Comments:
Did IWC draw the short straw?
Gerald Genta was undoubtedly one of the most visionary watch designers of the 20th Century. His collaborations with European watch brands resulted in many of the most iconic and groundbreaking watch designs. Collaborations resulted in the design of AP's Royal Oak, Cartier's Pasha, PP's Nautilus, and Omega's Constellation to name a few. All of these watch lines went on to become icons that continue to be collector favorites decades later.
For IWC, this is the year of the Ingenieur, yet another line inspired by the original collaborative designs with Gerald Genta. I am sure that these watches will be warmly received, but is this more due to the IWC brand, and the Genta name, or is the Ingenieur truly a groundbreaking and timeless design that will enjoy the success of other Genta designs for decades to come. Sure many of you will defend the design, but for me at least, it fails to stirs any emotions, and remains a very cold design that could have appeared on the roster of let's say a Japanese manufacturer. I will always be an avid follower and fan of the IWC brand, and the Portuguese, Portofino and Pilot ranges evoke the timeless and elegant quality of their watches. But for me, Ingenieur, and the Da Vinci lines leave me stone cold.
I anticipate a strong reaction to this thread, more due to the fact that these forums in general, draw positive critiques more than negative, but I would like to seek your honest opinions.
Dean
about the Ingenieur...
I would have preferred IWC to retain the original design, and not change it to what it is now..
The original Genta design. Much better...
5 screws
For me, 8 screws works well on the Royal Oaks, 6 screws on the Hublots, but somehow I can't accept 5 screws .... it could be something to do with my mild OCD.
Some parts work and some don't
but you're right, the Ingenieur is probably one of those that won't fall into everyone's good books when it comes to IWC. I will probably be able to get 5 screws, but 5 drilled holes, I don't really get it, though it isn't a deal breaker for me. The other "problem" would be the non-standard lug design. At times I find myself wondering if there will come a time where I would have no option but to custom build straps for it. I do like the newer iterations, but when the size went beyond the 44mm mark, that took it off my list completely. Would have preferred them to stay true to a wearable size. I do have a 3234-01 and I love it. It's almost one of my daily beaters, and the the overall design and size, including the nicely done patterns on the dial and the layering of the minute chapters add a lot of depth to it. Not a big fan of the other iterations, though the new Ingenieur Automatic at 40mm is something I plan to check out.
Interesting question though. Not something I have thought of prior to this.
Richard
You hit the nail ...
I never considered an Ingenieur because of the non-standard bracelet attachment.
Since I only wear watches on leather, this attachment is a no go for me, despite the fact that I love all Gerald Genta designs.
Cheers,
Nilo
Since I only wear watches on leather, this attachment is a no go for me, despite the fact that I love all Gerald Genta designs.
Cheers,
Nilo
The Ingenieur didn't begin with Genta...
...and the 5-hole screwed bezel was not originally its most obvious characteristic.
1955
Instead it was conventional looking watch with excellent shock and water resistance and phenomenal magnetic resistance.
It continued that way through the 1960's and early '70s with relatively few changes:
1969
When Genta produced the Jumbo it had his own quirky design but still kept the Ingenieur's essential qualities. It was a flop: maybe the time, maybe the design and it is a relatively recent rewrite of history which makes Genta's quirks the essence of the watch.
1977
I actually prefer the skinny Ingenieurs of the late 1980's and '90s. In some of them there was evidence of truly serious technology:
1993
...but even the standard models stuck with the original Ingenieur qualities:
1994
My interest dropped off with the Ref 3227.
Although I don't hate it I find it a bit big and clunky to wear. Further, I didn't like the fact that the new movement was so large, IWC were nailing their colours to the large watch fad (my view, YMMV).
2005
Anything more recent than the 3227 is either too big or doesn't have the Ingenieur essential qualities, though I admit some look nice.
I probably obsess too much about the large watch thing but I would be glad to see the reappearance of a 38mm +/- watch with the traditional Ingenieur qualities and a relatively conventional shape. However, the other problem is that IWC prices are getting more and more out of my range, so even if one appeared I don't know if it would be for me.
I've declared victory in my original aim of collecting one of every Ref of Ingenieur by redefining those which don't correspond to the original essence, and those which I don't approve of as not 'real' Ingenieurs. This has saved me a lot of money in the last few years.
Totally agree. I love all the Ingenieurs BEFORE Genta revisited them.
And especially the Triple 6... Go figure why.
Its pure design is unsurpassed, incomparable, and , at this time, it offered something new ( well, not totally new as some Military from 1948 like the JLC Mark 11 offered that feature but for military purposes, while the 666 was the first Civilian if I remember it well, to offer such a virtue ).
The rest is well, for others' cup of tea, not mine.
And I don't even speak of the current offer, from an aesthetical point of view, at least.
Best,
Nicolas
Perhaps you meant "revised"?
Until recently I owned an Ingenieur from the late 70's or early 80's (just a guess) with the Genta design. It was bought new by me and, if you can imagine it - way back then.
This message has been edited by amerix on 2013-03-28 10:52:46 This message has been edited by amerix on 2013-03-28 10:56:35 This message has been edited by amerix on 2013-03-28 11:01:10
I liked the way the bracelet with its smooth links became an extension of the entire watch, that they were both conceived together.
The dial-face, which I have never seen since, was taken from graph paper such as used for mechanical drawing, making it even more of an engineer's watch.
Because It was doing nothing in my desk drawer and because a non-authorized watchmaker had done me a dubious service, I just gave it away - to a friend named Vianney.
Another "tale from the crypt" from a Perpetual Survivor - better Personal Surveyor - and for the all the known, unknown and usual reasions.
Amery
Ain't nothin' like the real thing, baby...
as Marvin Gaye & Tammi Terrell once sang so beautifully. I'm with Steve on the issue of the essence of the iconic IWC Ingeneiurs.
Totally agree
Thanks Steve W and Tony C for the great pictures of the Ingenieurs past. Elegant design. I think what IWC are trying to do is create a line of sportier watches to duplicate the runaway success of for example the AP Royal Oak Offshores. I don't think last year's offering of Big Pilot Top Gun models are flying off the shelf like they hoped although the Perpetual Calendar is a stunning watch (I prefer the previous year's rose gold versions though). Still, there is no denying GG was a visionary.
The vintage versions...
...are as compelling as any watch from any maker (including the Japanese, who make very fine watches IMO). Reference 666 is one of the most desirable wristwatches in history IMO - clean dial, pleasing proportions, excellent legibility. If IWC has lost its way with the model today, it is not because they didn't have great pieces to draw upon in their back catalog. Unfortunately, their watches have become too large for no good purpose in many cases.
Cheers,
Daos
IWC certainly have some fantastic history ...
... but are designing for a modern and quite different clientele. The original Ingenieur was a masterful piece of sober engineering and the modern pieces don't really appeal to me either. I wonder how far IWC can push these design aesthetics. Alays interesting to watch these companies evolve.
Andrew