the Scheufele family that founded the Eszeha brand and now continues the tradition of Chopard LUC as a family-run business was incorporated in the ‘LUC Louis-Ulysse – The Tribute’. In 1912, Karl Friedrich the First patented the adjustable lug & cradle system that switches the pocket watch to wrist watch in seconds. From a family that is deeply interested in motoring and classic car racing in the modern Mille Miglia races, my analogy is a convertible sports car!

The watch embodies the best and traditional features of both families’ watch making roots but made relevant for today. Everywhere, you can see how LUC did not compromise on making things difficult for itself! The case is deliciously curved in concave and convex forms; the ‘bezel’ architrave mouldings and case-side satin finishing interplaying with the shiny surfaces.  The vertical satin brushed finish on the sides of the case and lugs are highlighted by the shiny top surfaces.

 

At over 49mm diameter, The Tribute is clearly a pocket watch but with the optional Eszeha cradle for occasional cool wristwatch usage.  The raison d'etre for such a watch is an amicable way to conciliate between the patrimony of heritage and the contingency of education that is vital for the futurity of mechanical watch making.

The bold roman numerals against a white dial reinterpret the original LUC dials which is emboldened by the thin ‘bezel’ – the dial comes into your view and everything else fades into soft focus – that’s legibility!

On the wrist, one feels immediate connection with the past, present and future all at once. For this ex-moderator of PuristSPro Chopard forum, an indescribable emotion welled up and I had to choke back the tears.  No – it was not some marketing, melodramatic, hype but the memories that flooded back about my introduction to true manufacture haute horlogerie, with the LUC 1.96 and 1.98, as well as early lurking on ThePuristS.com . Watch collecting is not just about the timepieces……it’s also about the experiences and people in your life that juxtapose with the watches.

My only complaint, and it’s a personal choice, is that I would have preferred a real fired enamel dial to complete the wish-list. But, I’m the same old-fashioned guy who refuses to use FaceBook and Twitter!

 

 

LUC 150 All-in-One

To mark its 150th anniversary, Chopard presents one of the rarest complications of the watchmaking art: the Equation of Time. This is combined with a Perpetual Calendar and Tourbillon, to provide an All-In-One masterpiece that is chronometer-certified by the COSC and wearing the Poinçon de Genève – a strictly limited edition of 15 pieces each of the white gold, rose gold and white gold with baguette diamonds versions.

 

This was really an unexpected surprise that Chopard pulled out of their miracle bag; many will covet but only few will possess….well….15 lucky few per edition.

 

 

LUC Engine One Tourbillon

For the ‘Young Turks’ in the PuristS community, Chopard LUC has also zoomed forward to a sporty platform with a new case shape and design motif in the LUC Engine One Tourbillon. From 0 – 150 in the blink of a century and a half!  Without going as ‘crazy tech’ as their Tech product lines, LUC has managed to carve out a new engine block and niche market that is distinctive from the regular sports watches in their portfolio viz. Mille Miglia.

The case shape is logical when you see the engine block inside; whoever heard of a round engine compartment in a sports car? Some commentators have likened it to the Daniel Roth ellipso-curve case but there are only so many ways to “square a circle”. The different treatment of the LUC with distinct crease lines at the transition between the curve and straight lines of the bezel and case sides, make this case its own shape. Again, the interplay between satin brushed and shiny surfaces serves to accentuate the “hewn from a solid engine block’ engineering feel.

The sapphire crystal, front and back, evoke the inspection windows of a race car. I almost expected to see 48 racing cams whizzing along under the hood. The Tourbillon Reserve Marche TRM meter looks like a fuel gauge at 12 o’clock but hopefully, it should not be as heavy on consumption as a normal racing engine and the reserves should last 60 hours.

LUC applies the COSC to all their tourbillions because “that is the right thing to do” when promoting the tourbillon as an aid to chronometry – how many other brands dare to subject their tourbillons to independent testing?

This is a ‘cool’ watch, not only for the automotive buff but also for anyone wanting something different.  There are not many ‘shaped’ watch models with tourbillon out there and certainly none with the ‘Engine One’ for the watch engine.  Only 150 kool katz out there can have one.

 

 

L.U.C. 1937

For its 150th anniversary, Chopard chose to highlight their prowess in elegance and understatement by presenting the L.U.C 1937 model – a steel watch powered by the new L.U.C 1.010 self-winding movement chronometer-certified by the COSC. The anniversary model is issued in a limited edition of 1937 pieces.

 

1937 was a pivotal year in Chopard history, when the founder's grandson Paul-André Chopard chose to leave the Jura region where LUC was founded, to establish the brand in Geneva. In tribute to this landmark event, the Manufacture presents the L.U.C 1937 model, with pure, understated lines.

