In this case it was a friend asking. He handed the watch to me and went on his way. At least he didn't ask how much it was worth. Now I'm no Bill or Jocke so I can't glance at one of these babies and instantly decipher it. The reference number is 16610 an
I know they made the early 16610 models with tritium markers that can patina. But what about the dial on those early 16610’s: does it ever go matte like the 16800 and earlier models? I know the 16800 had both matte and glossy dials, and some of the glossy
The 16800, 168000 and 16610 all using the same bracelet. Either 93150 with 501B end ling or with SEL end link and it is numbered 93250. The same 93150 bracelet can also fit the no date Plexi 5513 sub and all we change is the end links to be 580. Now the E
I love how lightweight my 6265 bracelet is. The modern Rolex bracelets I have (116610 super case bracelet, 16520 Daytona) are just so heavy. Will the 16610 bracelet feel like the 6265? Or do I have to go with a 16800 or earlier? Or maybe earlier 16610 mod
I wasn't 100% sure at the time if I was making a mistake buying this over the regular black bezel 16610, but I'm so glad I went with it (They were the same price at the time). Like mentioned above, I've swam in the ocean with it, used and abused it, and s
I want to wear my 16610 sub on an oysteflex band from Rolex. The yachmaster 42 unfortunately has 21mm spacing between the lugs so I can’t use that strap. Is there a 20mm version? There are plenty of Daytona oyster flex bands at 20mm but they have the end
I have a soft spot for the Tudor BB Harrods. I prefer the shape and the font of the bezel. I like the 16610 LV, no doubt, but my heart goes for the Tudor. I find it has a bit more character, even it if feels a tad less qualitative than the Rolex. The prop