Cartier

As promised, here are my own feelings about the different Cartier Tank MC.

Actually, I had the chance to shoot them today. But I will be frank with you: they were very difficult to shoot. Why? Simply because the shapes and curves of the cases combined with the polished parts create a kind of mirror effect whatever the position you choose to shoot the watches. Anyway, I tried to do my best and the most important is to be able to deliver you fresh pictures, right from the oven.

I contacted Cartier because these Tank MC were not presented at the SIHH. It doesn't mean that they are not important watches in the collection. It is totally the opposite. The decision to release them in June is the proof that Cartier wished to dedicate them all the emphasis they deserve. They symbolize a key addition to the Tank collection. As you know, before this introduction, the Tank collection was made of 5 lines:

- The Tank Anglaise we can recognize easily with its integrated crown
- The Tank Louis Cartier, the thin and the most elegant line
- The Tank Americaine with its very rectangular case
- The Tank Française which features a bracelet
- And the Tank Solo, the sober line.

So we can add a new line which can be characterized by:

- its case shape of 44mm x 34,3mm which is closer to a square than any other Tank (the Skeleton Watch case is even very similar to a square with a 43,9mm x 39,10mm dimension)
- the use of Manufacture Cartier movements including the superb skeleton movement, the 9611 MC.

Even if there are several versions of the Tank MC, we can divide into 3 parts the line:

- the SS versions
- the PG versions
- the Skeleton watch in palladium

The first two versions are powered by the first movement produced by Manufacture Cartier, the 1904 MC. It is a famous movement because it operates the Calibre and in a sense, the watch name was given to celebrate this first caliber.

It is an automatic movement with a power reserve of 48 hours. This power reserve may appear to be short despite the use of two barrels but their goal is to achieve the best torque and a constant behaviour for an optimized accuracy. The movement is more impressive in terms of technical finishings than of decorative ones. I think it should need some more refined details to improve the perceived quality. It is a bit a pity because Cartier is totally focused on a high quality approach whose goal is to reduce dramatically the failure rate. And if Cartier is currently one of the top Manufactures in this perspective, it is due to a very clever and advanced conception of the movements. The 1904 MC is totally in coherence with this strategy.

I'm happy to see the 1904 MC in another context than the Calibre and I must confess that Cartier managed to integrate it in a rectangular watch which is not so obvious.

The SS and PG versions have a 9,5mm thickness which creates a good overall balance: the watch is not too thin or too thick due to its case size and shape.

The dial features the classic Cartier figures and railroad along with a guillochage. At the beginning, I was not very seduced by the presence of the date window even if for commercial reasons, I understood the choice to insert one. After having spent one hour with these watches, it was less problematic. I found it well integrated and Cartier took the right decision to use the same date disk color than the dial. So this date is almost fading...

When I turned over the watches, I discovered the movement 1904 MC in its new context. And finally, I was quite convinced by the way it is displayed. Cartier designed a square "frame" to host it and so the see-through caseback is squared. The visual effect is nice and from this issue (the use of a round movement in a rectangular case), Cartier found a very satisfying solution. When I observe the caseback, I have the feeling that the watch is a perfect square. A well-done visual effect.

Obviously, the same topic remains: I would have been happy to see a more refined decoration of the movement, at least for the PG version. The difference between the price tags should have justified a more exclusive decoration with the PG version.


Here are the pictures of the PG version, with the black flinqué dial:

Don't you have the feeling that the second hand subdial is very "Calibre"?

The 1904 MC in its new context:

As I wrote before, the outcome is very convincing due to the different constraints. The see-through caseback is justified here.

The shape of the case-side.

The Tank MC case is more complex than we may think. It alternates brushed and polished parts, curved and straight lines. It is a big asset for this watch. The octogonal crown is set with a sapphire while the SS version crown is set with a spinel.

