Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe, a review of the mechanical chronograph without calendar complication.

Patek Philippe Chronographs-the combination of Patek Philippe and Chronograph is an intoxicating, addictive and financially devastating mix. Be prepared to be seduced, you have been warned.

Patek Philippe is one of the most revered manufactures in the horological world. When you also consider that one of the most popular complications in horology is the chronograph, it is hardly surprising that the combination is so sought after. Whilst Patek Philippe is famed for its calendar complications, minute repeaters and tourbillons its contribution to the development of the chronograph is often overlooked. Patek Philippe has been producing exceptional wrist chronographs since the dawn of the wristwatch. In 1902 Patek Philippe applied for the first ever patent for a split second’s chronograph.

The first chronographs manufactured in the 1920’s were made in tonneau and round Officers style cases.

Pic credit Sotheby's

The Early years.

It was in the 1930’s with the launch of the ref.130 that “serial” production of chronographs began. Whilst the ref.130 is perhaps the most recognised of all vintage Patek Philippe chronographs, there are some rare and extremely valuable variations within the reference. The standard ref.130 featured a traditional two button chronograph mechanism with square pushers. Generous in size for the thirties at 33mm it had a minute counter as well as the chronograph centre second’s hand. It was made in both gold and steel (and very rarely combinations of steel and gold), with the most desired versions being in white gold and staybrite steel. Steel versions differed slightly from their gold counterparts by having thicker lugs, giving them a more sturdy appearance. Dials have a tremendous impact on values, sector style dials, Breguet numbers and pulsation scales drastically push up desirability and naturally the value too. Chronographs in platinum are as rare as hen’s teeth.

Steel ref 130 pulsation dial

One particularly sought after variant of the ref.130 is the split second adaptation. The split second or rattrapante function allows the user to time two events simultaneously. The chronograph has two seconds hands, one for the intermediate time and one for the final time measurements. It is an extremely complex mechanism to manufacture and pushes the watchmaker’s art to a new summit. The ref.130 split seconds chronograph was later reclassified as the ref. 1436. Split seconds chronographs were of course very expensive to buy when new, and consequently are very rare today. Production of the ref.1436 continued until 1971, considering it started in 1938, it is one of Patek Philippe’s longest running references. They are another lusted after Patek Philippe chronograph. Made in yellow gold mostly, some were also made in rose gold. I once wrote that “I have heard there were steel versions, and if they do exist and ever turn up at auction, well the sky is the limit as they say.” And of course I was right with Phillips selling two a ref 130 and a ref 1436 last year.

Pic credit Phillips auctioneer

Increased demand for chronographs in the 1940’s and post war period was satiated by the artisans at Patek Philippe, with new larger versions of the ref.130. Launched as the ref.530 and 570, they are again highly desirable references especially because of their outsized 35mm cases. Unfortunately, they are once more exceedingly uncommon. When they do appear at auction, record prices are the rule. Most were made in yellow gold, and versions in steel are about as common as Ferrari GTO’s. A new larger 35mm non water resistant chronograph made its debut in 1943. This new reference 1579 was made in yellow gold as well as in extremely rare white and pink gold versions. Even rarer are the platinum cased examples, made in just three pieces and the staybrite steel models, of which I believe just three have turned up for auction. This model has to be one of the most elegant chronographs ever designed. The three-body, case featured a polished, sloped bezel, and gorgeous faceted teardrop lugs.

As well these more common references Patek Philippe have produced several other snap back chronographs, often in less than a dozen or so pieces. An extremely rare, references such as the 1506, with its large 36mm case and extended lugs, is such an example.

Ref 1579

Ref 1506 courtesy of Philips

Ref 530

Water Resistant Chronographs.

Patek Philippe started producing waterproof cases in the 1940’s, so it was natural that at some stage they would manufacture their first chronograph offering protection against water ingression. What they created was not just a waterproof chronograph, but for me one of the most beautiful watches ever created. It is stunning from every angle, from the design of the lugs, the pushers, the bezel and the utterly beautiful case. Everything about the 1463 was perfect, the size was a generous 35mm, and the case featured a screwed back together with a generous sized winding crown.

Made in yellow gold, rose gold and ultra rare steel, there is no such commodity as an inexpensive 1463 reference. Subtle variations only add thousands to the value.

As if the ref.1463 was not desirable enough, there is a fabulous split seconds version, the ref.1563. In 2002, Phillips auctioneers, sold one in yellow gold. This was no ordinary chronograph; it belonged to famous pianist Duke Ellington, and was acquired for Sfr.2, 533,500,(possible only one of three ever made).

