Vacheron Constantin

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Hands on review of the Vacheron Constantin Chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955

The year 2015 was eventful for Vacheron Constantin with the presentation of the new collection Harmony which led to the introduction of several handwind or automatic in-house chronograph calibers. However, the new calibers 3200, 3300 and 3500 haven't caused the movement 1141 (based on the Lemania 2310) to be discarded. It is enhanced by the manufacture and belongs to the category of the most beautiful handwind chronograph movements of the high horology segment.




The Harmony collection however brought an additional surprise with the release of the movement 1142 used in the Harmony Chronograph Small Model. It has a fundamental difference from the 1141 from which it derives. Its frequency is indeed increased (3 Hz vs 2.5 Hz) and is distinguished at first glance from the 1141 by its engraved balance bridge and the smaller diameter of the balance wheel.

This latter feature is logical since the movement 1142 has a diameter (27,5mm) equal to the 1141 one and an almost similar thickness (5,57mm vs. 5.6mm). Vacheron Constantin had to limit the energy consumption in order to maintain the same level of power reserve (48 hours) despite the increase in frequency.




The movement 1142 was used for a second time in 2015 and presented at the latest edition of Watches & Wonders. It is the chronograph "Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955". I find that the idea to use the movement 1142 instead of the 1141 is great in the context of this watch. Indeed, the 1141 would have found its place perfectly. The chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is inspired by the reference 6087, a yellow gold watch with a diameter of 35mm, powered by the caliber 492 and recognizable thanks to its specific lugs and its  "mushroom" pushers. But Vacheron Constantin wanted to go further than the pure inspiration from a model of the past.

The chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 obviously fits into the long tradition of the collection Historiques but it also reflects the capacity of the Manufacture to innovate and to project itself into the future. In this context, the movement 1142 is an ideal choice and it creates a link between the past of Vacheron Constantin and the current developments of the manufacture.




The chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is for me one of the best high-end chronographs of the current market. It obviously takes advantage of the features of its inspiration to offer a style that is both classic and perhaps a bit paradoxically, original in the contemporary creative context. The lugs play their full role. While the watch uses a platinum case with a diameter of 38,5mm, the lugs give it a much larger presence on the wrist than its actual size may suggest. Their length and their shape bring a lot of energy and character and if this type of lugs was regularly used a few decades ago, it is surprising in today's context of watch production.




Anyway, the case could not be larger without altering the dial balance. The distance between the subdials axis of the movement 1142 (derived from the Lemania 2310) is relatively small and the use of a bigger case would have given the impression that the watch was unbalanced because of the two sub-dials being too close to the center. However, a sense of harmony prevails with this watch by observing closely its dial.

The peripheral tachymeter scale is a nice addition because it makes the graduation of the second hand of the chronograph closer to the subdials (minutes counter of the chronograph and the permanent second hand). Its blue touches brighten the dial and match the chronograph second hand. The silvered opaline dial is refined and perfectly consistent with the neutral case material.

However, at no time does the watch become boring, and the small blue accents make their effect. The hands of the chronograph function are clearly distinguishable and the overall blue-grey blend is charming. The main white gold hands and the applied indexes and numerals contribute to improve the perception of quality. Unquestionably, the dial is really successful.




Unlike the chronograph 6087, the chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is not anti-magnetic. The see-through caseback allows one to observe the movement 1142 and its differences compared to the 1141. As mentioned above, the balance wheel is smaller and the bridge of the balance is different even if it is not here engraved like with the chronograph Harmony Small Model.

I find with pleasure the Maltese cross of the screw on top of the column wheel and obviously the excellent overall finish, at the same time neat and refined. The movement which avoids any unnecessary decoration is thus consistent with the context of the watch and of its dial. The decagonal bezel surrounds the movement and reduces the perception of its limited diameter. The winding of the movement and the activation of the pushers lead to a nice experience, but it feels below a Lange chronograph, the reference in the field. However, its sensations evoke for me those of traditional movements - you can clearly notice the effort required to wind the mainspring and the energy needed to press the pushers.




The charm and seductive power of the chronograph "Historic Cow Horns 1955" act instantaneously once the watch is put on the wrist. The long lugs match the shape of the wrist thanks to their inclination and the perfect execution of the polishing gives them a bright appearance. The watch is worn with comfort thanks to its excellent position. The fineness of the bezel, which enlarges the dial opening and the aesthetic presence of the lugs increase the perceived size of the case. The latter has a diameter (38,5mm) / thickness (10,9mm) ratio in the middle range which suits me perfectly.

Neither too thin nor too thick, the chronograph Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955 is consistent even in its smallest details. At the end, it is this coherence which attracted me the most. Inspired by a historical piece but with the will to be different from it, this chronograph is a beautiful demonstration of the capabilities and skills of Vacheron Constantin in the segment of classic high horology.

Elegant, refined and certainly not boring, it offers a superb operating context for the movement 1142. All this makes me think that the chronograph movements based on the Lemania 2310, despite the development of in-house movements, still have a bright future ... for our deepest pleasure!

Pros:
+ A remarkable and consistent interpretation of a historical watch
+ The choice of the 1142 movement, more ambitious than the 1141
+ The finishes of the movement and of the other watch components
+ The comfort on the wrist
+ A classic watch which manages to offer style and character

Cons:
- The movement performance (power reserve, semi-instantaneous minutes counter and the handling feelings) are not at the same level compared to more recently designed movements but this is not a big problem when we consider the context of the watch. The charm is more important!

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