Horological warfare: stainless steel perpetual calendars
L.U.Chopard’s new perpetual twin US$24,700 monochrome-watches.com Versus IWC’s new Portugueser Perpetual Calendar US$22,000 www.timeandwatches.com Which wins? I know what I’d buy ...
None
When it comes to perpetual calendars, I gravitate back to Patek — and thats only if I want one which I don’t at this point. I think the presentation of a PC is very important. The problem with the Chopard is the case size. If at 39-40mm I think this would...
Yeah, the size makes it a no-go for certain-sized wrists.
But then again (please correct me if I’m wrong) Patek doesn’t make a dress watch perpetual calendar in stainless steel. if they did, it wouldn’t be in the same pricing category and the waitlist would be quoted in ‘decades’😁😁
It’s more than a counter-attack, IMHO.
65-hr PR from a micro-rotor!!! There’s another couple of neat tid-bits up it’s sleeve as well. Let’s see if others appreciate them, or see them as just marketing talk points.
True.
The base Chopard movement is one for which I have a soft spot. It was an early movement to adopt a double barrel system to increase the power reserve. While the Pellaton winding system is frequently discussed in the context of the IWC 7 day movements, the...
I can only nod in appreciation for the erudition. 🙏🏿
Is the geneva seal issue just due to manufacture location? And, if so, why couldn’t they issue it with the QF (Qualite Fleurier) certification if it is truly finished to the same degree??
Thanks for the kind comment
As you might know, they used to Geneva seal the more refined variants of that movement (for example in the 1.96 but not the 4.96 of the Chopard Sport 2000) but stopped obtaining Geneva seals when they started doing QF. I would imagine that it certainly re...
Moon phase vs large date
Tough call. I think I like the previous IWC perpetual better than either of these, but I voted for a GO perpetual with my dollars. I like getting the Panorama date, moon phase, and leap year indication.
I think that most would agree.
I wonder what people think of the following: 1. IWC’s synchronized jumping of the the day/date/month at the same instant. 2. L.U.Chopard’s COSC certification. How many people value one attribute over the other?
Count me with you wholeheartedly. I do have a Chopard LUC date with Geneva Seal and it's thoughtfully finished.
I don't wear it frequently due to pressing consideration of other watches but it's a class apart in many ways. I feel so-called fashion house brands like Chopard and Cartier take care of finishing their high-end watches better than many haute horology mai...
Chopard I posted recently in another thread. Here it is reproduced for visual delight.
Cartier Santos and Tank are in safe. Will take out and post some time later ...
I agree; I would go with the COSC as I am rarely up at midnight
ONLY up that late to take pictures of my perpetuals changing ...
I prefer the Chopard here. That year indicator has got to be one of the smallest hands going!
Chopard makes a fine watch, IMO. Not to imply IWC does not, I have never owned one but some have tempted me over the years.
I’ve always had a soft spot for L.U.Chopard.
Couldn’t never put my hand on why, but I’ve always valued their watches. Thanks for sharing your opinion
Tie 🤣
I don't like the leap year indicator on the LUC and wish it had a moonphase. The IWC subdials seem to be off for me but do like a center seconds. Finishing to LUC.
I wouldn’t have poled the group, had I not considered it too close to call.
So let’s all go out and acquire both timepieces and share our ownership experiences. I know that all of us are aching for the lockdown to end and make a beeline to the ADs. Stay safe everyone
Hi Lanky, the Chopard hands down!
All LUC Chopard are superior to anything coming from Shaffhausen-But why not consider the JLC ultrathin PC at this price point? Courtesy JLC website ...
Wouldn’t you know it; I’ve helped a close friend acquire this specific timepiece: he’s just waiting on delivery.
This is a very svelte timepiece, and from another great “Maison”. For me, though, the 38-hr PR (on the JLC) is it’s Achilles heel. That is before getting into the finishing of the dial and movement, for the L.U.Chopard... Hussam
For me the JLC has the more balanced dial.
I tried it several times. But I found it hard to read. Best Thomas
Yes maybe- big date on the LUC helps a lot-At least you always know what year it is on an JLC-I always loved that, even if it's not super useful one a daily basis.
I really like the font on the LUC-looks like handpainted- looks like the movement is swimming in a big 43 mm pond from the back though-How big is that movement? ...
Oh no....
Looks like a small movement in a large case? That would be not my cup of tea.
Agreed regarding the year; the 44mm IWC PC still has the year, if one can manage the big wrist presence.
The LUC movement is 33 x 6 mm. It wouldn’t be the smallest movement (in comparison to case size) that I’ve ever seen; that award goes to the 3120 caliber in my AP RO😂
Thanks Hussam, didn’t notice that on the IWC
I’m such a non-IWC person that I don’t even look at them. My bad. Prejudices. I love the Ingenieur 666 to death so no offence. On the LUC: Movement has to fit the case. They have to be conceived designed and integrated.
between these two, Definitely Chopard [nt]
But above those two I would choose JLC Master Ultra Thin Perpetual in Stell ( Black, White) or if I have the feeling to go swanky i would go Master Ultra Thin Perpetual Enamel. Here they are by Nico www.watchprosite.com and my choice www.watch...
Thanks for the suggestion, GM.
We’d briefly discussed that timepiece earlier in the thread. A formidable proposition by JLC, indeed. Take care my friend
To be consistent
They should've added the 7 (days) and the 12 (months) on the other two subdials
I’m sure that the ‘seconds’ writing created a lot of debate amongst the design team.
The must have settled it with a rocks-paper-scissors😂😂
You left out the minutes. 60, clearly marked.
Just an observation. Not a slanderous remark.
GMT function?
Apologize for the misplaced question, but why do some perpetual calendars have GMT functions while others don't? Is the addition of a GMT function a specific type of watch model or simply a roll of the dice whether a manufacturer decides to add it or not?...
I don't love either but I prefer...
the Chopard because I know it will be a better finished watch... and the IWC moon is too small... however the Chopard has all the elements crowded 'in the middle' of the dial, or 'feels' that way, (cluttered) and illegible, (although when you look closer ...
I can’t un-see them anymore, now that you’ve mentioned them:
The cluttered L.U.Chopard dial, and that IWC moonphase. What about the large sweeping seconds on the IWC? Nobody has mentioned it yet, but it seems to make the watch less classy and more sporty, if you follow my drift