Omega

As most vintage Omega collectors know, the Genève model line is unique in more than just name. I say that because when it was first introduced, in 1953, it was meant to make a statement, coming in the wake of Omega’s one-two-three sweep of the the previous year’s chronometer competition held at the Geneva Observatory. The early Genève models were, therefore, positioned at the higher end of the Omega catalogue.

Some collectors, myself included, are very attracted to the combination of the classic elegance of those early models, coupled with their historical import. The high-end Genèves were produced until 1967, after which the line was repositioned downward.

That demarcation, ending the run of the original, high-class Genève models, and beginning the production of entry and mid-level watches, is thought by many collectors to be both rather stark and definitive. But thanks to insights provided by one of the most knowledgable Omega collectors, our own Bill Sohne, I learned that there is one, glorious exception. That exception, manufactured in very small numbers by Omega standards, is the reference number 137001, caliber 602 manual-wind Genève chronometer.

Roughly 4000 of these chronometers were reportedly produced in and around 1969/70. They were marketed as a high-end dress watch, and as such, were only 33mm in diameter, and offered only in elegant 18k gold, waterproof, monocoque cases.

There were slightly different dial variations offered, and the one shown below is my personal favorite. It features applied gold markers with onyx inlays at 3, 6, 9, and 12, an applied gold Omega symbol, and a very well-executed printed second, minute, and hour track, including finely applied tritium nestled inside of black frames above each hour marker. The baton hands include both onyx inserts, and tritium at the ends. It is worth noting that, at least on my example, the hands have survived their 40 years without any signs of degradation. I mention that because in my experience, many (if not most) watches made in the 1950s through the early/mid ‘60s, including some made by the very highest level manufacturers (e.g. Audemars Piguet), used either a lighter allow for their gold hands, or a plating of some sort. As a result, it is quite common to find that the hands on such watches have oxidized, or aged less gracefully than their surrounding case and markers.

The caliber 602 movement was the last manual-wind chronometer movement made by Omega up until the contemporary Railmaster. It is quite similar to the much more common caliber 601 movement, which is a good segue to a rather interesting little mystery. The cal. 601 movements are often marked “adjusted to two positions”, though they were used mostly in lower and mid-range models, and were not (to my knowledge) ever chronometer certified. Ironically, however, the cal. 602 movements, which were all certified chronometers, were not marked as having been adjusted!

Whatever the reason for that odd difference, I am quite happy to present my one and only, and distinctly anomalous, later production Genève. And many thanks to Bill, as always, for his valuable advice.



This message has been edited by Dr No on 2025-10-15 18:12:59

Hi Tony,

this is an interesting post - I have learned something new this way.

The dial is a sight to behold - very beautiful and wonderfully preserved.

This chronometer might be one on my future watchlist...  

kind regards

erich

despite most of us being keen vintage collectors we always have something to learn and i've learnt all about the 602 calibre. yours is in exceptional condition, good enough for me to doubt the originality of the dial, but i'm no expert so......??

interesting point you raised about the 601 adjusted question. i would think that 'possibly' because the 602's were all chronometer certified and had dials which state that, there was no need to mark the dials whereas the 601 and other 6xx's were marked 'adjusted to 2 positions' to show that they were of a higher quality than a standard non adjusted movements being made at the time. just a thought.

as an interesting aside, i have owned several and still own 2 321 calibre speedmasters. they are unadjusted, but the 321 from the same year in my seamaster chrono is marked 'adjusted to 2 positions'. that would indicate that technically the seamaster is a higher end piece than the speedmaster although we know that even during tragic meltdown on Apollo I Ed Whites speedy carried on running which makes them literally bomb proof.

the anomalies of vintage Omegas

very nice piece Tony. not jealous at all...really, i'm not...honestly.

Graham

 

and for sharing a pic. a gorgeous dial indeed!

J

Thanks a lot Tony, this is an informative post and the photos are beautiful.  The accuracy in placing the little paddles of lume inside the black boxes on the dial is admirable.

Followup question for you or Graham on cals 601 and 602:  were different parts with higher quality finishing used in 602, or are the parts interchangeable? 

