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Glashütte Original

NOMOS manually wound movements

 

Hi Graham,

the Tangente is a great watch. That you posted it today is a funny coincidence as I am wearing my yellow gold Orion today which I do not do often.

The ALPHA movement has gone a long way from its roots in the Peseux 7001. Indeed there have been 5 steps of evolution.
The first four based on 7001s that NOMOS bought and finished (or had finished initially).

  1. The 7001 (1992): The version of the 7001 that NOMOS used initially featured the sun grinding typical for Glashütte on the crown wheel and the barrel wheel, the "Glashütter Streifenschliff" (same thing as the Côtes de Genève) on the bridges and blued screws (except the slots, probably the screws were nickeled in the movement kits and could not be "cleaned" completely). This finishing was done by Soprod.
  2. The "1 T": In this first evolutionary step the plate and bridges of the movement became matted and gold plated. The plate was decorated with a Langeleist Perlage. A Triovis fine regulation device was added. Now the whole screws were blued. Finishing the movements was now performed by NOMOS at Glashütte as far as I know.
  3. The "1 TS" added a hacking second.
  4. The "1 TSP" replaced the barrel bridge and the wheel train bridge with the typical Glashütte 3/4 plate. (Btw, it is typical for Glashütte, not for German watches in general.) This included employing the typical Glashütte "ratchet" that locks the barrel wheel. Still the movement based on Peseux 7001 kits.
  5. The "ALPHA" (2005) then was a full inhouse movement. It is a new development that kept the dimensions of the Peseux wheel train. The balance and balance spring (Quality 1a) are sourced from Nivarox. A part of the wheel train is inhouse, another part is sourced due to capacity constraints. The plates are Rhodium plated any make it easy to distinguish the the ALPHA from the former Peseux based movements.
There are three more variants of the Alpha movement:
  • BETA includes a date display. It is interesing to notice that the movement is only 0,2mm thicker than the no date version. However it is 32,2mm in diameter as opposed to the 23,3 of the Alpha. So the date mechanism was not constructed on top of the movement but around it.
  • DELTA includes a date and a power reserve display. Here we have the remarkable fact that mechanism of the power reserve display consists of six parts only. It does not add to the dimentions of the movement.
  • GAMMA features the power reseve display but not the date. It is 0,2mm thicker than Alpha but not wider.
A tell tale detail is this little story: As soon as 1997 Peseux asked NOMOS to cease calling the movement Peseux movements because too many parts had been changed were changed by NOMOS and Peseux spare parts would not fit any more.

For me the NOMOS hand wound movements are clearly the most economic way to get hold of a manufacture movement in general and of a "real watch" from Glashütte in particular.
The automatic movements were developed from scratch inhouse, but that is another story to be told another day.

Best,
Martin


P.S.: You may want to try to get your hands onto a NOMOS ETA movement. Inspite of what JLC claims for the Extreme Lab, the ETA was the first movement to require no lubrication at all. And the power reserve is just enormous.


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