Cartier

SJX
[Purist]
8540

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An everyday watch - the Santos Galbee

The mythical everyday watch means different things to different people. One of my everyday watches is the Santos Galbee in steel. In fact it is one of my favourites. In no order of importance:

1.    Bracelet – Humid weather in SE Asia dictates that a bracelet is more practical, though I have to admit with enough watches that are rotated throughout the week leather straps are never really worked too hard.

2.    Automatic with date – The movement is an ETA 2892; the convenience of a date and automatic winding is obvious. The fact that the movement is an ETA does not bother me at all; I am indifferent to it.

3.    Moderate size – At 32 mm wide this is not a large watch, in fact I sometimes get the comment it looks small. The size and slimness means that it sits comfortable on the wrist without moving. And in a pinch it can be pressed into service as a formal watch under double cuffs. Though it is small, the design is distinctive enough that sometimes people recognise it.

4.    Cost – this is not overly expensive which means it’s easy to wear, yet it’s not that inexpensive so it still feels fairly good on the wrist.

This is a watch of the seventies and perhaps eighties. The Santos Galbee was launched in 1978 as a steel and gold watch, part of Les Must de Cartier (“I must have a Cartier”).  And Gordon Gekko wore a solid gold moon phase model (quartz unfortunately) in Wall Street.

But Cartier has kept it up to date with subtle design improvements. This Santos Galbee is the latest iteration and the best in my opinion. The case is sleeker, with a flat case back, and a much high quality bracelet.

Interestingly the bracelet for this watch was only added in 1978, decades after the original Santos of 1904, yet the bracelet is visually perfect with the case styling.

Practical aspects aside, this watch is beautifully executed externally. The case is wonderfully finished with brushed surfaces and polished, bevelled edges. Admittedly the wonderful finish makes it somewhat prone to visible scratches.

Though it is almost monochrome, the blued hands and sapphire cabochon in the crown give it a rich dash of colour.

The biggest shortcoming with this watch is the lack of a half link for the bracelet. Because the clasp is hidden, there is no micro-adjustment at the clasp. Consequently adjustments have to be made by removing or adding links, which are only available in one size.

This watch is a perfect combination of practicality, design, quality, and branding. A perfect everyday watch.

- SJX