The watch is very comfortable on the wrist. The Cartier folding clasp system, even if it is painful for me to handle it (I'm not very gifted with this Cartier system!), allows very precise settings. So small or large wrists would welcome the watch without any big problem. Of course, the size is quite large, we are talking here about a 44mmx34,3mm case but the designers did a great job. The curved case-sides define a refined atmosphere and their thickness reduce the feeling of size. The dial opening is clearly rectangular and I like this mix of shapes, of proportions.

As you can see, the date window is not shocking:

PG is a perfect material for this kind of watch. But I think that thanks to its entry level price and at the end, the very slight difference of quality (if we forget the crown), the SS version could be the best option.


Both watches together:

The silvered flinqué dial uses blued hands. The guillochage becomes more visible while it is more subtle with the black dial:

Again, the date window is well integrated on the dial:

The same 1904 MC movement:

A closer look on the dial:

A similar feeling on the wrist, the watch is comfortable and has a good presence without being too big.

Let's change the category now. Let's enter another dimension.

The Tank MC Skeleton Watch in Palladium is a superb timepiece. It gathers all what I expect from the Cartier Manufacture:

- an original movement lay-out
- some Cartier details which evoke the DNA of the brand
- a daring style which is at the same time refined

If you loved the Santos Skeleton but you found it too big (which was my case...), this Tank MC Skeleton is for you!

If you remember well, the Santos Skeleton in Palladium has a 46,5mm x 54,9mm case which is huge in my point of view. The non-round cases increase the feeling of size.

The Tank MC Skeleton has a 43,9mm w 39,1mm case and you clearly feel the difference.

With this Tank MC, you have the ability to enjoy the beautiful lay-out of the squared 9611 MC movement in a more subtle and refined atmosphere.

I was totally under the charm of this watch which has something aerial.

I like the contrast between the straight lines which create the big figures and the wheels and parts beneath them.

The balance incabloc is visible, maybe I would have preferred to hide it.
 

The movement is really spectacular on the bridges side. It is beautiful not only due to its flawless finishings but also due to its architecture.

A feast for the eyes:

The movement has a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of 3 days. Winding it is a nice experience since you are able to see what's going on when you wind it.

I was a bit afraid of the "hair effect" which occurs with Skeleton watch. Surprisingly enough, the wrist hair is not that visible. Good point!

What a pleasure to wear this superb watch. I have all what Cartier wants to achieve on the wrist...

When originality meets elegance...

I was difficult for me to give it back to the Cartier team!

Obviously, we are not in the same price range than the other two watches. But these 3 timepieces manage to build all together a coherent and seducing new Tank line.

SS/PG versions:

Pros:

+ a refined case with nice details
+ size is balanced and I appreciate this step towards smaller case
+ a good integration of the 1904 MC movement
+ date window is discreet
+ the fine setting of the folding clasp

- decorative finishings of the movement are too shy
- the difference of price tags between the versions would have justified superior movement finishings for the PG version: I don't understand the difference of price. A positive point for the SS version at the end.
- the folding clasp system when you are not used with it and I think it twits too much the leather strap


Skeleton in Palladium version:

Pros:

+ a superb movement in terms of architecture or of finishings
+ the pleasure to enjoy it in a smaller case than the Santos Skeleton
+ a subtle mix of originality and of elegance
+ the feeling to face Cartier at its best

- the visible incabloc dial side
- the folding clasp for the same reasons than before

Thanks a lot to the Cartier France team for the time they spent with me today.

Fx

Thank You very much. I really am very impressed with this MC line. I really like the photos you took, it looks like a more realistic view than the ones I have seen so far. Perhaps even a softer, more rounded look to the models than in the commercial photos.

I certainly agree about the "small" seconds looking very Calibre-like. I did own a Calibre for a short time. Overall, I was pleased with it, but I must say this MC appeals to me more. Maybe I am being picky, but one of the main reasons I did not like the Calibre was the fact that the hands and some markers were lumed. I had the silver dial, and I felt that the stark white used for the lume on the hands and markers just did not fit with the aesthetics of what is otherwise a very vintage dial. I am relieved to see that there appears to be no lume used on the MC models.

