stromer
2453
NOMOS manually wound movements
Hi
Graham,
the Tangente is a great watch. That you posted it today is
a funny coincidence as I am wearing my yellow gold Orion today
which I do not do often.
The ALPHA movement has gone a long
way from its roots in the Peseux 7001. Indeed there have been 5 steps of
evolution.
The first four based on 7001s
that NOMOS bought and finished (or had finished
initially).
- The 7001 (1992): The
version of the 7001 that NOMOS used initially featured the sun grinding
typical for Glashütte on the crown wheel and the barrel wheel, the
"Glashütter Streifenschliff" (same thing as the Côtes de Genève) on the
bridges and blued screws (except the slots, probably the screws were
nickeled in the movement kits and could not be "cleaned" completely). This finishing was done by Soprod.
- The "1 T": In
this first evolutionary step the plate and bridges of the movement
became matted and gold plated. The plate was decorated with a Langeleist
Perlage. A Triovis fine regulation device was added. Now the whole
screws were blued. Finishing the movements was now performed by NOMOS at Glashütte as far as I know.
- The "1 TS" added a hacking
second.
- The "1
TSP" replaced the barrel bridge and the wheel train bridge with the
typical Glashütte 3/4 plate. (Btw, it is typical for Glashütte, not for
German watches in general.) This included employing the typical
Glashütte "ratchet" that locks the barrel wheel. Still the movement
based on Peseux 7001 kits.
- The "ALPHA" (2005) then was a full inhouse movement. It is a new development that kept the dimensions of the Peseux
wheel train. The balance and balance spring (Quality 1a) are sourced
from Nivarox. A part of the wheel train is inhouse, another part is
sourced due to capacity constraints. The plates are Rhodium plated
any make it easy to distinguish the the ALPHA from the former Peseux based
movements.
There are three more variants of the Alpha
movement:
- BETA includes a date
display. It is interesing to notice that the movement is only 0,2mm
thicker than the no date version. However it is 32,2mm in diameter as
opposed to the 23,3 of the Alpha. So the date mechanism was not
constructed on top of the movement but around
it.
- DELTA
includes a date and a power reserve display. Here we have
the remarkable fact that mechanism of the power reserve display
consists of six parts only. It does not add to the dimentions of the
movement.
- GAMMA
features the power reseve display but not the date. It is
0,2mm thicker than Alpha but not
wider.
A tell tale detail is this little story: As soon as 1997 Peseux asked NOMOS to
cease calling the movement Peseux movements because too many parts had
been changed were changed by NOMOS and Peseux spare parts would not fit
any more.
For me the NOMOS hand wound movements are
clearly the most economic way to get hold of a manufacture movement in general and
of a "real watch" from Glashütte in particular.
The automatic
movements were developed from scratch inhouse, but that is another
story to be told another day.
Best,
Martin P.S.: You may
want to try
to get your hands onto a NOMOS ETA movement. Inspite of what JLC claims
for the Extreme Lab, the ETA was the first movement to require no
lubrication at all. And the power reserve is just
enormous.
Available on the marketplace
a quality brand...
By: tee530 : January 12th, 2010-09:02
Graham, Very nice acquisition. I have been a fan of Nomos for some time, although I don't own any of their watches. I respect their design sensibilities, their dedication to in-house movement development, reasonable sizes, and high-value (to the owner) pr...
thanks for the info Tom....
By: G99 : January 12th, 2010-09:08
thanks for the info Tom. does that mean that the Alpha movement is not truly in-house as they claim, but merely a development on the Pesaux or has it been developed so far as to now be an in-house movement? the colour is great, glad you like it. best Grah...
opinions will vary, but...
By: tee530 : January 12th, 2010-10:25
...even acknowledging that the term "in-house movement" has few unarguable examples in the watchmaking world, I would consider the Alpha to be in-house. Yes, the design and layout of the caliber came from the Peseux 7001 (a very high-quality design, by th...
[Sigh]... I know...
By: tee530 : January 12th, 2010-10:51
...I would like to get one, but probably not at the moment, although I keep checking the sales boards! Nomos watches take a real beating on the secondary market, I've observed, for reasons I can't understand. Well, all right, I can understand, but don't a...
i fully agree about LE's...
