When Rolex presented a complete collection of new models on 1 September, the size of which differs little from that of a "normal year", it immediately answered a question: no, 2020 is not a transition year and this late presentation did not lead the brand to reduce its volume of new models. Submariner, Datejust, Oyter Perpetual, Sky-Dweller, these collections are either renewed or completed, which finally testifies to an active year. It is the symbol of the Rolex way of doing things. Whatever the circumstances, the brand delivers what it set out to do. It is powerful and above all creates events rather than being subjected to them. The only real question I have at this level is to imagine their plans for April 2021, because after all, Rolex is supposed to present new products at that time as well, and we are only half year away from that date. On the other hand, September 2020 seemed like an ideal shooting window. The expectation was at its height since Rolex had not unveiled anything since Basel 2019. Moreover, this date was fixed on all agendas thanks to a few skilfully distilled teasings. And despite the Geneva Watch Days, the media context was relatively calm. In any case, who would have overshadowed Rolex on this point? The new Rolex 2020 products, once discovered, took everything in their stride, concentrating the overwhelming majority of posts on social networks and blogs.


I propose to start this overview of the novelties with the Submariner... without any surprise.

Submariner

I don't like to write about new Rolex products right away. I like to take my time and above all capture reactions and compare them to my own. In fact, the release of this new Submariner, available in several versions, reminds us of a fundamental point: you have to see the watches, touch them, understand them, to really appreciate them. I recall this point because when Rolex pressed the launch button too many comments described the Submariner 2020 as being the same as the previous one but a millimetre bigger. In fact, the exact opposite is true. The difference in size is anecdotal (I will come back to this point) but above all, the changes are numerous. To sum up, Rolex followed the precept of "everything must change so that nothing changes". And what doesn't change is that the Submariner remains the benchmark diver's watch, the pinnacle of excellence in this niche.

The Submariner differs from its predecessor from an aesthetic point of view not because of an enlarged diameter but by a subtle modification of proportions. The difference in diameter is invisible. The famous millimetre difference is a rounding because the difference is rather half a millimetre. And this is the magic and intelligence of Rolex: rounding up to the next millimeter is much more chatty than if the size were presented as the same. The opening of the dial and the black dial also make the difference imperceptible.




Beyond these aesthetic considerations, the big change is the use of the new 3230/3235 movement family (without date, with date) introduced with the Datejust in 2016 and whose performance is superior to that of the 313x family of the previous generation. Winding efficiency has been improved where necessary, but it is above all in terms of energy management that the modifications are concentrated. The combination of the Chronergy escapement and the new energy transmission system makes it possible to obtain chronometric performances significantly superior to those of the COSC with an announced range of -2/+2 seconds, justifying the Rolex designation of Superlative Chronometer. In addition, the movement's behaviour is at the same time more constant over the power reserve range, which is a crucial point because the power reserve is much longer: 70 hours as opposed to 48 hours previously. It is the intelligent design of the movement and the optimisations that explain this difference in power reserve. In fact, the movements' own diameter remains the same and this increase in power reserve is not due to a larger barrel.



The use of 3230 and 3235 movements is in any case part of a logical approach by Rolex, which aims to increase the power reserve of its models while being even more demanding in terms of precision.


We can never say it enough but the Submariner achieves excellent waterproofing performance (300 metres) while remaining within reasonable proportions. The Submariner 2020 ultimately accentuates this characteristic thanks to its more elegant and slender visual appearance than the previous generation.


In any case, I consider the Submariner 2020 to be a great success. The subtle but relevant aesthetic changes and the use of newly designed movements make it even more accomplished than the previous version. Its status as the reference of the diver watches is thus renewed for many years to come.