Looks like it fits your wrist beautifully! While larger than the traditional Tank, it certainly does not look inappropriate. I prefer it over the larger Tank Anglaise models.

The Skeleton model is gorgeous. I think Cartier does all the skeleton models particularly well, and this one is certainly no exception!

Cheers,

Carl

It is the main purpose of my reports: to bring you really "live" pics and candid comments!

Thanks Carl for your message!

Fx

It looks like the size and shape are perfect. Do you know if the MC Skeleton will also be offered in PG? This for me is probably the first see through watch that is wearable, as, as you mention, the spaces are small enough to give the impression that it is not see through. Elegant watches and looking forward to seeing them when they hit the boutiques later this year.

The same movement, the 9611 MC, was released in PG even if it was not seen very often. So the base exists. Question is about the will to do it!

Thanks a lot for your words Dean!

Fx

Frx,

 

Thanks for the personal review in-person.

Cartier just had their Global Staff Meeting in Paris and so I await the return of my local representatives bringing home the goodies to try. 

 

Some of you may already know of my dachshund's ranking of the regular Cartier Tank production shapes:

 

1) Tank LC is unchallenged at the pinnacle and a Piaget ultra-thin movement inside is OK, obviously.

 

2) Tank Americaine has grown on us since it really looks like a military tank or medical stretcher. Click URL for previous discussion: cartier.watchprosite.com

It is a vertical rectangle that allows space for complications but still 'narrow' on-the-wrist.

 

3) Tank Solo: the almost forgotten one for simple elegance. No fancy (expensive) complications. Nobody has ever tried to sell us one.

 

4) Tank Française is "cute" and square;. Is it really a 'tank' shape if it is square? 

 

99) Tank Angalise had a BAD birth (2012) as the integrated bracelet and crown did not resonate with the public. Resuscitation or (in French) 'Reanimation' may be possible with the introduction of the leather strap version for 2013.

 

We need to 'touchy-feely' the new Tank MC to make a definitive decision but so far, it looks a candidate for the #2 rank on the league table, which is good for Cartier and enthusiasts.

 

Regards,

MTF

 

 

And I agree with it!

It is the reason why that I think that this line is a very valuable addition to the Tank collection.

I can't wait to have your personal  comments about the Tank MC!

Fx

really cool to seeing the pictures.

As always, it was a pleasure to bring them.

Fx

Excellent writeup. Agree completely on the comments on the movement finishing. The 1904 MC is a solid movement but the finishing underestimates what it is. 

I wore the Calibre and I appreciate the performances of the 1904MC movement. A very clever conception.

Fx

The Tank MC looks really good on your wrists! Can't wait to see it in person though, especially the skeleton version. Looks really modern, but yet it still has that classic "Cartier DNA" in it

I agree with your comments!

Fx

I am pretty sure I am not the only one! The direction Cartier has gone in recent years is quite disappointing. Gone are the days of elegantly designed tanks of modest size. The watch's design is troubling in many respects: it's sub seconds dial is far too large for the watch, the date is completely unnecessary, and the case is enormous size! Sure the higher quality movements are nice but Id much rather see them in some of the classic tank designs, as they did in the Privee collection. Cartier's skill in creating some of the most aesthetically pleasing designs is what made them a household name and their watches highly covetable, not their watchmaking finesse. Cartier has betrayed their roots of being a designer first; this tank being the prime example of this betrayal.

I already have one on order. I am a big fan of Cartier and am wearing a CPCP Rotonde as I right this and have several Tank Americans. This new MC is a home run in my opinion. A true classic with Cartier DNA.

 

mbeech1,

Everyone is entitled to a personal opinion when it is about style and design. Thank you for yours.

I cannot refute those comments that were made politely but I can fill in some facts and background to put them in context. It is difficult to maintain no changes for a marque with more than 100 years history in wristwatch making.   Change is Life.

 

Your post distilled down to some keypoints:

1) Disappointment in the (lack of) elegance of design and the Tank MC size is too large.

