Patek Philippe

Obviously many here and myself first may wonder if we will ever see this watch out of the Patek Philippe window at Baselworld or the Geneva boutique. Those who may not wonder such question may answer "why bother?". I've read your many answers complaining in some way about so many "Grande complication" watches in this year's novelties from Patek Philippe. Well if that's really that much a problem for you you can have a look there:  patek.watchprosite.com

I think, or guess, that the truth may be that the market for such complicated watches from Patek Philippe is essential for them. I too think that you first among others ask always more from Patek Philippe. I finally know that Patek Philippe's prestige is due to the historical general high level of quality of its products, but also and maybe even more to the fascination exercised by its permanent prowess on the complicated watch market.

Three year ago the 5207 was revealed at Baselworld. patek.watchprosite.com

This extraordinary instantaneous perpetual calendar based on the toubillon minute repeater calibre from Patek Philippe was the nest for a new improvement of the breed. This improvement is renewed with the new Patek Philippe 5208.

The new watch uses the automatic winding minute repeater base calibre R 27 PS of the 5078, turning it into a R CH 27 PS QI, for "Repetition chronographe 27 mm petite seconde quantieme instantane" so if you need a translation, an automatic winding minute repeater with (monopusher) chronograph and instantaneous perpetual calendar with moon phases.

So if you except the unique piece reference 3615 made between 1982 and 1986, the new 5208 is the first wristwatch from Patek Philippe mixing a chronograph and a minute repeater. That it adds an instantaneous perpetual calendar emphasizes its exceptional complexity. The automatic winding is a proof in some way of the usability wished by Patek Philippe.

Beyond what is apparent on its face, the Patek Philippe 5208 adds

The apparition of the Spiromax and Pulsomax advances in a higher end piece (the 5208 is the #2 now in the order of most complicated wrist watches by Patek Philippe, after the Sky Moon Tourbillon) is the first implementation in the general catalog of the brand (although the 5208 will be limited in numbers by its complexity and sold exclusively by the Geneva boutique for the time being). We can imagine that it is only the beginning of a slow spreading to the whole range.

If the watch is extremely complicated and high tech, it is surprisingly simple in its dial organization and consequently seems easily readable, whatever information you're looking for (and if you can't read it you can still make it ring). The calendar is nearly on line at the top. The time is easily readable on the vertical axis. The chronograph indications are on a horizontal line at the middle. The moon phase is nearly alone at the bottom if someone really wants to read it.

It is also simply usable: only one pusher for the chronograph (start, stop reset), one slider for the repeater!

The implementation of the chronograph parts has been done between the base plate and the calendar plate (that is right below the dial). This was necessary as the repeating mechanism couldn't be moved and needed all the room on the back side. That has two consequences.

 First you won't see the chronograph mechanism from the back.

Then it has necessitated to have an indirect indication of the time as the base plate and the dial were separated by the chronograph mechanism and the cannon pinion couldn't go through the chronograph wheel. So the energy of the cannon pinion is transferred laterally to pass through the chronograph mechanism and be sent back to the middle of the watch dial to drive the minute and hour hands and the instantaneous perpetual calendar indications. Only the seconds hand at six is powered directly!

The perpetual calendar plate is directly inspired from the 5207 plate but has been adapted to accommodate the presence of the chronograph mechanism below. The complication of the instantaneous indication relies in the necessity to have all indications move at the same time of course, and as they need more energy than hands, to have them move perfectly, without any incomplete or excessive move.  Again such constraints were analyzed there: patek.watchprosite.com

The chronograph mechanism is quite modern too as it uses for powering the minute and hours counters the friction drives of the Patek Philippe proprietary calibre CHR 27-525 PS of the ultra thin split seconds 5959 (and now also 5950 and 5951). It also uses the toothing profiles of the chronograph wheels of the same calibre, to reduce wear and increase power transmission efficiency.

Furthermore it also uses the patented self setting hammers and brake levers of the other proprietary chronograph calibre CH 29-535 PS of the 5170 and now 5270. This calibre was extensively explained there: patek.watchprosite.com

As already said the chronograph is of the monopusher style. There's only one pusher that always repeat the same cycle: start/stop/reset.

The seconds are read on the central hand, the 60 minutes at 3H30 and the 12 hours at 8H30. You will notice that the leap year indicator and the night and day indicator are discreetly sunk into the chronograph counters.

Another aspect that you may easily miss is the case construction. Please look at the picture above and you will notice a three parts construction: back, middle and bezel. But these three parts are clenched between and screwed to two clamps. These two clamps are also the pierced lugs. That gives a very appealing construction as you can also see below.

The 701 parts fit in a 44mm platinum case (thickness 15,70mm). You will find the full technical data below.

Are you ready to measure the time it takes to your minute repeater to ring the time ?

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