By: G99 : January 12th, 2010-10:58
i fully agree about LE's Tom although i wasnt aware they had done so many. it does seem that every german brand have done a LE for the 100th anniversary of Wempe factory. it was the number that did it for me. #99 is my number. even my cars number plate ha...
Adjustments...
By: tee530 : January 12th, 2010-10:29
Guess we cross-posted, Graham. My understanding is that the Alphas of 2004 to 2008 or so were adjusted in 4 positions, while the ones produced now are adjusted in 6. Think about both of those items. When was the last time you saw a movement with either fo...
Martin. this is one of...
By: G99 : January 12th, 2010-11:37
Martin. this is one of the things i love about this forum. the knowledge base is immense. i've learnt more about Nomos tonight than i've learnt in the last 2 years of looking at them. i'm now immensely proud to own this watch, my first true German in-hous...
Graham, I am only trying
By: stromer : January 12th, 2010-11:50
to give back a little of what I receive from you - especially when things narrow down on Omega - and all the other most friendly people here. A pleasure to share with you! One more thing: The NOMOS catalogue is absolutely worth reading. It contains a lot ...
Fun it their second name
By: stromer : January 12th, 2010-12:30
at NOMOS and the they like most making fun of theirselves. When I was in Glashütte last Easter holiday I was in their little shop and had the chance to get the encyclopedia. I was stupid enough not to take it just because it was the English version. The G...
Sorry, Graham
By: stromer : January 12th, 2010-22:45
but the point is that did not buy it. Neither in German (it was sold out even before i noticed it existed) nor English (I was stupid enough to take it). If it is worth buying depends on what you expect. If you were looking for a dead serious encyclopedia ...
Great info..
By: tee530 : January 13th, 2010-06:31
Martin, thanks for filling in the timeline with such great detail. I'd love to hear more about the Tangomat movement if you've got the time. I heard an anecdote about the Tangomat's development, that long before its release, Nomos put a number of prototyp...
At first sight ..
By: bimbeano : January 12th, 2010-14:17
.. i wasn't really convinced by this dial; but the more i look at it, the more it appeals to me ... i think you'll have to come over once again Graham, so i can inspect it personally. Some yaers ago i bought something completely different instead of a Nom...
its a dial that grows...
By: G99 : January 12th, 2010-14:22
its a dial that grows on you. it has a lot of vibrancy sometimes looking a coppery orange and other times a mustardy yellow. i think you would like the size for your skinny wrist, but i'm more than happy to come over just to show it to you :) best #99
thanks Ming. the colour is...
By: G99 : January 13th, 2010-01:59
thanks Ming. the colour is superb and the number was fate working for me. last year i saw a used Anonimo with bronze alloy case #99/149 and i didnt go for it despite really wanting a bronze cased watch. i regret it to this day, but the pricing was quite d...
NOMOS fan here too!!
By: vernon : January 13th, 2010-04:07
Hi Graham, I'm pleased you like your new Nomos. I have three and like them all - two Tangomats and one Orion. Four if you count the 'sun-dial' - have you seen this? I also got my girlfriend a Wempe limited edition Tangente which has a nice day/night indic...
Vernon, owning 4 is just...
By: G99 : January 13th, 2010-07:10
Vernon, owning 4 is just greedy :) believe it or not i do like simple time only watches, but if i bought all that i liked i'd have hundreds (again). for me it was the colour, the number and the movement that sold it to me. coping well in the snow thanks. ...
nice NOMOS watch...
By: FanFrancisco : January 13th, 2010-07:06
hi Graham, i am also aware of this brand some time back simply because of its simplicity and clean dial. very recent, i found there is another nice looking model that is with a small circle window of PR indicator under the 12 o'clock position. thanks for ...
A man after my own heart
By: Ginger : January 13th, 2010-14:24
My local watch seller is now a Nomos dealer, and I have been thinking hard about one. One thing that appeals to me is the smaller diameter - there are very few truly unisex watches being manufactured. Doesn't look too small on you. The shell cordovan is a...
thanks Laurens, the #99...
By: G99 : January 14th, 2010-15:09
thanks Laurens, the #99 was pure luck. i just saw the watch, read the details and couldnt believe my luck. i wish i could have afforded the Anonimo bronze alloy case #99 i saw last year as i really like the idea of a case that matures and patinates with a...