 

Size
Indeed the Tank MC watch is larger than the old Tank models like the LC, Francaise or Solo, but it has been designed to be an addition to the catalogue and not a replacement for the smaller watches. The design brief was to design a new watch as a "masculine expression of elegance".

That is the trend that is completely in keeping with the most important people at Cartier  --  the customers.

 

 

 
Santos-Dumont

 

The Santos-Dumont (square) range of watches with similar large movements are flying out of the shops and the Tank MC is a response to customers asking for a masculine Tank.  The Tank MC is not as long as the huge Tank Americaine; that shape is usually used for the watches with grand complications. Tank MC is designed around the base calibre 1904MC but also has to accommodate the large square calibre 9611MC.

 

 

 

 
Tank MC with 9611MC movement

 

Design
The new Tank MC exhibits some elegant design motifs and perhaps even more so than our favourite vintage Tank LC, which after all is like a simple military field stretcher or armoured vehicle.  The combination of brushed and polished surfaces adjacent to each other and the juxtaposition of the straight and curved lines were carefully designed for form and function; fitting a range of wrists.

See previous article about military stretchers and armoured vehicles: CLICK the URL below:

cartier.watchprosite.com

 

2) Seconds sub-dial too large.

This may be a personal choice but specifically in the masculine design brief, there are some relationship rules of mathematical proportion being applied;

 - balancing the Cartier logo and using the proportions of a recessed circle within a short rectangular dial

 - but still allowing the seconds to be visualised despite the orbiting hours and minutes hands.

 

 

 
Tank MC

3) Date completely unnecessary.

Some may prefer the absence of a date window but Cartier has a history of offering date displays since the 1970s. It is not a betrayal of their watchmaking heritage to continue to do so. I recall the Santos (1978), Panthere (1983), Pasha (1985) and Tank Americaine gents (1989), Tank Americaine ladies (1996), Tank Francaise for the 3rd millennium (1995) all had date display.

In the field, customers asking for date display (in a masculine watch for daily use) far outnumber those preferring none.

There may be a reversed preference if applied to a dress watch like the Tank LC, under french cuffs or a tuxedo, for only the duration of a gala dinner.  Most of my dinners only straddle two adjacent dates at most....  

 

The smaller Tank models are still available if the masculine Tank MC is not to taste.

 

Regards,
MTF

 

 

 

This message has been edited by MTF on 2013-07-15 08:26:22

I wonder if anyone could tell me the lug width. I am very interested in this watch.

for the quick response. I am going in to try one on this weekend, so I can make up my mind.

Melvyn already brought you a comprehensive answer.

I will reply to you with a shorter one.

I really think that these TANK MC are a good trend. I found them more balanced and more seducing than some Tank I have seen during the past years.

So you don't like the date display? The Skeleton watch is for you!



Fx

I had the opportunity to see and try on the watch at Cartier in New York last week.  I liked the watch even more than I anticipated.  It fit my wrist perfectly and I love the classic tank look.  I had always liked the Tank Francaise however felt it was too small for my wrist.  This watch might work for me in the future.  Sorry I didn't snap any live pics on my wrist.

Indeed a lovely timepiece that  after along time has a connect to Cartier's historic DNA and with the size being reasonable compared to the recent large offerings,an added attraction. But the concept of putting a deposit (though refundable) just to see the watch and get a real sense of what it is like (London boutique) throws the water out of the bath in terms of the buying experience itself for a collector and then there is the absurd price levels,arrived at after multiple increases in the last 24 months.

Hi,

The picture posted are a treat to our eyes I must say !.

Recently spotted the Cartier advertisement in local TV. It briefly showed the watch and starred the HK star Andy Lau. Most of the advertisement was on the star rather than the watch. Only a brief mention of Cartier Tank MC.

Through your post, I have been able to see this watch up close. I like the skeletonised version. Mechanical movements are meant to be seen and appreciated.

As you mentioned, prices for the skeletonised version will be north of the base model ?

Thank you for the pictures and the reviews.

Cheers.