Tom

 

..book (Marco Richon)  gives the following information:

 

600    27.90SC PC AM 17P    1960  (manuel version of 550)   Seamaster   409.000 pieces

601   27.90SC T1 PC AM 17P   1960           Seamaster -De Ville -Genève    831.000 pieces

602    27.90SC T1 PC AM bull 17P  1964      Constellation    (rare) 

 

This could mean that the 602 is essentially a 601 which underwent additional regulation at the factory in order to receive a bulletin.

Ben.

My understanding through Bill is that the book that Ben referenced is incorrect. That is to say that the 602 movements were used exclusively in this model Genève, and not in the Constellation. If anyone has evidence of a 602 Constellation, please do share it with the forum.

With regards to the 601 and 602 calibers, while they are fundamentally the same, there are a few distinctions. Bill can elaborate when he has a chance, as I did not retain the details when we had this discussion.

Regards,

Tony C.

Although Richon's more recent publication "Journey through Time" demonstrates identical text in the caliber specifications, the modelname Constellation has been changed here into Genève.

Sorry for initially looking up in the older book...

Page 479 shows several Genève models - among them a cal.602 gold model with the caption:  "The first and only chronometer version of the Genève series".

regards,  Ben.

Hi Ben

Wen i was researching the 602 geneve... I noticed the error in Omega Saga...   i wrote to John Dethiem and mention that it was in error.  I also asked john if he ever saw a manual wind Connie to drive the point home and he forwarded the info to Marco!  hehehe a good laugh.

Best

Bill

Very recognizable Bill,

in those days the Museum-staff were remarkably greatful with questions and remarks from a critical audience because they were convinced this was a great help in researching, understanding and clarifying their own history and products. Getting the facts right is essential for a museum, every piece of information helps.

cheers,  Ben.

Thanks Graham.  My usual first spot to check for caliber details, omega-fanatic, doesn't have a sheet on the 602.  I did run across an old post of Bill Sohne's though, that gives more details on it, including the production number of about 4000.  I'll let him weigh in with the rest of his information.

There was an interesting response to Bill's post, though, that mentioned that the 601/602 had an interchangeable wheel train (including escapement and balance) and setting mechanism with the automatic chronometer 550 series.  Winding mechanism was obviously different.

Tom

Hi tom

Tony called me asking the same thing...   The big deal with the 602 it was actually officially certified chronometer.  The dead giveaway is the "bull" in the movement nomenclature for the 602.  bull=  bulletin , chronometer certificate.

and  now back to the parts....

the parts list from the Omega parts book.



and page 2



The base caliber is 600 and some parts are from the 601.

The only unique part to the 602 is the barrel bridge.  Why that bridge? , that is where Omega marks the caliber number!

So this is the case where the sum of the parts is greater as a whole and certified chronometer !

Good Hunting

Bill Sohne

and very difficult to locate.  Wear it in good health.  Here is a link to a post I made here in the purists about this nice uncommon cal. 602 geneve I obtained about 2 years ago.

omega.watchprosite.com

thanks for the link, Mike. I doubt that there are many out there with the added goodies that came with yours!

Do you wear it often?

Regards,

Tony

for your kind comments.

It is precisely the type of nuances discussed on this thread which make vintage collecting of endless interest.

Regards,

Tony C.

... after reading your post, i am now even proud of being one of the owners for this Cal.602.

in any case, the dial of your watch is exceptionally outstanding.

stefan

Hi,

I just bought a Geneve cal. 602.

Reading your posts and also accross the internet I have some doubts that the case it's original. It seems that the reference 135.012 SP fits the Geneve line but the cal. 601.

Any help will be highly appreciated. Thanks.

Hi,

Why do you buy this watch when you are in doubt?

I am sorry to say it is a "Frankenwatch", a marriage.

It is a correct chronometer movement for the rare Geneve chronometer in a non correct case!

The case is from the ordinary (non chronometer) Geneve line and should house a Cal. 601

I had it on my watch list as I was curios who would jump on it...

 Sorry for the bad news!

kind regards

Erich

thanks also for the history info.

Cheers

 

Thanks Tony.

Very informative thread and very nice Geneve.

In the mean time, I am still waiting for this one, a friend of mine "promised" to let it go.

 

  Caliber 602.

 

 

Best.

 

. . . these Genèves are just exquisite!

Enchanted,

Art

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