PeterCDE
10167
Variations in Rose Gold - some impressions of GP´s news in precious metals
Dear enthusiasts,
2008 seems to be more of a calm year so far; genuine news aren´t that many, which seems to keep in mind uncertain future developments in economically not always stable times. The number of truly grand creations is likewise limited and while the trend towards larger case sizes paired with "noveau designs" remains to be unbroken, there´s a small rose growing: several brands seem to discover a classic, understated appearance finds an appreciating customer base as much as incorporations of flashiness.
Among the trends we´ve witnessed in earlier years, the grand come back of rose gold as the metal of choice is unbroken.
In general, yellow gold seems to be "out"; side notes of trade and industry indicate enthusiasts are still looking for alterations of what a "gold watch" should look like. In this, white gold and Platinum remain to be much appreciated, with Rose Gold to be the first choice in coloured variations. Actually ladies watches don´t follow this trend exactly, but interestingly rose gold models are on the move in this genre as well.
In this, Girard-Perregaux adds three particularly interesting models:
Laureato Evo Moon, rose gold
First of all, the already much appreciated "Evo Moon" now does see "golden times".
GP´s reference 80185, introduced in 2006, offered steel on bracelet only; a solid gold variant was quite often asked and here it comes:
The new "Evo Moon", as this model is lovingly dubbed by it´s fans, adds two differences.
For one it´s a very solid and massive gold case of warm rose gold. This affects the weight, in that this model on strap easily weights more than 160 gramms on the wrist. But despite the weight, the beautiful shape made to hug the wrist still results in a very comfortable wrist feeling. And the rose gold to me underlines the elegance of GP´s Laureato case, which is so much more than just a sports watch.
Second, the new RG version is the first to introduce a strap to this model. To me it´s a very nice addition (although a gold bracelet would be an interesting view), particularly with the new dial. The colour scheme of the new RG Evo Moon is more understated as the rose gold case alone may suggest; actually it´s quite an understated watch on the wrist and given it´s very comfortable, it may be even more versatile - wearing a steel watch on steel bracelet still is a new sight to formal dress codes.
The inner values remain unchanged, as the Evo Moon combines GP´s manufacture-made GP33XX caliber with three in-house complications (power reserve, large date, moon phase).
All in all, the new RG Evo Moon is a beauty; it´s not cheap, but the Evo Moon is quite a rarity in GP´s portfolio already now and hence it sure will be a watch not seen around every corner, but one that will do well in any environment.
Vintage 1945 Square, Perpetual Calendar
The second model is a completely new addition to GP´s portfolio.
The year of 2007 witnessed the introduction of a square model within GP´s Vintage 1945 range; the "Vintage Square" ref. 25820 added a new look for the most successfull line by Girard-Perregaux.
Meanwhile the line of square models was added a chronograph and these enjoy considerable success; the new case geometry adds substance, which is a point widely appreciated in today´s markets searching for larger dimensions.
This year, the "Vintage Square" sub-range is extended by a high complication; the Vintage case receives a special Perpetual Calendar, which among the many details first of all results in a very beautiful watch:
There are numerous details and features, such as the use of a curved dial particularly difficult to manufacture. But it´s the movement which makes this one stand out; the new "Vintage Square QP" is the first to bear GP´s newly introduced "MICROVAR" free-sprung balance and escapement (not the constant-energy "Constant escapement", though).
But as said, beyond all technical merits and details, it´s a very beautiful watch and a very comfortable piece as well. It´s made to be worn and future owners for sure will experience a lot of wearing pleasure.
A world´s first: Tourbillon Chronograph with, Rattrapante and Foudroyante
The third piece lifts us up to GP´s Haute Horlogerie range with a world´s first: the first wristwatch to combine a chronograph rattrapante, a tourbillon and a Foudroyante (often called a "lightning second").
Following GP´s theme "watches for the few", this strictly limited edition of 33 pieces in rose gold is a real beastie.
The Tourbillon Chronograph is a demanding complication, as power supply is critical - both complications themselves are much demanding. To do so in a wrist watch is a rare treat and even more is GP´s latest: 96 hours of power reserve (or 4 1/2 days) is a very special achievement.
But that´s not all, the movement made of 507 parts features two more power-consuming indications. The first is a Rattrapante, the split-second indication which allows to time intermediate intervals while counting the main time. The Rattrapante is a tricky specialty and so far, very few managed to combine the Tourbillon Chronograph with a Rattrapante indication (that is namely, the Lange "PLM"). And it´s one of exceptionally few Rattrapante watches to bear an isolator mechanism, which allows to separate the Rattrapante hand from the gear train. This way, the power-consuming Rattrapante indication does not interfere with the basic gear train of the watch, which then helps to achieve a more precise timekeeping performance.
Following GP´s heritage of 1880´s, the new beastie adds one more chronograph indication on top: the Foudroyante or "lightning second". Such is a rare specialty to come by and the "skipping" hand indicating 1/6 of a second in chronograph mode is a challenging mechanism. Not only small timing intervals demand smallest tolerances and extremely small movement parts, but the mechanism itself requires a separate power supply. Like a "watch within a watch", the necessity to integrate an additional barrel and synchronize the demanding Foudroyante mechanism with the main chronograph cadrature may be the reasons as to why such is seen so very seldom.
The Tourbillon Chrongraph Rattrapante Foudroyante (can we stick with "the beastie"? 
) is housed in a generously dimensioned case of 46mm; but it wouldn´t a GP and genuine GP design if such results in a uncomfortable wrist feeling - it´s very wearable and if not knowing what it does, it´s a likewise unspectacular watch from a few feet distance. Almost understated, if not for one of the most complex watch movements ever....
USA-special : The Laureato RG/Rubber limited editon
To come back to GP´s more sportive lines, a new addition to the Laureato range brings a very unusual sight:
This new model will be strictly limited to 35 units and only available at hand-picked GP-authorized dealers in the USA. The case of this one is different, in that the conventional transparent back is replaced by a solid gold back, which adds some significant heft to the watch. The accents of the watch create a two-tone appearance in an unforseen and new way, which i happen to like very much. The rubber coating of the bezel, pushers and crown goes very nicely with the warm shine of the case and the wonderful depth of the very fine genuine carbon fibre dial.
There aren´t too many colours combined, something much to my personal taste (and i´m very sure, to others as well). And despite the considerable weight, it´s a very comfortable piece.
Of course other straps do match the case and if i recall correctly, plans were mentioned to include a leather strap for these special units as well.
It won´t be seen often, which somehow is a pity - it´s just too nice a combination and will be hard to find!
To me all above assure an ongoing trend, in that Rose Gold is here to stay!
And with good reasons, as all new GP models proof!
Greetings from Germany,
Peter
(pictures and text not to be reproduced without permission)