Ref 1463 Pulsation courtesy Antiquorum

Steel 1463

ref 1563 Duke Ellington

The modern era

The Patek chronograph that enjoys a cults following, as the posts here in Purists attest to, is is the ref.5070, simple chronograph. Why? In my opionion it represents the most splendid fusion of vintage and modernity. Vintage Patek break records at auction for a reason; they represent the apogee of technical excellence coupled with aesthetic perfection - the 5070 is true to this formula. With a generous modern proportion of 42mm it was launched in 1998, in yellow gold with a black dial and production has always been limited to 250 pieces per year. The case shows obvious inspiration from classic Patek Philippe’s of yesteryear such as the ref.2552 automatic, whilst the dial is copied from the famous split seconds aviator chronograph from 1952 (watch no.867857). The sapphire back allows for visual inspection of the famed nouvelle Lemania calibre, finished exquisitely in house by Patek Philippe.

This message has been edited by Miranda on 2016-01-08 09:40:25

Ref 5070p cult watch

The inspiration behind the 5070j

Split Seconds resurgence – rebirth of a masterpiece

Technical mastery of the art of split seconds mechanism has certainly not been forgotten at the manufacture. Patek Philippe proudly presented the worlds thinnest split seconds chronograph in the shape of the reference 5959P now available in steel tonneau case as the ref.5950. It is a true technical tour de force comprising of 252 parts the movement and yet is just 5.25mm thick. Production of these masterpieces is limited to just a few pieces each year.

Ref 5959

Launch of a new classic: the reference 5170

Following on from the ref.5070, was no easy feat. In fact some could say that it was an impossible an unenviable task. But I feel that in the case of the Patek Philippe chronograph Ref. 5170, the attribute is vindicated. Launched in 2010, it is the first chronograph developed entirely by Patek Philippe and crafted exclusively in the manufacture’s workshops.

The new CH 29-535 PS chronograph caliber for the Ref. 5170 is a classic manually wound chronograph movement with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch. The main for Patek Philippe was to create one of the most beautiful chronograph and technically proficient calibers ever made.

The development of the CH 29-535 PS movement took more than five years spawning six new patents. As with all high end classical chronographs the CH 29-535 PS caliber is controlled by a column wheel that in the traditional aesthetic of Patek chronograph movement rotates beneath a polished cap. The cap however is not just purely for aesthetic reasons, it also firmly secures the chronograph levers in their positions – even in the event of sharp jolts – so it enhances functional reliability. The movement features an instantaneously jumping 30-minute counter, a frequency of 4 hertz (28,800 semi-oscillations/hour) and a continued power reserve of 65 hours approximately 58 hours when the chronograph is running).

Technical audacity exemplified by six patents

The new calibre rises to the top in technical prowess as demonstrated by six patented innovations:

1. Optimized tooth profile Suppression of hand bounce or rebound when starting. Vibration-free chronograph hand movement. Improved efficiency and reduction of mechanical wear.

2. Precision adjustment of wheel mesh at the column wheel The large eccentric polished column wheel cap allows the very precise adjustment of mesh depth of the chronograph wheels at the outer end of the clutch lever.

3. Optimized synchronization of the clutch and brake levers

The clutch lever and the brake lever are directly synchronized with a finger at the clutch lever. The complicated involvement of the column wheel is not necessary.

4. Slotted minute-counter cam Thanks to a slot in the minute-counter cam, the chronograph counter can gently come to a standstill when reset.

5. Self-setting hammers- Self-setting return to zero hammers improve functional reliability and dependability.

6. Hammers pivoted between jewel bearings .The two hammers that reset the chronograph hand and the minute counter are independently and coaxially suspended between jewel bearings. Each hammer is pressed against its respective heart cam with its own spring. This system optimizes the precise alignment of the hammers and the kinetics of the mechanism.

The technical advantage is further enhanced with a number of additional features that improve reliability and performance. The instantaneous 30-minute counter is much more complicated than a semi-instantaneous or continuous counter. Its elaborate construction assures that the small hand jumps within a fraction of a second, enhancing precision and legibility. The driving wheel of the chronograph is another example: it is directly integrated in the wheel train and does not need to be subsequently assembled by the watchmaker.The new 5170G with black Breguet dial is sumptuous rendition of this new reference.

The best modern Patek ever?

And this brings us nicely to another Black Breguet dial wonder, probably and arguably the most exquisite modern Patek ever made. It is of course the 5370p split seconds, the spiritual successor to the famed 1436.

Already legendary in such a short space of time since launch, and near impossible to get hold of, it is quite simply the stuff of dreams. The 5370P features a 41 mm platinum case with a concave beze, and reminds us very clearly of the vintage style of its historic forbears. The dial is a gorgeous deep black enamel dial with Breguet numerals. The case is 41 mm (my very ,very minor wish would have been for 39mm).The thickness of the 5370p is 13.56 mm, just perfect for a split second mechanism and actually provides for a nicely balanced look with the 41mm case. Some have described the 5370p as the most perfect watch since the 5970p (maybe even 5070p), and I cannot argue with that. It is perfect vintage modern. The only downside is I will never own one………