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Rolex Submariner 5508

 

I am posting this thread as I know, soon, Nicolas will have completed his 5508 by getting the correct insert. After many years.....indeed. In fact, it is in any case time to take another look at this non crown guard Submariner - a watch that so often gets overlooked in comparison to the Big Crowns and subsequent crown guard versions. I am in a lucky position in having found what I consider to be as nice a 5508 as I am inclined to find. Well, lets put it this way, next to Nicolas's 5508, I think we both feel indifferent as to which we would own.....both having their clear plus points.  


First things first, lets have a look at the watch in action....what is it that provides the attraction of this watch?




Well, firstly lets start with the era of production.....1957-1961. Although the watch continued to appear for sale for many years after 1961, the production run was in fact quite short. Over this production run, the 5508 was produced using the Caliber 1530 and as can be seen from the picture above, with a glossy dial. Collectors have come to truly appreciate the attraction of the 1950s and 1960s glossy dials. They exude a richness which is hard to describe. More often than not, a gloss dial will have a flaw. Maybe it will be scratches around the centre where the hands revolve, or plausibly the lume will be imperfect. Sometimes, the mirror-like effect of the gloss has lost its lustre. There can many factors that affect the dial, for sure. In my view, Nicolas's 5508 has the most mirror-like finish of any 5508 I have seen. Mine is close to his, but not quite as brilliant. To my mind, having this gloss finish on a watch that is over 50 years old is one of its biggest positives. It really differentiates it....it has that overt vintage look but with a brilliant gloss dial finish......very sexy.

Now onto another factor that makes the watch interesting. 1957-1961....its an era that is beset with uncertainty for Rolex insofar as the period is one where the composition of the lume came under intense scrutiny. Radium was used, but after international law shifted, it became necessary to use another radioactive material. For a very brief period, and only on a very small batch of watches, Strontium was used. This was quickly changed. Tritium was brought into use. Just how quickly and how comprehensively this switch to tritium occurred is ALWAYS hotly debated amongst Rolex collectors. The use of special signifiers on the dial have been argued to point towards evidence of a switch having been made. For example, some argue that the appearance of an "underline" beneath the word "Submariner" was indicative of the fact that Rolex had changed the dial from one with Radium to the safer Tritium. Similarly, the "exclamation dot" right below the "6" is similarly argued to represent this switch. The honest answer is that nobody knows for certain. Some watches have underlines. Some have exclamation points. Some have nothing. I will also say that it is entirely possible that a dial has an exclamation point (indicating a switch to Tritium) yet STILL has Radium on the lume.....Rolex could be lazy and just not have bothered to switch, it being far easier (and cheaper) just to stick a small dot under the 6! (Picture is not of my watch)





But in the way that is quite uniquely Rolex, the uncertainty and lack of clarity about the historical backdrop adds to the romance and mystery.

The 5508 is also distinctly smaller than other Submariners, both in depth and width. Its smaller size creates a feel more of charm than power. The 6200, 5510 and 6538 Big Crowns are overtly powerful watches. I am not saying that these Big Crowns lack poise, but the small crown variants like the 5508 definitely seem to exude more refinement. The case of the 5508 is most definitely another, then, of its attractions. I love the case on my 5508. It is so incredibly crisp for a watch that is so old.




And on this shot above one also sees another of the little things that make the watch so attractive....the + crown. So often, the crown carries the - sign. It is not such a big deal, really, just nice to see these quirks.

I appreciate that there are many who adore these small crown Submariners. Yet, over the years, they have just not received the clamour that has been aroused by the Big Crowns. In fact, if one compares them against the early gilt crownguards of 5512 and 5513, collectors have tended to much prefer the latter. I have a small theory on why this may be the case. It is a theory with a twofold answer.

1) Pre-crownguard, one compares the 5508 with the 6538 and 6200. Small crown versus Big. Against the competition, it is truly hard to see how the small crown can win. The 6538 has the James Bond theme going for it, whilst the 6200 is the very first Big Crown (and plausibly the first Submariner on the Rolex design block) with the 3-6-9 Explorer dial. In this context, the small crown will always be the Boxter competing against the 911. 

2) When Rolex designed the crownguard, it unwittingly came developed a design feature that would make its watches iconic. Yep, those crownguards are a big part of the Rolex DNA that have made Rolex an icon. Would you rather own the very first Submariner with crownguards, the 5512, or the 5508? Well, both came with glossy dials, but one has that unique Rolex DNA, and with it the associated power and strength of a Submariner. If you boil it down, when someone buys a Submariner, are they looking for power and strength or are they looking for poise and charm? The 5508 has a sporty look, for sure, but power and strength are to be found more overtly in other Submariners. 

In many ways, however, it is wrong to compare the 5508 with either the Big Crowns or the Crownguard Submariners. One is comparing apples with pears. The watches are not really comparable. Rather, one should look at the 5508 as a watch that offers quite unique features for a Rolex...it is that individuality and how that brings something different to the vintage table that should be appreciated with this watch. Its sporty yet has that ability to exude charm and poise. It could easily look stunning at a black tie event....could a 5512 really do that so well? 


This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-11-17 06:00:27 This message has been edited by Baron on 2014-12-01 02:05:25

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