SJX
[Purist]
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My comprehensive SIHH and Geneva 2009 report
SIHH and Geneva 2009 By Su JiaXian © January 2009
Here is my comprehensive report on the watches presented at SIHH and Geneva two weeks ago.
A couple of things to note.
This is a long report, comprising 656 photos and 13,121 words, but it is divided into single brand sections which are self-contained and can be read individually.
I tried to photograph every new watch launched, or at least one version of it, but in some cases that was not possible. Nonetheless I covered at least the most significant complications unveiled.
All photos and text are mine, therefore all errors, omissions and opinions – there are a lot of opinions – are mine as well.
- SJX
The follow-ups to this post are each dedicated to a specific brand and are in alphabetical order. The following brands are covered in the report:
A. Lange & Söhne
Audemars Piguet
Cartier
Cvstos*
De Bethune
Franck Muller*
Girard-Perregaux
IWC
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Maximilian Büsser & Friends*
Montblanc
Panerai
Piaget
Urwerk*
Vacheron Constantin
Van Cleef & Arpels
*These brands exhibited in Geneva outside of SIHH.
Scroll down to see the follow-up posts detailing each brand's new products. Each brand report is denoted by *** in the post title.
Copyright January 2009 – Su JiaXian & PuristSPro.com - all rights reserved.
PuristSPro Homepage | ThePuristS Homepage
Comments, suggestions, and corrections to this article are welcome.
This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-02-02 22:50:03 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-03-17 18:23:19
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My comprehensive SIHH and Geneva 2009 report
SIHH and Geneva 2009 By Su JiaXian © January 2009 Here is my comprehensive report on the watches presented at SIHH and Geneva two weeks ago. A couple of things to note. This is a long report, comprising 656 photos and 13,121 words, but it is divided into ...
*** A. Lange & Söhne
Each year Lange typically debuts one new complication, plus as assorted number of existing models with new dials or cases. This year continued that tradition but Lange did it better than before. 1815 in platinum - 500 pieces limited edition Two new moveme...
I believe it has a flat hairspring
only the Lange complications have overcoils, but I will double check with Lange. - SJX
Some info on the new balance from Lange
The new balance in the L051.1 of the new 1815 has 4 long screws for regulation of the balance, while the other screws in the balance are used to poise it. It uses a flat hairspring. - SJX
Clarification about the stops seconds on the RL PLM
Hello SJX, Thanks for the great photo reports for the brands, much appreciated ! I have a question though about the stop seconds function on the RL PLM. I have read and heard from various sources different opinions, and i'd thought maybe you could help me...
That was in reference to...
the Cabaret tourbillon which has Roman numerals that are cut off by the subdials. - SJX
I see
where you're coming from, but the sub dial truncating at 6 still is a 'flaw' to me. It's disappointing given such a beautiful movement introduced.
*** Audemars Piguet
Each year the new products from AP can be neatly split into two groups – Royal Oaks and Others. Fortunately, this year Others are numerous and impressive. But let’s get the difficult part out of the way and first run through the new Royal Oaks. The grand ...
*** Cartier
Cartier’s collection this year is typical in the fact that its entry- and mid-level stuff will likely be commercial hits. But it is atypical because its haute horlogerie watches are numerous and are a declaration of Cartier’s goals to push itself upmarket...
*** De Bethune
I am undecided about what I like best of the new De Bethune products. The Dream Watches One and Two were unveiled, but so was the De Bethune roadster. While other companies are making watches with car keys, De Bethune has built its own car. The car was pa...
*** IWC
True to form, IWC showcased a big collection with strong mass market appeal. Two traits that have made IWC what it is – an accessible price point combined with high quality cases and bracelets – are evident in the flagship collection for 2009, the revampe...
*** Jaeger-LeCoultre
Jaeger-LeCoultre presented numerous new products in many directions, which it always does. The number of models and lines verge on being confusing, but some of the new products are worthy of note. There was also a rumour of a ultra-grande complication, on...
The integrated straps
Hi JiaXian, Thank you for your report and superb pics (much better than mine). AFAIK the integrated straps on the Grande Reverso models are Squadra straps used for the show but they are not supposed to be used for production watches. That's what i've unde...
I was given to understand they will be delivered with integrated straps...
Not specifically the straps shown at SIHH, but integrated straps of some sort. - SJX
*** Maximilian Büsser & Friends
Only one model was officially launched by MB&F during the SIHH period, the HM2 in ceramic. In a couple of months, a variant of the HM1 using the last handful of HM1 movements will be unveiled, followed by the HM4 later in the year. From now on, Max will u...
Thanks a lot for these brilliant pics of the HM2.
But are you sure that the HM4 will be released this year ? Because I'm not. I think we will have to expect it till 2010. Fr.Xavier
*** Montblanc
When Montblanc first launched its watch collection several years ago, I visited one of the few Montblanc boutiques (there were much less pervasive then) to check out the range. Only a handful of watches were available, all contained ETA movements and poss...
*** Panerai
I will begin with the comical Egiziano before discussing the proper watches unveiled at SIHH. It is a limited edition of only 300 pieces (whew) and is 60 mm in diameter like the original, but it is cased in titanium whereas the original was steel. And the...
*** Urwerk
The new product launched by Urwerk was the 103T, or ‘Tarantula’. While it is different from the existing 103 with regards to construction and motion of the satellite arms, it is not that different. The 103 is getting long in tooth and the derivatives of t...
*** Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin’s collection this year, whilst small, is probably the best in a long time. No exotic complications unveiled at SIHH; instead VC presented a series of classical watches that are uniformly fine-looking (save for the Overseas which I neve...
*** Van Cleef & Arpels
I only really took notice of Van Cleef et Arpels when they launched the Midnight in Paris astronomical watch a year or two back. Prior to that VC&A had some fairly interesting small complications like alarm watches and chronographs, as well as a unique la...
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thank you SJX for this amazing post and all the time u've put to prepare it. Really amazing. I liked ur critics also. The SIHH should award u a VIP pass for next year salon K.
Fantastic coverage, Jsx.
Thanks for sharing a very comprehensive pictorial eports and candid remarks of the 2009 SIHH/Geneva novelties. Great stuff indeed. Cheers, Jim
Thanks for taking us through the journey in an awesome way!
I would have to say JLC and Panerai were my favs. Be healthy, Matrix.
Brilliant, brilliant report - sumptuous photos and great reporting. Worthy of a
publication and lecture tour in its own right. Greatly enjoyed reading and viewing. I hate to think of the accumulated time that has been spent on this. Many thanks for all your endeavours. Andrew H
Lecture tour
Someone else is already doing it, and he does a better job than me, his includes video. - SJX
Video? Of what?
Watch hands going around dials, perhaps. Or CEOs getting drunk and sleazing onto models at after-fair parties. Where can I get tickets? Cheers Tony P
Oh. OK. Anyway, I know who you're talking about
and, accomplished though he is, I doubt he could do a better job with video than you just did with words and pictures. Cheers Tony P
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