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Audemars Piguet's new “Établisseurs” collection
The practice of watchmaking, known as “établissage,” is a method that spread from the 18th century onwards in the Jura region, particularly in the Neuchâtel mountains.
It involves dividing the manufacturing work into small, specialised, and independent units, and then assembling all the components at the last minute to finalise the product.
Created at the instigation of Ilaria Resta as one of her first project, Audemars Piguet's “Atelier des Établisseurs” is, as its name suggests, rooted in the historic tradition of “établissage”.
It is a creative hub bringing together master artisans to design and create ultra-limited, one-of-a-kind timepieces with great artistic freedom.
So, here are the first 3 creations from this workshop, which demonstrates the determination of Audemars Piguet's new management to expand and stimulate the brand's creativity.
A/ ÉTABLISSEURS NOMADE Ref. 75200TI.OO.01
Designed by Ludovic Python, this timepiece is a modern interpretation of historical portable timepieces.
Its sculptural, multifunctional design transitions seamlessly between pocket‑watch use and table display.
At the push of two mysterious buttons, the watch slides open to reveal an inner case, which can further articulate so that the piece can become a desk clock.
The skeletonised hand-wound Calibre 7501 is based on the AP Calibre 7121 introduced for the new generation 16202 Jumbo back in 2022.
Framed by a natural‑stone dial, it features openworked bridges which act as the lines of the hour‑markers.
The movement has been entirely skeletonised by hand using a traditional hacksaw.
Front view
The movement has been entirely skeletonised by hand using a traditional hacksaw.
Front view
Rear view
The 68 x 42 mm outer case is designed to fit in a small pocket, showing only the dramatically faceted, titanium mesh stone-inlaid exterior.
In accordance with the logic of the “établissage” production, this watch is the work of several artisans:
- Emmanuel Desuzinges is responsible for the casing structure and pivoting system,
- Mario Senape for the stone setting,
- Alexis Bernard for the sapphire crystals,
- and Jérôme Besançon for the anglage.
credit: Audemars Piguet & Revolution (photos 4-5)
B/ ÉTABLISSEURS PEACOCK Ref. 75210OW.OO.7521OW.01
Designed by Kenan Géraud, this timepiece plays on visibility and concealment.
When closed, it resembles a beetle.
On demand, thanks to a secret-opening system designed by the legendary Giulio Papi, its head lifts and its wings unfold to reveal an enamelled dial which tilts forward.
The revealed dial features a window for the current (dragging, not jumping) hours.
The following images show the steps of the opening of the Peacock.
Artisans involved are:
- The wings are crafted in the workshop of Adrian Altman.
- The bracelet is crafted entirely at the Musee Atelier Audemars Piguet by jeweler Ywan Kunzle.
- The gold dial is made by Vincent Michel in Saint-Imier and carved into small compartments, which are further hand-engraved by Guy Froidevaux in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Froidevaux is also the engraver for the head and neck of the peacock itself.
- Once engraved, the dial goes to Peseux-based Vanessa Lecci, who champlevé-enamels each of these compartments in different shades.
The watch is powered by hand wound Calibre 3098, which reinterprets the 3090 from 1999.
credit: Audemars Piguet & Revolution (3-4)
C/ ÉTABLISSEURS GALETS Ref. 75220BA.OO.7522BA.01
Conceptualised by independent designer Xavier J. Perrenoud, this timepiece pays tribute to the pebbles of the Lac de Joux, a lake near AP's Le Brassus headquarters.
The completely asymmetrical bracelet, crafted by Genevan jeweler Nadia Morgenthaler, consists of pebble-shaped yellow gold links of varying sizes, connected via tiny ball joints.
The gold links are inlaid with turquoise and tiger's eye stones in the Cossonay workshops of Mario Senape.
The center asymmetrical oval-shaped case has been designed and crafted by Théo Massouatis and Pablo Brenlla in Geneva.
Calibre 3098 was developed especially for the Établisseurs Galets watch, based on the historical Calibre 3090.
In 1972, Audemars Piguet took part in the Baden Baden jewellery competition with the watch known as "Arabella", whose design inspired the Établisseurs Galets watch.
credit: Revolution (1), Watchonista (5) & Audemars Piguet
I'm personally very glad to see Audemars Piguet being creative and following new paths, far away from the Royal Oak.
What about you?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
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Audemars Piguet's new “Établisseurs” collection
The practice of watchmaking , known as “ établissage ,” is a method that spread from the 18th century onwards in the Jura region, particularly in the Neuchâtel mountains. It involves dividing the manufacturing work into small , specialised , and independe...
I like the desk watch and the shaped movement in the last timepiece.
And, of course, the craftsmanship behind these creations is extraordinary even if they are beyond a dream for mere mortals to ever acquire. Thanks for posting Emmanuel. M4
I also like the desk/pocket watch very much: I wouldn't mind owning one, really...
Thanks for looking. Best, Emmanuel
Incredibly creative pieces by AP
Who says they only make Royal Oaks? Thanks, Emmanuel!
A/ ÉTABLISSEURS NOMADE Ref. 75200TI.OO.01- love this one
could this be the modern version of the movado ermeto-hermetic from 1926 which makes it 100years old !! funny that. i would suggest that no skeletonising is done with a hack saw even junior. try a fret or piercing saw the last photo advertisement is of 't...
The Movado is close, but it doesn't transform into a table clock, does it?
The hacksaw is mentioned by AP... I don't know anything more (see images below)... And thanks for Twiggy: I wondered who she was (I thought for a minute it was French actress Jeanne Moreau). Best, Emmanuel ...
Outstanding pieces!
I love the direction AP is going - bringing back artisanal and traditional watchmaking into the modern world. Personally like the Nomade quite a bit - and if they had added an alarm function I would be all over it! This and the new Ultracomplication, QP, ...
Thank you, Peter. I like the Nomad a lot too.
An alarm would be welcome indeed. And I'm glad to see AP moving in a direction I like. Resta's plans sing to me more than Bennahmias'. Just my personal taste of course. Best, Emmanuel
lost in translation
piercing saw blades the movado ermeto as a table/bebside clock ...
Translation error indeed, I guess.
In French the words used are "scie traditionnelle" (traditional saw). Would "coping saw" or "scroll saw" be better? The stand of the Movado is a nice feature.
'piercing saw'-'scie a chantourner' (jig saw would be nearer) used by watch makers and jewellers-for soft metals gold silver platinum brass etc
as you can see the blades-(which cut on the down stroke ) are very small and break easily hack saws cut on the forward stroke