The crucial novelty for LUC fans is the L.U.C 1.010 movement that represents a significant landmark in the history of L.U.C movements. It is accurate, reliable, efficient, and designed to facilitate assembly. Get this folks!  It was specifically developed to accommodate industrial-scale production......

 

 

 

LUC Tech Tourbillon Carbon Fibre Limited Edition

This was the surprise of the moment as it was squirreled out of a secure place.  It is really light and somehow the black dial makes this a subdued Tech line that can be appealing.

Even the winding crank is carbon fibre!

 

 

 

 

Animal World Collection

I know this collection is listed as for ladies, in celebration of the Chopard 150th anniversary, but I can’t help liking them as a gentleman. I have to confess to sometimes borrowing the current Mrs MTF’s black ceramic Happy Diamonds watch.  The black ceramic allows me to ‘rationalise’ and the dancing diamonds just make me smile as they twirl like whirling dervishes. How do they do that?

 

Others

 

 

LUCeum Museum Pieces that tell the story of Chopard

Full circle back to the Pocket watch

 

Conclusion:
It’s been a ‘vintage’ year for Chopard LUC and they have celebrated their 150th year in style. Building on the experience regained since 1996, the people at LUC have justly deserved the accolade of the inaugural PuristSPro Purity Prize awarded for the pure excellence of horology, and in particular, for the LUC Lunar One.

Thanks for posting.

 

 Faisal

Baselworld 2010: Jaquet Droz
By Melvyn Teillol-Foo

Jaquet Droz (J*D) is one of the four brands in the SWATCH Group that market themselves as haute horlogerie brands. At the entrance to the SWATCH Bunker at Baselworld, those four brands are split into two bastions: Blancpain and Glashuette Original on the right, with Breguet and Jaquet Droz on the left. Since the departure of Mr Manuel Emchs, Mr Nicholas Hayek Sr. has taken leadership of J*D and sent in his Breguet troopers.

We were more interested in what they had in store for J*D than the actual watches themselves. The press releases of the J*D novelties have been posted on our website already so I highlight the ones that caught my eye.

NOVELTIES

The big story at J*D is the expansion of their customer base and thrust into China. They will keep the exclusivity of the high-end, almost bespoked watchmaking with the fancy dials, piece unique and low production limited editions at high prices.

At the same time, they will design watches with a broader appeal and in steel to conquer the lower price point. History, brand name and marketing are very important in China as seen from the popularity ranking lists there with Omega and Rado at the top of the mid-range and Vacheron Constantin, Cartier and Breguet leading the top end. With their shiny new factory and other SWATCH resources, J*D want to ramp up production far beyond what they do now.

The other big story is that just as J*D has won their legal battle to use screwed sub-dial appliqués, their general design has moved away from all those fussy sub-dial motifs – talk about irony!  Check these out….

 

Steel J*D watches

 

 

 

Grande Heure Minute Onyx

 

 

For the Year of the Tiger…

 

 

TIME WRITER

Finally, from their patrimony of automaton-maker Jaquet Droz, they made an updated version for the 21st century. The full resources of mighty SWATCH Group took years to come up with this mechanical marvel that writes the time shown on the clocks on a card.

 

Conclusion:
With the expansion of the product appeal, maybe the re-vamped J*D will have the breadth and depth of products to support a forum on PuristSPro again? We’ll keep watch-ing their progress.

Never start a land war in Asia, and never go in against a Sicilian when death is on the line!

Mr. Journe (right or wrong in his argument) forgot this...

I have no doubt that this was a regrouping year with the senior management changing.

Funny how times have changed.  A few years ago when the J*D forum was still very much active I recall J*D claiming that they would only create pieces in precious metal.  Then there was the first Grande Heure Minute in stainless steel which was promoted as the ONLY model which would be created in SS.  Now the stainless steel line is expanding !

Good luck to Mr. Hayek Sr. and J*D

There is still a strong group of J*D lovers here on PuristSPro.

I promise I'll be the first to post when the J*D forum returns !

Thanks MTF

Mike

This message has been edited by mkt33 on 2010-04-04 17:49:27

Nice Princess Bride quote...love the movie.

Baselworld 2010: Laurent Ferrier

By Don Corson

Laurent Ferrier is a watchmaker in Geneva with over 30 years of experience at Patek.  After years of dreaming he set out to create with his son and two others a watch movement "to be the pleasure of watchmakers".
He has achived this goal.  Very classical, understated, his watch is a real beauty, here in white gold with a black dial.






The tourbillon movement stands out with it's use of a Straumann double hairspring.  According to Mr. Ferrier this double hairspring, two identical hairsprings placed at 180° and inverse to eachother to negate and unsymetry and center of gravity affects, produces results and an ease of regulation that he didn't expect.
Unfortunately these pictures taken under poor lighting conditions on a running watch do not show the hairsprings very well.

















Notice the level of finishing of the cage parts.











The version in yellow gold with a white dial.

