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Thank you for the enjoyable photo essay
I agree with your conclusions.
We can see one big advantage of having a micro rotor movement in the stable, as they can be convincingly adapted to rectangular cases. The difference between degrees of success comes down to thoughtful consideration to the design of the plates and bridges. The Patek remains legible, and the slats echo the standard Nautilus/Cubitus dial. It's logically consistent with Patek's DNA. Their logical and conservative approach to design is limiting, but reinforces their prestige and uninterrupted history.
While regulator pins would not fly at Patek, I'd still get immense enjoyment from wearing both of those BRX-3s. Despite sharing the same case shape, the BRX-3s look nothing like their solid dial brothers, demonstrating the capabilities of Bell & Ross's design team.
Side by side comparison
In my post yesterday , I said that Patek Philippe 's creation of a square caliber for the Cubitus Perpetual Calendar ref. 5840P-001 earned my respect . In the comments, several of us raised some interesting questions and doubts : Isn't the 28-28 Q SQU cal...
This is unworthy of Patek
It’s not up to what we (and they profess) hold as their standard
Dear Emmanuel, the world lost a true detective, what a miss for humanity.
my wife complains i spent too much time in form of ipod, i have no clue how you do it, but i thank you. Best, Ashot
I'm really sorry if I'm giving your wife reasons to complain about you! ;-)
Thank you, dear Ashot. Best, Emmanuel
Thanks for sharing and for the helpful visual comparisons!
Another recent release I was comparing is the new Hermes H08 skeleton ($21K) to the new Richard Mille RM 55-01 ($155K) Both based on a Vaucher caliber. ...
Beveling...
It seems like the 28-28 Q SQU is just laser cut with no attempt at beveling.
Hi Emmanuel. As always you've written a very thoughtful analysis of these several square movements.
I think the responses and conclusions can be summarized as "Square Hole but Round Peg". The basic nature of watch movement parts ie: gears, coil springs, date wheels, etc tend to be round. So the corners of a square movement are mostly not "functional" in...
Yes, I completely agree with you, Greg, and the two examples you mention
are definitely very special and creative. I guess that's the kind of creativity we would expect or at least be happy to see coming from a brand like PP. But they prefer to follow a less adventurous and less expensive path. Best, Emmanuel
So I was not completely wrong? 😊😉
I do agree with you that it’s less of a corner cutting in this way than simply using fully round movements previously and yet we know PP can do much better 😉👍🏻🤞🏻 And while you are right that square movements cannot be made completely square in utilizing t...
Absolutely, you were right, and I made this post to acknowledge it. Especially since others have also noted the connection with the 240.
I agree that PP can do much better, but they've still taken a small step in the right direction. Too small a step, perhaps, but it's still better than nothing. And quite frankly, on a purely personal note, when I compare the movements of Gerald Charles an...
Interesting debate E. Your very own 5098 has a squarish ( rectangular ) movement. Very different to the new square 28-28. . Also from a design point of view a rectangular movement is similar to a square
movement and should also be compared to the new 28-28 I am persoanlly not a fan of the cubitas in any form - but mainly from an aesthetic viewpoint - not horologically Thank you again for your insights J
Thank you, Julian.
Whether square or rectangular, non-round movements always have corners which are “empty” of components and the design work consists of shaping the bridges to make them match the angular (square or rectangular) shape. As can be seen on this beautiful litho...
Thank you for the enjoyable photo essay
I agree with your conclusions. We can see one big advantage of having a micro rotor movement in the stable, as they can be convincingly adapted to rectangular cases. The difference between degrees of success comes down to thoughtful consideration to the d...
Well, I fully agree with your conclusions too.
The Bell & Ross design team has definitely made a great job with these BR-X3. Best, Emmanuel