TimeOut

Here is the first of two new additions to the shoe family – Stefano Bemer for Valextra oxfords in BLUE!!! BluNotte, this is for you, my friend

Before we get to the shoes, perhaps we need to do an introduction to Valextra. It does have a rather pharmaceutical rhyme to it - "take two Valextras and call me in the morning" or "Valextra is twice as potent as Viagra. Clinical test have shown that..."

Valextra is a Milanese leather goods company established in 1937. They specialise in leather bags for men and women as well as an extensive range of leather accessories. It also has a range of shoes which manufacturing and design has been outsourced to my favourite Italian shoe maker, Stefano Bemer. Who could resist? Certainly not I.



Now for the 360 degree spin…













It is so close to being a seamless back. A real pity. However, making it a seamless back requires quite a bit of additional work, not just in the construction but also in the clicking (cutting) of the quarters (the back piece of leather that forms the heel).







The soles are not as nicely finished as Stefano Bemer’s own range. In particular, the sole is not as bevelled at the waist.



Let’s check out the details…



The in-folded seam where the vamp meets the quarters is its most interesting feature.



It gives the shoe a very clean and sleek look.





The same seam work is used for the cap toe.



The midnight tone of blue makes it a potentially versatile shoe to match as its almost black. Given its pedigree, the shoes are made to the Stefano Bemer S-last. The finishing is good but certainly not to what I have come to expect from Stefano. Furthermore, these are sold without shoe trees, which is a real pity.

I mentioned earlier that this was one of two pairs of new shoes. Here is a sneak preview of the other pair...



Cheers
Gaz

Thanks for remembering me and my taste! Very much appreciated!

Well, i also received just today my pair which I ordered especially to welcome my RL PLM which should be coming in just a few weeks time, check out the post just above!

Congrats once again on your new shoes and wear them always in the best of health!

Cheers

Stephen

Congrats on your latest acquisition.

By the way, have you managed to wear all your shoes? Just wondering.... coz I haven't.

Regards,

iAn

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I'm sure Stephen in particular will love these since they are made in his favorite color.  I really appreciate you pointing out some of the technical aspects of the shoe's construction.  This has been a very educational post for me.

Thanks, and enjoy your new shoes!

Cheers,
Daos

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i've always had fairly wide feet, but have been a UK size 9 euro 43 for about 30 years. i've actually had a pair of handmade black brogues for well over 20 years which have served me very well, however, i've recently noticed that my shoes are getting tight and i cant do the laces up as i could. this mean i am forced to buy even wider fitting shoes. does anyone know if your feet swell as you get older or is it due to my lack of mobility, medication, weight gain(i'm now 3st heavier than i was when i was working 8 years ago although i'm 1st less than i used to be). most of my shoes are still ok, but they are casual shoes and hiking boots. my vintage cowboy boots still fit, but my brogues and a pair of nubuck deck shoes now cause pain after a short while.

am i just succumbing to the ravages of time or am i a fat git?

i certainly need to invest in a good pair of black and brown smart shoes, but will probably wait until i need them.

best

Graham

Hi Graham,

I am not a medical practitioner but my understanding is that aging fee get longer, wider, flatter and thinner.

Over time, your feet become wider and longer and the natural padding under your heel and forefoot thins. Years of use also flatten your arches and stiffen your feet and ankles.   Excuse my frankness but it seems like the shoes that have served you well for the past 20 years needs updating.  As you have already had experience with a bespoke shoe maker, you will appreciate the process they go through.  However,  it may be in the interest of discussion for me to share the following information about shoe fit.  Apologies if you already know this.

To get a sense of the best fit for your feet, here are a few tips:

1. Try the fit of shoes later in the day.  Avoid fitting shoes in the morning since your feet swells during the course of the day. 
2. Fit to your largest foot.  Most people have a larger right foot, so fit it to this size.  In the event that you have a substantially smaller alternate foot, have both measured. 
3. Wiggle your toes.  When standing, you should have enough room in the toe box to wiggle your toes.
4. Ignore shoe sizes! Just because you are a 43 in one pair doesn't mean that you will be necessarily a 43 in another.  Shoe designs can impact this substantially.  Derbys with seperate quarters and vamps are more flexible than whole cuts or oxfords which have a more "restrictive" throat. 
Wear the right socks. Socks vary in thickness, which impacts fit.  Avoid wearing sports socks when fitting leather shoes.  Also, your sports shoes fit does not always correspond to your leather shoe fit (see 4). Get close to fit as possible. Don't buy shoes that feel too tight and expect them to stretch to fit.  Go for half sizes or expanded widths. Most good shoe stores should have a broad range of fits in half sizes and widths. Heel should be snug. Your heel should fit comfortably in the shoe with a minimum amount of slipping. The shoes should not ride up and down on your heel when you walk.  I have seen a John Lobb bespoke fitting where a pair of leather shoes are made specifically for the fitting and holes are cut in the heel is then cut up at the heel so the shoemaker can see how well the heel sits.  A brand new pair with the leather of your choice is then only made.
5. Don't rush or compromise.  Walk in the shoes to make sure they fit and feel right. Wear both shoes if required and test them in the range of your size and width. Take your time and enjoy the experience.  A good shoe store will understand that.  Ignore those who don't.

Gaz

I'm already looking forward to shopping for my next pair of shoes!

Andrew

Gaz,

This is a very nice pair of classic shoes.  Very fine work.

 

Regards

Ling

 

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