BaselWorld 2010: Romain Gauthier

By Don Corson

Romain Gauthier adds to his Prestige collection the new small seconds watches with the calber 2206 hms.

To the present hour, minutes models that we know well, such as these below ...

Romain has added a small seconds version, here the version in red gold.








The movement retains the well known architecture with changes for a seconds wheel.


The level of finishing remains top class.

EDITOR'S NOTE

Gauthier is fast becoming the desired one for fine finishing in the steps of Voutilainen and Dufour.

Melvyn Teillol-Foo

This year, Glashütte Original continued its course to consolidate its various lines. After an era of fireworks with new models each year, GO now concentrates on presenting fewer novelties, but with the intention of offering those at the dealers within a shorter time.

The "PanoMatic Lunar XL" is the larger version of the moonphase PanoMatic. With 42mm diameter, it is dimensioned following the current market demand. Unlike some other manufacturers, whose XL-variants seem to be rather plump and disproportioned, the PanoMatic XL is a perfectly harmonious design. It is available in pink gold and stainless steel. The latter will be especially popular, due to its attractive grey galvanized dial.


Even more stunning is the stainless steel variant of the "PanoInverse XL". Its double swanneck-regulator, visible on the "Dial" side, makes this watch absolutely unique. Unlike the original version in gold cases, the new steel variant does not have blued screwheads. The mirror-polished finish of the steel screwheads now perfectly matches the ruthenium-coated plates of the movement. In my personal opinion, this variant is even more attractive than the golden ones.


Finally, the "Senator Sixties", too, received its panorama date. Located between the dial center and 6, the panorama date does not disturb the unique appearance of the "Sixties", but offers more everyday comfort. Spontaneously I had regretted that GO had not chosen the unique typefont of the 13, 3, 6 and 9 on the dial also for the date display. However, it was explained to me that this, while having been the preference of the GO staff as well, had not worked, due to the very long and slim proportions of this font. Consequently, a sans serif font typically used in 1960s printing, was chosen for the panorama date.


The "Senator Chronograph XL" was now released with a bright dial made from German silver:


While all novelties presented until now have been variations of existing watches and movements, the first technically true novelty is the "PanoMaticCounter XL". The PanoMaticChrono has been modified by adding a counting mechanism. Thus, the new cal. 96-01 permits counting upward from 1 to 99, or downward from 99 to 1, depending on the pusher pressed. What you want to count, is not specified, but for people having trouble to sleep and who are counting sheep, this might be a perfect function ...


Finally, one of the most interesting innovations of this year's fair, is the "Senator Diary". This magnificent watch has an integrated alarm chime. Responsible for the extraordinarily long alarm sound of more than 90 seconds is a separate, manually-wound spring barrel. This, however, is not the innovation: All previously released mechanical alarm wristwatches were able to preset the alarm but for one day, most even for twelve hours only. The "Diary" has a complex mechanism (the movement consists of 594 parts!), permitting to preset the alarm for a complete month! The alarm sound is rather loud and not unpleasant, somewhere between the classic Schild AS 5008 (LJP 5900) and the JLC 912. When worn on the wrist, the vibrations are felt clearly.

The "Diary" has a case diameter of 42.2 mm and is offered in pink gold and stainless steel.

Editor's Note

Since our PuristS Tour of the GO manufacture in 2003, when I met Herr Dr Prof Marcus Hanke for the first time, after which, the current Mrs MTF bought me a GO watch for Christmas, I have been following the brand's output with interest. We've had some howlers like the regulator with tourbillon that cut outs a segment of the minute ring; surely the counterintuitive design of the decade as the point of a regulator dial is to read the minutes clearly!

The most interesting mechanical novelty is the 'Senator Diary' for the sheer number of parts needed to function; I am in awe.  But, my Blackberry does the same job and can be set in seconds.....

Still, it is good to see GO still offering value for money in the haute horlogerie segment for SWATCH Group. After the recent battering taken by the German watchmaking industry from the economic downturn, any sign of life is a good thing.

Melvyn Teillol-Foo

. . . and note to self: portable light tent on the to-do list for 2010! Cordially, Art

BaselWorld 2010: Beat Haldimann

By Don Corson

The tourbillon as poetry in pure form, that is what Beat Haldimann's watches are about.
Beat showed his H1 with the single tourbillon floating above the dial, the H2 with two tourbillons in resonance floating above the dial and the enigmatic H8, the tourbillon as pure kinetic art, without timekeeping duties.

The H1

The H2

The H8

Beat Haldimann wearing a H1 prototype.

 

EDITOR'S NOTE

The H1 is still probably the PuristS Choice for the purity of a siingle central tourbillon - Simply the Best.

Twin tourbillons are a marvel and so is the mayhaps Purest H8 for being just a tourbillon without timekeeping dutes

Melvyn Teillol-Foo